Suzuran - ramen at great length (width ?)
- Rio Yeti Nov 26, 2012 01:47 AM
As advised in this board, I had the Buta Kakuni (marinated and braised pork belly) with Tsuke soba (extra large noodles), served Tsukemen style.
The fresh pasta (almost as large as lasagna) were divine. I don't know if the Order of Gastronomy Professional's Ethics allows the term al dente to be used for a Japanese dish, but there is no other word to describe the extreme precision to which those noodles were cooked, giving them a smooth and caressing texture with a bite that would make an Italian blush.
The pork was served cold, like the pasta, and I have to admit I was a bit destabilized by this choice. However the way it disappeared in the mouth leaving taste-bud euphoria behind, excused its chilly disposition.
The broth was spicy and a vibrant, perfect counterpoint to the gentleness of the noodles.
I didn't taste the "classic ramens" at Suzuran, but I don't doubt for a second that they are excellent. This tsukemen (albeit more expensive) is the most refined ramen I had. Nonetheless it kept it's rustic essence in simple and friendly surroundings, and of course the sweet sound of noodle slurping.
For pictures of the meal (and a french review) : http://www.chezfood.com/2012/11/16/su...