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One dinner, two lunches in Paris next week

So, I just found out that we're popping over to Paris on Monday from London on the Eurostar. I've been to Paris many times, but not recently - I can barely remember where things are, embarrassingly!

We will arrive too late on Monday for dinner I think (probably around 10-11pm). Our hotel is in the 9th, near Place de Clichy. Perhaps we'll head out to a wine bar if we're not too tired.

I really don't want to stress this too much - there are tons of great places to eat in Paris, and (quelle horreur) it's not ALL about the food. There are some other things I want to do as well, like visit the Musee d'Orsay, which I last saw when I was seventeen, and generally wonder about taking in the beauty of the city.

But it's Paris, and you need to make reservations so here's my plan so far.

Tuesday lunch - I can't eat two rich French meals in one day any more so would like something lightish. Was thinking of heading down to Les Papilles, so we can wonder up to the Musee d'Orsay from there. Otherwise, Pirouette in Les Halles is on my radar, or Le Terroir Parisien.

Tuesday dinner - am thinking about La Table D'Eugene or Saturne. My preference is for a cozy neighbourhoood bistro - nothing too fancy (although I would like to dress up a little. Never knowingly underdressed, and all that. I should have been a Parisienne). I would prefer modern French, nothing excessively rich. La Pantruche also an option. I thought about L'Abri, but it doesn't look particularly cozy. Also Mr GG is a bit less adventurous than me, although he can surprise me.

Wednesday lunch - the only reservation I have made so far! Le Septime.

Sadly we will then head home on the Eurostar. So many great restaurants, so little time!

I'd appreciate any feedback or suggestions. If it helps, I speak fluent French and visit France regularly - just not Paris for some reason! Oh, and if you could fix the weather - that would be great too....

(I'd also appreciate recs for a great cheese shop near Le Septime. I really want to get some Tomme Aux Raisins, which is possible to find in London at this time of year, but a trek across town and eye-wateringly expensive.)

Thanks in advance.

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  1. As far as I'm concerned you have an embarassment of riches facing you, not a clinker/clunker on the list. L'Abri is plenty cosy, not sure what you seek in "cosy."
    One thing arriving late nr the Place de Clichy is that places like Wepler & Charlot King of Coquillages stay open late; midnight-midnight and a half and are never closed.

    4 Replies
    1. re: John Talbott

      Not sure I'd call Abri "cosy", those tables next to the wall are damn right claustrophobic- prefer the front or back of house by all means !

      1. re: adrian

        "cosy."
        OK, my friend, what's your and greedygirl's operative definition of "cosy"?
        Chez L'Ami Jean is so "cosy" you knock over your neighbor's glass - "cosy?": Gagnaire is never "cosy," if one thinks of warm; Tete Dans Les olives, plenty "cosy"; I don't know if I've ever used the word before so I'm useless as usual.
        If I want "cosy" I guess I turn up the heat at home and kick back; but in a Paris resto?

        1. re: John Talbott

          I can only talk about London restaurants, really, but what I don't want is that pared-down, industrial chic that is so fashionable these days. I like an intimate restaurant with a warm, welcoming atmosphere and sympathetic lighting. Andrew Edmunds in Soho is a good example.

          1. re: John Talbott

            It's cozy I guess if you don't have a table bordering the wall.

      2. That is a few blocks from my flat and l wish there was even a decent let alone great cheese shop near me. l still schlep over to the left bank for mine. The cheese you want comes in two styles; Depending on the raisins. If you can get the larger ones, generally from Chile they are a lot better.

        6 Replies
        1. re: Delucacheesemonger

          Where do you get your cheese from, if you don't mind me asking? We'll be going to the Left Bank at some point.

            1. re: Nancy S.

              And conveniently close to Le Terroir Parisien! I think Tuesday lunch is sorted.

              1. re: greedygirl

                Make sure to buy a nice piece of vieux Comte -- the best in Paris (not counting Bernard Antony, which, sadly, is not available in any shop). While your there, though, stock up on Bordier butter and the amazing crème fraîche.

                1. re: Nancy S.

                  Not sure how many dairy products I can realistically buy, given I'll be on my way to the Musee D'Orsay, but I will do my best! I think I can buy Bordier butter in London actually.

              2. re: Nancy S.

                Amen. Dubois never disappoints. Brought home a Camembert stuffed with Apples and Calvados. We had it for Thanksgiving. :)