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LaBan on Fork: "four-bell potential"

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Craig LaBan reviews the Eli Kulp version of Fork:



Sounds seriously good, especially that Peking Duck "feast".

I've never been, but will have to put it near the top of my 2-do list for 2013...

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  1. Yes. I haven't been since the early days. Have to try it.

    1. I tried it right after they reopened with Kulp as chef, I thought I posted about it but I can't find it now, maybe I never did. Anyway, it was excellent, we did the "house menu" tasting menu thing and loved almost everything. Even the bread was great. Some standouts were the guinea hen, the burnt grain pappardelle (though by the end of the plate the "burnt" character was starting to overtake the dish), and the surf clam. We were a little sad when we heard that Terence Feury was leaving Fork, I always really like his food there, but after our first meal under Eli Kulp I think Fork actually made a big step up. Reading Laban's review makes me really want to go back.

      1. I haven't been since Feury left, but that short rib dinner sounds ridiculous. Will have to return soon!

        1. Went to Fork this blustery Saturday night and had a wonderful time!

          First off, the service and ambiance is very pleasant and warm while maintaining an urban, chic vibe.

          I did a la carte, since my DP did not want to go big with the degustation menu.

          The oysters were especially tasty with their shallot, vinaigrette dressing and a touch of oil. Next up I had their standout "Roots" salad, which was outstanding an I'm a salad guy. The Beets with oyster sauce sounds strange but was another excellent dish. I topped this off with the octopus, which was good and I liked the crispy potatoes, but it was not as tender as the octopus I had at Kanella about two weeks ago. The cheese plate was respectable with five different types of cheese (two goat, one cow brie, one hard cheese, and one blue), but it was heavy Vermont based and not quite as worldly as I would have liked.

          One special note was the bread was out of this world. I try to hold off on bread to not spoil the main courses, but here I got the sense they take their bread seriously and it showed.

          3 Replies
          1. re: dndicicco

            How many other restaurants have a tasting of breads as part of their tasting menu?

            Loved Fork both times I've been. The duck feast is as good as LaBan said it would be.

            1. re: dndicicco

              The bread there is indeed great, if you want to take some home they sell it to go at their space next door to Fork, High Street on Market.

              My only disappointment in my two meals at Fork has been dessert, a big step down in quality from the rest of the meal. I haven't been in a while though. Laban specifically called out dessert in his review as one thing holding them back from 4 bells so I'm hopeful they'll make some changes in that department.

              1. re: Buckethead

                I can't actually remember the desserts, so that probably says something.