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Feb 12, 2013 10:58 AM

Asheville ~ Admiral ~ gets a new chef

Local news ~

This should be interesting.

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    1. I figured this was coming given Moss's new venture. Just didn't think it would be this soon. We have a reservation week after next. Will report back after.

      5 Replies
      1. re: Jeff C.

        He's been a sous chef at The Admiral for a while. We attended his Blind Pig dinner and it was fabulous! Best of luck to the young chef.

        1. re: miss piggy

          Bourdain says the best chefs are from Mexico, regardless of the cuisine. So I'm hopeful.

          1. re: miss piggy

            I have little concern about a dip in quality. Learning from Drew Maykuth, as the article referred to, isn't a bad thing, in my opinion.

          2. re: Jeff C.

            For those of us not in the know, what is Chef Moss' new venture?

          3. Ate here Saturday night, and though service (never very fast to begin with) was slow, everything else was perfect. In fact, you'd hardly know Chef Moss has departed. From the PBR mussels to the crispy sweetbreads, all the old faves are still in evidence. I did detect a bit more ethnic flair in some of the dishes--the scallop and grouper entrees we had both had different Asian sauces (Chef Maykuth influence?), one garlicky, the other more lemongrass and dill. There were also several dishes with current It vegetable kale, which I usually find bitter and tough, but the evening's kale-based soup offering was the highlight of the meal, smoky, sweet, and savory all at once. There was also a ramen noodle dish topped with 64 degree egg I'm dying to try next time. Verdict: Still the best restaurant in Asheville.

            4 Replies
            1. re: Jeff C.

              Wow, that was fast. We were there last Fri and he was still there. I didn't think he was leaving until March...

              Those friggin' mussels smell so good...i guess it's the smokey bacon, but damn, that dish is goood, and especially the final bread/sauce dipping. I had the scallop w/ a coconut broth...must have been similar to what you had. The creme brulee, this time w/ pistachio toffee, was fantastic as always.

              1. re: danna

                Actually, wife had the scallops. But she gave me a bite! Maybe it was coconut milk in the broth. Fantastic, whatever it was. Chef Candido has been sous chef for two years under both Moss and Maykuth. He'll be fine. In fact, I'm thinking they should let him do his own thing on Sundays and then work the more popular new dishes into the menu the rest of the week. Damn, I wished I had tried that ramen dish...

              2. re: Jeff C.

                That is great to hear! My only concern had been sometimes once the original chef is gone, things change, not always for the better. But sounds like that will not be the case here. I had hoped with the reputation that the Admiral has, that they would be extra vigilant about maintaining quality and creativity. Good to hear it seems to be working just fine.

                Can't wait to get back there. It's been too long for us. Although, my husband claims that the Junction gives them an awfully good run for their money. So, we alternate between the two. Damn, life is tough. lol

                1. re: Scirocco

                  We tried the Junction in the evening(we usually go at lunch) for the 1st time this past Saturday (yes, we've been on a good run for people who live in G'ville) I had the fried chicken, which was in a new "pot pie" presentation w/ root veggies, sauce ("veloute") and biscuits. Pretty damn good. Chicken quality is excellent and cooked just beautifully. We both had salads that were very nice and kinda "vertical". I the bibb, husband the endive w/ apples. Husband had the quail app for his entree, it was good. The only "clinker" if you will, were the fried oysters. Neither of us like the batter they used. Same batter that ruins the fried green tomatoes that come on the blt.

                  Between Charles at the Junction and Drew at the Admiral, it would be hard to pick the most warm, charming, and customer-focused. I don't have much trouble saying the food is superior at the Admiral, though. that's not a slam at the Junction, it's just a statement of how awesome we think Admiral is.