London - Mod-British at Hix on Brewer Street, Soho
Dinner last night:
- Moyallon pork crackling with crab apple sauce – the crackling was a bit thick and hard. Personally I didn’t think much-too-sour crab apple sauce went too well with the crackling … apple sauce, maybe.
- Whipped beets with goat's curds & walnut – I love beets, but the pureed form is stretching it a bit. The goat’s curds added a nice, astringent bite, whilst the walnuts provided some welcome crunch. Tasty crusty bread on the side.
- Pot roast Swainson House Farm chicken with sprout tops, bacon & walnuts – well-cooked chicken, with thick, unctuous and intensely-flavoured sauce. Chicken-meat itself wasn't as tasty as I'd expected.
- Cox's apple pie with custard – loved the short-crust pastry, not so much the apple filling which did not have my preferred cinnamon scent but something else unfamiliar.
Dishes were inventive, but not spectacular. Efficient service, noisy dining crowd as the evening wore on. Not cheap.
66-70 Brewer Street
London W1F 9UP
Tel: 020 7292 3518
Make jam out of them!
On one of my visits to Beijing many years ago, I visited the home of Soong Ching-ling, also known as Madame Sun Yat-Sen (1890-1981), late widow of the founder of modern China. Her villa was preserved as a national heritage site by the Communist Government. What struck me then were 2 large crab apple trees in one of the courtyards in the villa - the tour guide mentioned to us that Madame Sun never failed to make crab apple jam each season, and would give away jars of her jam to visiting foreign dignitaries who visited her.