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Beaune: Best Cheese Course

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DaisyM Feb 5, 2013 12:15 PM

We'll be in Beaune for 5 nights and will have a car. I'm still a little overwhelmed with selecting 5 restaurants for dinner. Ma Cuisine is a definite and it sounds like Le Benaton and La Ciboulette should be included.

We love epoisses. Can you suggest the restaurant that has a really stellar cheese course? And any restaurants that shouldn't be missed in the area. Thank you so much!

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  1. sistereurope RE: DaisyM Feb 5, 2013 05:33 PM

    Hi Daisy,
    We were in Beaune last Oct. Ma Cuisine is a must. I studied the France Chow board and found recs for Le Gourmandin and the wine bar La Part des Anges, which we can recommend as well,
    We also liked Aupres du Clocher in Pommard & Le Cellier Volnaysien in Volnay (the former had an epoisses dessert and the latter had chicken in epoisses...we had so much epoisses. I am not complaining though, I could eat it every day :). We had lunch Aupres du Clocher and Volnaysein, so those nights we had a lighter dinner and especially enjoyed our pizza (which I usually never get in France) at Tavola Calda. We had a salad at Le Carnot which was also good.
    I'll try to think of where we had a stellar cheese course and let you know. Enjoy Beaune!

    1. mangeur RE: DaisyM Feb 5, 2013 05:50 PM

      Since you so appreciate epoisses, I urge you to drive to the Gaugry manufactory, perhaps the last maker of raw milk epoisses. http://www.fromageriegaugry.fr/ Located in Brochon, just off rte 123, south of Dijon.

      1 Reply
      1. re: mangeur
        sistereurope RE: mangeur Feb 5, 2013 06:16 PM

        Yes, we meant to go there as we had it on our list but never made it...please check it out for me!

      2. BlueOx RE: DaisyM Feb 5, 2013 09:16 PM

        Beat cheese course I've had in Burgundy was at La Montrachet in Puligny, both from the selection and the knowledgeable server.

        1. Melanie Wong RE: DaisyM Feb 5, 2013 11:57 PM

          You might consider just going to the Alain Hess cheese shop right there on the Place Carnot and getting a little of everything that appeals to you. When we asked the restaurants (including Lameloise in Chagny) where they purchase their cheeses, they all said Hess was their supplier. Hess carries Gaugrey's Epoisses.

          Hess was our first stop when we got into town, here's the Epoisses that we bought for snacking.
          http://www.flickr.com/photos/melaniew...

          And we bought a baguette right out of the oven around the corner.

          Maison Lameloise's cheese program doesn't try to have everything and is focused on the region. I especially liked the Epoisses that's coated in cinders. Here's the cheese cart,
          http://www.flickr.com/photos/melaniew...

          8 Replies
          1. re: Melanie Wong
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            DaisyM RE: Melanie Wong Feb 6, 2013 09:42 AM

            OMG, Melanie! I wouldn't eat anything else but that cheese!

            1. re: DaisyM
              Melanie Wong RE: DaisyM Feb 11, 2013 08:25 PM

              Well, that first day at Alain Hess we bought the Epoisses, butter, and Brie de Meaux to provision our kitchen. We started the day with brie for breakfast and ended with epoisses at night (after a cheese course at a restaurant in most cases).

              If you think I'm a fanatic, a friend in San Francisco figured out that I was in France and emailed me about her favorite cheese at Hess. She did not know the name but described it as the second from the left in the back row of aged cheeses in the display case of goat cheeses". Unsure whether I'd seen the correct one, I snapped this shot to send her,
              http://www.flickr.com/photos/melaniew...

              It was indeed in the same place as during her visit to the store. The cheese is Pouligny St Pierre.

            2. re: Melanie Wong
              Delucacheesemonger RE: Melanie Wong Feb 6, 2013 12:23 PM

              If Gaugry to difficult for you to get to, he has a booth in the covered market in Dijon that is wonderful as well.
              l only have 6 hounds in 'People l am Reading' those pictures show why you are one of them.

              1. re: Delucacheesemonger
                Melanie Wong RE: Delucacheesemonger Feb 8, 2013 10:21 AM

                I was invited to an cheese tasting paired with breads and wines of the region in Chassagne and it was very interesting to me how excited the crowd got as the cheeses were being arranged and set up for the onslaught. Most in attendance were French and in the wine trade and I figured they must do this all the time and would be more blaise.

                Here's the front and back of the hand-out
                http://www.flickr.com/photos/melaniew...
                http://www.flickr.com/photos/melaniew...

                And some photos of the breads by Banette,
                http://www.flickr.com/photos/melaniew...
                http://www.flickr.com/photos/melaniew...
                http://www.flickr.com/photos/melaniew...
                http://www.flickr.com/photos/melaniew...
                I saw this bread label again when I returned to Paris. Maybe it's some sort of parbaked loaf.

                1. re: Melanie Wong
                  Delucacheesemonger RE: Melanie Wong Feb 8, 2013 11:22 AM

                  Banette is one of the very large firms that supplies partially baked loaves then delivered to its zillions of stores and finished in house. Perhaps l am prejudiced by my huge selection of wonderful breads, but l avoid Banette at all costs.

                  1. re: Delucacheesemonger
                    Melanie Wong RE: Delucacheesemonger Feb 11, 2013 08:13 PM

                    I figured as much. But I will stick up for the pointed long loaf that is called La Banette. Perhaps baked off better at the home factory. It was the best of the five or so types I tried there, and better than any of the other breads that I was served in the Burgundy region save the incredible house-baked loaf at La Ruchotte. And you know that San Francisco and Sonoma County where I live has some of the best bread in the US, including bakers who have bested the French in competition. :-J
                    http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/859484

              2. re: Melanie Wong
                BlueOx RE: Melanie Wong Feb 9, 2013 08:05 PM

                Melanie,
                Do you think that the cheese might have been covered in ashes, not cinders?
                Phil

                1. re: BlueOx
                  Melanie Wong RE: BlueOx Feb 11, 2013 08:01 PM

                  Gosh, I couldn't tell you. Here's a closer look at the cheese on my own plate.
                  http://www.flickr.com/photos/melaniew...

                  This may be an issue of French to English translation. Since the name of the cheese is Cendre', the tendency is to translate that as "cinder" which is what the maitre d' said to me.

                  Gaugry's own website says in English, "ashes of leaves".
                  http://www.gaugryfromager.com/spip.ph...

                  Berthaut makes a similar version called l'Aisy Cendre, that is coated in oak ash, according to this source,
                  http://aisycendre.wikispaces.com/Aisy...

              3. Gman RE: DaisyM Feb 6, 2013 10:31 AM

                Yes, Gaugry is just down the road and a quick and fun visit. Alain Hess is excellent and the single best serving of Epoisses I've ever had was at Ma Cuisine... I can still conjure it....

                1 Reply
                1. re: Gman
                  d
                  DaisyM RE: Gman Feb 6, 2013 12:10 PM

                  Yes, absolutely going to Gaugry. I thought we'd go in the morning and buy cheese for a bike trip that day. Alain Hess is a definite, too. Can't wait for Ma Cuisine.

                2. r
                  roux42 RE: DaisyM Feb 9, 2013 08:24 PM

                  We were in Beaune for 4 days in October and we bought amazing cheeses at the market in the town square along with pates, cheeses, vegetables (mushrooms) and meats. We made our own cheese course and served it with wines we bought at tastings and in the markets, including the giant supermarket in the town square. We rented a house just outside of Beaune and did most of our own cooking.

                  1. h
                    HoosierFoodie RE: DaisyM Feb 10, 2013 12:31 PM

                    Had a great cheese course /epoisses at Les Jardins de Remparts a couple of years ago. Rest of the meal was great, too.

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