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Nov 9, 2012 05:46 PM

Favourite trattoria in Emilia-Romagna?

Ciao Chowhounders!

What's your favourite trattoria in Emilia-Romagna and, if you could transport yourself there in late spring/early summer, what would you be ordering?

We'll be making two, two night visits to the region - en route to and from Firezne - in May and June next year. Keen to winkle out your secrets...

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  1. Da Ivan, La Buca, La Mariella, Da Amerigo.

    1 Reply
    1. re: allende

      Thanks, allende. Four days, four places to eat - perfect!

    2. The E-R region encompasses a lot of territory. Can you tell us what cities you will be in?

      3 Replies
      1. re: ttoommyy

        We'll likely visit Parma and Bologna - but no real fixed ideas. Staying near Reggio Emilia...

        1. re: DexterDog

          My favorite trattoria in Parma is Trattoria del Tribunale. I've never been to Italy in the spring or summer (my partner and I are fall/winter people) so I cannot suggest any spring/early summer dishes to you. I will say that their pastas and salumi are top notch, but one would expect that from a trattoria in Parma.

          1. re: DexterDog

            @ DexterDog
            If you're staying in Reggio Emilia, all four of the trattorie I mentioned above are easy to get to.


          Cadauno is a wonderful ristorante in Centro Reggio Emilia; on via Squadroni

          3 Replies
          1. re: Longing for Italy


            We very recently tried two of allende's four recommendations to you: Da Ivan and La Buca. They were spectacularly good. Our lunch at La Buca was one of the simplest, almost humble, yet one of the very best of many memorable meals over a two-week period of food-focused travel through Piemonte and Emilia Romagna. The dinner at Da Ivan was also great, and the wine list even better. At both these places, it is very interesting to make a point of seeing the cantina.

            I seem to recall from one of your posts that you are also from Sydney. They will be thrilled to know that: at these two places, outs was the only non-Italian table; and though they get some American tourists, visitors from Sydney generated animated conversation.

            It sounded like you already have a place fixed in Reggio Emilia; if you have a spare night in the area, I highly recommend staying a night at Da Ivan's. The place is merely comfortable; what is extraordinary and unforgettable is the warmth and vitality of Ivan as the host.

            We felt we hadn't kept enough time to explore Parma --- architecturally, an inexhaustible city. By way of food, the kilo of 78-month aged Parmigiano Reggiano that we bought at Gastronomia Garibaldi to bring back was probably the best food purchase we have ever made to bring home.
            (We plan to confront the owner of Formaggi Ocello, the fine Italian cheesemonger in Sydney, why he doesn't bring Parmigiano like that!)

            1. re: jihba

              Thanks all for the suggestions. I'm starting to regret that we only have 4 days in E-R.

              jihba - Thanks for the tip about Da Ivan. While we normally stay in B&Bs/agriturismos, we have a hotel reservation for our stays in E-R and that can be modified. How long did you give yourself in Parma? I've only allowed a day in Parma and a day in Bologna (on our way back from Firenze).

              Thanks also for the tip about bringing back the Parmigiano Reggiano. You didn't have any problems with customs?

              I know what you mean when you say the people will be thrilled to hear we're from Sydney. When we were last in Italy, I was surprised and touched by how pleased people were when they found out we were Australian. Typical comments were: "So far!" and "Aahhh. Kangaroo! Kangaroo!"

              1. re: DexterDog

                You can arrange a free tour of a Parm Reg maker through the Parm Reg consortium. you must book in advance. Here is the site, finding the list of tastings on the site is a challenge, but it is there, somewhere I promise. You have to email each area individually (start with the ones closest to you). Some required a minimum number others did not. We were on a private tour, just the 2 of us.

          2. All of the places mentioned are wonderful, but absolutely do not miss Ai Due Platani just outside of Parma. Everything is incredible but the tortellini are among the best I've had in E-R --or anywhere, for that matter (and I've tried plenty over the course of several trips to this region). They are closed on Monday and Tuesday and to avoid disappointment make sure and reserve.

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