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Harters Dec 19, 2012 08:55 AM

[London, E1] Cafe Spice Namaste

We’d probably never have picked this place had it not been for its appearance on a recent episode of Masterchef. There just seemed to something of an elegance to the food. So, perhaps some proof that good PR works wonders – if it can pull in a couple of punters from 200 miles away, what must it have done for local business.

So, we’d booked ages ago. And, in that, lies my only gripe with the restaurant. I have this hope with places that, if you’ve been arsed enough to make a commitment weeks ago, then they should be arsed enough to give you a decent table. But, so often they don’t. Now, it wasn’t the worst table in the room – the one next to the gents’ bogs. But it was second worst – tucked away in a corner, next to the coat racks and the waiters’ station. Whinge ends.......

Food was damn good. The menu makes a big thing of the fact that the chef is a Parsee and, as such, Parsee dishes are prepared “properly”. So, it seemed to me that was what I should order. A starter of king prawns patia was excellent. Several delicious and perfectly cooked prawns in a thick, well spiced sauce – sweet from jaggery and a background sharpness from tamarind. The only incongruous item here was the slices of toasted ciabatta but, even then, it actually seemed to work.

I followed this with lamb dhaansaak – good tender lamb and a balanced sauce with no spice jarring or masking the overall flavour of the dish. It comes, apparently traditionally, with an onion salad and brown onion rice. I enjoyed this a lot.

The menu is light on vegetarian options which is the direction my partner often goes in at Indian restaurants. So, she was quite chuffed to see a thali on offer. There was a dish of okra – punchy with chilli and a good texture with some bite in the vegetables; a comforting daal; some beetroot and a saag aloo. All pretty good (I managed to get a taste). There was an outstandingly good beetroot samosa – full of flavour, well spiced and not a hint of oiliness from the frying – I tried to get a taste of this as well, but no bloody chance. For the accompaniments – naan, rice, a handful of mini-pappads and a fairly straightforward raita. All in all, a thoroughly enjoyable tray of food.

We often pass on desserts, particularly in asian restaurants but thought we’d have a try at the kulfi. I went with a selection of mini-versions – rose, vanilla, pistachio, chocolate and another I can’t recall, while herself went with the full-sized version of the pistachio. It’ll be fair to say that I enjoyed this more than she did but, then, I think I often have the sweeter tooth.

Such a shame this place isn’t 200 miles north. We’d be regulars.

  1. klyeoh Dec 20, 2012 07:16 AM

    Oh my, you're making me miss London's dining scene so much! I'd been wanting to go back to Cafe Spice Namaste for ages! Last time i was there must ave been the late 90s.

    1. l
      Lord Brazing Dec 20, 2012 07:13 AM

      Shame you couldn't manage a pudding Harters. The last time I was there I had a nice rose kulfi.

      1 Reply
      1. re: Lord Brazing
        h
        Harters Dec 20, 2012 08:38 AM

        Erm, but we did have pud, m'Lord.

        I enjoyed the five mini-kulfi very much

      2. zuriga1 Dec 20, 2012 03:12 AM

        I had a feeling you would enjoy this meal. It looks very worth trying after that TV appearance. My husband always orders a dhansak, so we'll try to get there before too long.Thanks for all your reports!

        1. Kavey Dec 19, 2012 03:14 PM

          Keep meaning to visit, still haven't. Have met Todiwala at food festivals few times, very gregarious indeed. And he knows family friend of my parents, also parsee, she has shared some of her recipes on my mum's recipe website (Mamta's Kitchen). Given how I love her food, I want to try his...

          4 Replies
          1. re: Kavey
            h
            Harters Dec 19, 2012 03:30 PM

            Cyrus seems to be one of those chefs who pop out into the restaurant for a chat with folk. Nice guy.

            His wife (?) runs front of house and is also chatty. She'd noted that I had ordered the dhaansaak and came over to ask how I'd found it. Clearly very proud of their version.

            1. re: Harters
              Kavey Dec 20, 2012 01:03 AM

              Found this article very interesting, giving a background on the struggled and achievements of the Todiwalas:

              http://www.caterersearch.com/Articles...

              1. re: Kavey
                h
                Harters Dec 20, 2012 01:55 AM

                Fascinating story - thanks for the link.

                Caterersearch.com is always a good source of industry gossip and the like.

                1. re: Harters
                  Kavey Dec 20, 2012 02:11 AM

                  I started on Wiki and found the reference to being deemed unreliable and unwelcome by the Home Office, it had a link to the caterersearch page for more information. Caterersearch often source of helpful back info on chefs and restaus, yeah.

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