3 day itinerary for two vegetarians from Chicago
Hi all, I've done some research on here so far, and have come up with a general plan for my husband and I for San Francisco / Napa for a few weeks from now. There was another discussion on a similar topic, but it was a year ago so I figured I'd get more up to date info by asking. I haven't been to SF since I had disposable cash and my husband only ever goes on work, so we're generally new to the area. First time in any wine country, so a lot of the discussion went a little over my head (it assumes a certain basic orientation / knowledge that I seem to lack, even after my couple hours of searching online). We have a few gaps to fill, and a couple of overall questions... the other major detail is we are both vegetarians (no fish).
- We'll get in in time for a late lunch. We'll have a car, and are pretty open... any thoughts? Maybe food trucks?
- Afternoon we'll be wandering around and sightseeing
- Dinner at Atelier Crenn
- Breakfast in SF... is Tartine still the main recommendation?
- Drive to Napa
- We'll eat after checking in; still figuring out acommodation but will be in Napa or Yountville, so thinking about Oenotri, but open to ideas
- We want to check out a winery (or two) in the afternoon... Any recommendations? I haven't gotten a feel for how many to plan to visit in a given afternoon and whether we can/should make it up to the St. Helena area during this time. Over the day or so we're in Napa I'd like to get a decent variety and set of experiences. I like sparkling wine, we both like chardonnay, and we're generally adventurous. What are some good options to provide an introduction without being too touristy? Also, where would there still be nice scenic views at this time of year?
- Dinner at Ad Hoc
- Breakfast at Bouchon
- Wineries for the morning / early afternoon - again, need recommendations. I'd love some help just planning out these two segments (Saturday pm, Sunday am) to get a good balance at a nice pace.
- Picnic lunch we will pick up at Oxbow
- Head back to SF
- Totally open for dinner suggestions here... what would provide a nice balance and round out the different tastes for our 3rd dinner? A few things that appealed to me were Alembic, Aziza (but feels to similar to the other styles we're getting), Nopa (but too similar to Oenotri?)
- Drinks at 15 romolo or other interesting places not on my radar?
- Brunch: We want to do dim sum. There are NO options for vegetarians for dim sum in Chicago... I've wanted to do this for years! Yank Sing came up in another thread, but I just wanted to have another couple of options because it seems like it's a little overrated?
- We'll wander around for the morning
- Early afternoon lunch: Mission area, was thinking of Gracias Madre... is that still good?
And that's about it! Look forward to hearing what you all think, and thanks in advance.
For starters - and for Napa only - if you are vegetarians, than Oenetri would be a complete and total waste for you; their specialty are their meats, specifically their charcuterie platters. I would recommend, instead, Zuzu, for tapas or Tarla Grill for Turkish. Currently on their menu, Oenetri only has one pasta offering and one appetizer offering without meat. If you are looking for pasta, I would drive up-valley 10 minutes to Bistro Don Giovanni.
Secondly, you need to check in with Ad Hoc on their offerings. It is family style and a limited menu. You only get what they are preparing and often (I have heard) their vegetarian offering is less than stellar and very, very limited.
Other restaurants that have decent vegetarian options would be Angele, Goose & Gander, and Terra.
Alembic and Aziza are miles apart; Alembic is more of a bar atmosphere with fabulous drinks and interesting small bar bites. Aziza is stunning Moroccan haute cuisine food with amazing drinks. Alembic is more bar than restaurant and Aziza is more restaurant than bar.
Lastly, we have had threads in the past on vegetarian dim sum, but the search function only seems to be showing one or the other so I'm not sure how to find the best offerings of both, but if memory serves, Yank Sing is not the best...
Thanks Carrie. At Oenotri it was the pizzas that appealed to us - there is a nice looking hen of the woods mushroom and cauliflower one, as well as a number of sides that look good. Since it is for a light lunch we don't require a variety of options on the menu, just a few good ones :) But Terra and G&G also appealed to me, so I will present the options to my husband. I do think we will keep Ad Hoc for the sake of having the experience, recognizing there are other choices.
Agree that Alembic and Aziza are miles apart - I was providing those examples to show that I am open to varying ideas as long as they are different from our existing plans... that said, any other ideas that would work well? Sounds like Aziza will be a good option but would love to have a couple of things to look at.
I also found limited results in the search box for veg dim sum, which was unfortunate! I myself posted on it years ago under an old username and that didn't come up! I scrolled through the first 15 threads that came up, too. I was hoping someone would be kind enough to just throw out an idea or two here :)
Also still looking for suggestions on wineries that would be good for chardonnay and bubbly, for the new-but-adventurous first-timer, and any guidelines on how many to plan to visit in a given afternoon.
Keep your Ad Hoc reservation if you have one, but I would seriously suggest you make other reservations as well and call to find out what is on the menu before you commit.
I have known of other vegetarians leave VERY disappointed because the menu changes so often.
I'm not a Chard fan, but many like Rombauer and for bubbly, consider the tour at Schramsburg; theirs is the best cave in the valley. I also like Domaine Carneros for the view and Domaine Chandon for the pairings (which include oysters and caviar, so that may not go far for you).
Your best bet to plan a day is to play with Google maps and chart all the wineries that look good to you and see what is near each other. Schramsburg needs an appointment while Rombauer does not, but they aren't that far from one another so they could be done right after lunch, if you are dining in Yountville. If you are eating in downtown Napa, you want to find wineries that are closer to down-valley.
You might also enjoy some of the tasting rooms in downtown Napa (Backstreet or Vintner's Collective) where you can taste a wider variety of small-producers who don't have tasting rooms but are preparing great wine.
Breakfast Saturday, stop by the Ferry Plaza farmers market.
Yank Sing's the only dim sum place I know that is vegetarian-friendly. I think its ratings suffer because of its high prices but if you're ordering vegetarian it won't be expensive.
I think some of the vegetarian Chinese places have dim sum, but I haven't heard much good about any of them.
re: Robert Lauriston
Yank Sing it is. I've only had veg dim sum once in my life (in Sydney) so I will only have one point of comparison anyway.
Ferry Plaza farmers market is a good idea! There is a chance we have to move Yank Sing to Saturday to accommodate our friends' schedule... in case we do, we will have the "open" breakfast spot in our schedule on Monday when the market is closed. Any thoughts then?
Try and get your friend to meet you at the Ferry Market on a Saturday; it is *quite* the thing to do in the city. Then, if you are still hungry, it is a very short walk to Yank Sing and since the number of vegetarian dim sum will be fairly limited, you could finish out your visit there.
We've been going to Yank Sing over the years and have always enjoyed their vegetarian dim sum. If you don't see much coming around in the carts, they do have a menu from which you can order.
As for Oenotri in Napa, I agree with Carrie that they don't have much to offer for vegetarians. We were there over the holidays & kids ordered a pizza. While flavorful, crust was soggy. If you go to Bistro Don Giovanni, I recommend you skip the pizza there too.
Exploring the Mission...friend went to Gracias Madre just a few months ago & loved it. Rosamunde Sausage Grill is fantastic and their veg. offerings may be equally good; however, we have not tried them.
re: Robert Lauriston
I'll chime in that we were pretty blown away by the veg friendly options we've tried on our (sadly only two so far) lunches at Cotogna -- I believe for example that both outstanding sformatas we had would be suitable for the OP, not to mention the gnocchi and pizza though they might not always be veg friendly. Highly recommended by this twice-a-year tourist. And it sounds like per ceekscat they accommodate vegheads at the Sunday supper which I'm dying to try.
Ad Hoc seems like a strange choice given how often it gets big thumbs down from vegetarians.
A few weeks from now it might be a bit too cold, wet, and/or windy for a picnic (you never know that time of year) so best to have a backup plan.
For your SF dinner selection you might want to consider Millenium, or possibly Amber India if you like high-end Indian cuisine.
For drinks Alembic is a good choice as is Bourbon & Branch.
Thanks for all the great suggestions so far. We are going to book at Terra as well and call ahead to find out what's for dinner. We'll have breakfast where we're staying, and are planning to do a combination of a pastry from Bouchon and cheese pairings as lunch :) Very healthy. Also, planning stops at the aforementioned wineries as well as Frog's Leap, Far Niente, and Goose Cross (though not in that order).
A few final questions...
For dinner, we like Aziza (and Cotogna but it will be a Sunday and not sure about Sunday Supper), but wondering what thoughts are on Chapeau? I'm intrigued by a vegetarian French prix fixe menu.
What should we eat at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market?
Is Gracias Madre the best choice for Mexican for lunch?