Paris, day four.
for mi querida esposa's petit dejeuner, walked down to Beillevaire for fresh yoghurt. got a small tub that was filled to order out of a big bucket. dense, mild, ambrosial. visited the Boulangerie Murciano, 14 Rue des Rosiers, reknown for strudels. a large selection of various mittel-europisch looking simple cakes and strudels in a tiny shop. the two my spouse selected, both excellent,
for the 'hounds looking for a decent caviste, Caves du Marais, 62 Rue Francois Miron, a couple of blocks east of Hotel de Ville, lived up to A.Ayscough's praise. there's no room in the shop at all to walk about. he has two of the last pouilly fumes that Dagenau pere (his son has continued) made, the '06 Pursang and Silex, Dauvissat Chablis, the regular and premier crus, and Charmette Beaujolais (14-16 € depending on tHe cru.
picked up three different kouignettes from Larnicol, enjoyed the pistachio the most ; much more like a confection than the version made back in Emeryville .
for the afternoon, took a break from the traffic and shops with a stroll through the greenery and cascades of Parc Buttes Chaumont, ending up at the boulangerie Mauclerc on Rue Crimee. shared a piece of an outstanding apricot tarte filled with a pistachio paste. ended up with around 25€ worth of bread and pastry, including a chocolate brioche about 3 in. high x 5 in diameter. similar to a pain du chocolate yet more interesting texturally with the chunks of chocolate distributed through the spiralled layers of pastry. the tradtional pain came in lumpy, nonuniform loaves, scorched in spots like a good wood fired pizza (their wood fired oven quite nice to look at, as is the tiled interior of the shop).
after a little more sightseeing (the elaborate interior of the church of St.Vincent de Paul and the pleasantly landscaped grounds in front of it), walked across two bridges to dinner with a stop at Laurent Dubois' shop en route. got three more cheeses to try. the produce stand next door had some great looking mushrooms that looked like they were still growing in the woods.
defying probability, in a very different setting our dinner at Terroir Parisien equalled the ones we enjoyed at Pirouette and le Grand Pan. the dishes combined the gutsy earthiness of le G.P. with the elegant presentation at Pirouette. for fans of fresh, handmade sausage like us, Alleno's remake of headcheese into a hot dog is simply a tour de force ; the sauce gribiche in a squeeze bottle a dream dressing for any sausage, the lightly crisped baguette an equally ideal bun. my spouse's entree of onion soup was a purist's, home remedy interpretation, light on the cheese and crouton and relying on a translucent broth and sweet onion. my entree was thin slices of terrined pig's snout with a mustard vinaigrette. the fresh parsley in the dressing was exemplary, and the terrine was delicate rather than unctuous or fatty.
perfection in the fresh herbs was reprised in my spouse's main plat of pollack, a stack of nearly two inch thick chunks of filet heaped over a salad of wilted spinach with an herbed butter sauce. my main, lightly breaded ris de veau covered in a caper sauce, the potato puree with it was equally tasty with either the gland or the fish, its potato-ness not smothered by the butter and cream within it, and a side of sauteed spinach with mushrooms emphasized how flavorful he produce was in their pantry.
their wine list is well organized for the consumer into price levels, but overall Pirouette probably has more interesting stuff at better value -- the Haut Cotes de Beaune Bourgogne 'ordinaire' not up to the A.Gros Cotes du Nuits we had the night before. service at Terroir Parisien was faultless, but the more favorable staff to client ratio at Pirouette saved them from the rushing about that the servers at TP had to sustain.