Rome: Perilli or Felice?
Perilli or Felice are constantly mentioned as among the best in Testaccio, with respect to the old school cooking traditions of this area in Rome. I ate last 10 Feb. at Perilli for dinner ("lunch" to you Yankees), with a good carbonara -- although I have just read a review from someone with a different experience. I've yet to go to Felice. Which place is the better? All'y'all's reviews welcome.
I know already that in this part of Rome for fine dining Checchino dal 1887 comes recommendable. Close to eight years ago I had wonderful carbonara and coratella at Trattoria Da “Oio” a Casa Mia Via Galvani, 43-45. Any of y'all been there recently? Other recommendations for the Testaccio tradition I'd welcome.
Perilli wins my vote, hands down, every time. I think their carbonara is one of the best in the city. The atmosphere is truly authentic, and all of their Roman classics spot on.
I find Felice has gotten a bit full of itself. The service is a bit snooty, and they've raised their prices too.
I don't think I've been to Da Oio a Casa Mia for at least 8 years either! It did used to be good, but I haven't heard much from anyone about it recently.
As Jen mentions, there is also Flavio, which I like too. But I prefer Perilli.
I agree with the Liz's "snooty" assessment. IMHO, Felice was far better when the crazy old man ran the place and cooked whatever he damn well pleased for lunch and dinner. And the results were pretty good.
Others enjoy the new digs (NY Times lavished bizarre praise several years ago) but it leaves me cold. Perilli is definitely old school Rome.
Sid, perhaps sidestepping your enquiry, you might like a newer restaurant in the neighborhood, Flavio al Velavevodetto - ample portions and very tasty Roman dishes, friendly wine service - we liked this one a lot. built into the base of Monte Testaccio, you can see the layered amphorae in the mound through a window in the back wall. Close to the English Cemetery (cool place) and the adjoining Pyramid of Cestius, as well as the new Testaccio market.