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Jan 3, 2013 07:57 PM

The Marrow: yet another winner for Dieterle

We had been looking forward to try out Harold Dieterle's new restaurant The Marrow since we heard of its impending opening. As our reservation drew nearer, I had the anxiety that perhaps it would not live up to its sister restaurants, which I think are among the more underrated restaurants in the city. Luckily, we were not disappointed!
Starting off, we had an excellent server who was well versed in the menu, and able to explain all the components of the various dishes very well. (Normally would be expected out of this caliber of restaurant, but we were prepared for the potential for 1st month hiccups. Luckily we had none of that) We also had good service from the sommelier, who was able to direct us towards an appropriate wine for our entrees without being overly pushy.
I started with an appetizer of the herring salad with roasted beets, while the others in my party opted for the lamb ribs and the hand-cut fettucini with pork sausage. Once we each tasted our dishes we tended to hoard them for ourselves, but I did taste the lamb ribs which were nicely prepared. The herring salad came with arugula, and provided a nice contrast of flavors; only downside was that the horseradish cream on the side did not have quite as much punch as it could have. But if it had not even been included, I would have had no complaints.
As re entrees, I opted for the lambs neck. For those who have never had it, I would describe it as tasting like a lamb version of short ribs. It was very tender, left on the bone and fork-tender. The meatiness/fattiness was nicely contrasted with the sharp acidity of red sauerkraut, while a rutabega puree beneath provided earthy undertones. As per Dieterle's usual style, everything was very evenly balanced. The others in my party had duck schnitzel and the beef braciole. I neglected to try either one as I was too focused on denuding my lambs neck of all morsels of meat, but the duck schnitzel got high marks, in particular the spaetzle, which was prepared with hazelnuts as a twist. We were unfortunately too full for dessert, but we did get an amuse at the end of apple strudel, which was a nice single bite to end the meal.
The atmosphere was very pleasant, with a hint of rustic casual but very polished nonetheless. I would put it in between Perilla and Kin Shop as re formality, though closer to Perilla. Service from all staff was attentive but not overly aggressive. While it certainly had the buzz of conversation, we had no problems hearing each other; tables were reasonably spaced.
In all, we thoroughly enjoyed the meal, especially at the price point. I continue to think that Harold Dieterle is a master of combining flavor combinations that work well together and keeping everything in balance, while not doing anything too out of the box (good for taking folks that aren't too adventurous!) Look forward to seeing what he continues to do.

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  1. Thanks so much for reporting. I've been planning to try it and am really looking forward to it.

    1. Thanks for your report! Heading there tomorrow night and I'm getting excited!

      1 Reply
      1. re: mla19

        Had a great meal here Saturday night. Everything we ordered was delicious but particular stand-outs for us were the duck schnitzel, steak entree (side of cauliflower gratin was to die for), the much talked-about bone marrow with sea urchin, the gnudi and the apple hand pie. I'd only been to Kin Shop and Perilla once each but I preferred the Marrow to my visit to both of his other restaurants.

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        1. How were the portion sizes? Could you make an entree out of one of the pasta dishes? I'm having dinner there tomorrow night and have to admit that the prices are giving me a little pause.

          2 Replies
          1. re: kdgchow

            Sorry, assume I am too late for you, but for others' information, I don't think that one could make a pasta an entree purely on its own. Size-wise, it'd be on the larger end of the spectrum of a typical "primo piatto." For anyone who is more cost-conscious, the duck schnitzel is a good pick; one of the larger entrees, and it seems to be one of their standout dishes.

            1. re: orthorunner

              Ended up getting the lamb neck as a main, which was very good, reminded me of lamb shank more than short ribs. I wouldn't say it was a huge portion, but it wasn't dainty, either.

              Most of the meat plates and mains I saw were of medium to large size - the bone marrow app, duck schnitzel and baby chicken mains looked particularly large.

              While I wouldn't go here often - I'm just too frugal a diner - I definitely felt I got value for my money.

          2. Baccala gnudi, braised brisket with polenta, and chocolate budino were all quite good. The room is attractive with large windows and the service was excellent. I plan to return for the duck schnitzel.