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Fusebox (Oakland)

h
hyperbowler Oct 13, 2012 06:55 PM

To my delight, Fusebox is finally offering Saturday lunch hours in addition to their current W-F lunch schedule.

http://fuseboxoakland.com

The Korean Fried Chicken wings are very different from the batter and sauce heavy places in Oakland. The skin here is thin, crispy, and brittle. The wings are fried once, not twice, and apparently the chef applies the sauce on with a paint brush to keep the skin from going limp. The chicken is very white, likely brined or marinated, and the meat juicy and flavorful. The quality of the meat is high, and I'd rank it on par with what you can get at Wings Wings. Not sure what they use in their sauce, but at the risk of saying something very ignorant, it resembles more what I've had at Japanese than Korean restaurants.

The Busan sandwich was pretty good, and well matched to its bread. It could use some more veggies. It consists of pork belly savoy cabbage & pickled white zucchini. It was served with house a small pickled carrot and watermelon radish.

On their specials today, for a dollar each, they had grilled eggplant in a butter miso glaze and grilled king oyster mushroom in a butter miso glaze. The glaze paired better with the mushroom.

I really like that they have, mostly on the daily specials menu, lots of $1 or $1.50 grilled small bites. The portion sizes are of course tiny for that price, but it gives you an opportunity to eat a wide variety of items without breaking the bank, something you certainly can't get at any Izakaya place in the Bay Area.

The neighborhood is mostly warehouse space, so I'd be curious to see if they ever have dinner there.

  1. s
    shanghaikid Oct 13, 2012 09:19 PM

    tried Fusebox around their grand opening.(may)
    -the wings then were on the dry end
    -like the "oyster" (thigh) skewer the best.
    -portion for kalbi (10) small and pricey.
    -seating very tight and uncomfortable.

    as for dinner, i wouldn't go nights. safety concerns.

    1. g
      greymalkin Oct 15, 2012 01:14 AM

      Wow thanks hyperbowler! I've been wanting to try them but couldn't make it there for a lunch W-F. I appreciate the tip.

      5 Replies
      1. re: greymalkin
        g
        greymalkin Jan 30, 2013 01:23 AM

        I have wanted to go here since this thread started and finally was able to make it there for a Sat lunch with my DH. We really enjoyed it! Definitely going back.

        I ordered the porkbelly bap set (porkbelly and rice), DH ordered the dak jjim (winter chicken stew) special, and we ordered all of the daily skewers (brussels sprouts, green bean, mushroom, marble potatoes, shishito peppers, and a skewer "trio" of chicken tender, thigh and knuckle).

        The porkbelly was great- brushed with gochujang (but not too spicy), grilled until tender, very delicious. DH loved his dak jjim, with its salty but deeply flavored and rich miso-like broth. It was perfect comfort food on the cold crisp day we were there.

        The skewers were also very good. Most were brushed with a sweetish miso-dengaku glaze. The shishito peppers and chicken were the only ones brushed with tare sauce (on the less sweet side, like a teriyaki-sauce). I loved the knuckle and ordered another skewer of just knuckle. This apparently delighted both our server and the co-owner because knuckle is not usually popular but they both love it as much as I do. Our favorite veggie skewer was the green beans- cooked to a perfect tender-crisp and nicely seasoned with the miso. As mentioned in other reviews, the skewers are very tiny. Each little nugget was maybe the size of a quarter at most and some were smaller. Each one was only $1.50 and ordering by the single skewer allowed for trying a bit of everything, which I love.

        The banchan were also well done and nicely varied. Half were prepared in a sweet-sour japanese-style (like takuan, the bright yellow pickle you can often get at Japanese restaurants). They prepared some bokchoi stems, radish, sprouted mung beans, and shiso/perilla that way. I have never had shiso sweet-pickled (usually just salty-sour with ume), but it was really tasty. The herb-y licorice flavor worked nicely with the sweet-sour flavor. They also made several more familiar gochugaru/gochujang kimchis, one with radish tops that was actually fairly spicy, a lovely cucumber one, and a lightly fermented napa cabbage one. All the kimchis were fairly spicy but not scorchingly so.

        In general the spice level was quite low, but the flavors were still very good and probably perfect for a Korean food newbie.

        I want to try their beignets (made with riceflour) and their sandwiches next.

        Lunch was two "entrees", 7 skewers and 2 sodas. $48 including tip. We arrived starving and ended up very full, but not unpleasantly stuffed.

        1. re: greymalkin
          Robert Lauriston Jan 30, 2013 08:15 AM

          The knuckle is so unpopular that on one visit it sold out before I could get any, just like at Ippuku.

          1. re: Robert Lauriston
            g
            greymalkin Jan 30, 2013 10:31 PM

            That's so sad! I hope they had them on the other visits. They said that the chef keeps wanting to take the knuckle off the menu but they won't let him because it's their favorite. I'm glad they fight for it.

            I love the knuckle at Ippuku also (that and almost everything else on their menu).

            1. re: Robert Lauriston
              drewskiSF Jan 30, 2013 10:41 PM

              Could be they just don't stock that much to match the low demand.

              1. re: drewskiSF
                Robert Lauriston Jan 31, 2013 08:34 AM

                Maybe the chef wants to take them off the menu so he can eat them himself.

        2. ...tm... Oct 15, 2012 03:38 PM

          I stopped by a couple months ago. The grilled skewers are indeed small, even for the price, but it is nice to be able to try a large variety as a single diner especially.
          The bacon mochi weren't my favorite (but that's not a fair assessment, as I'm not generally a fan of mochi) but they paired well with the mustard sauce. I also liked the chicken oyster the best of the skewers I tried.
          I really enjoyed the wings, mostly for there shatteringly crisp crust, but also the sauce. Though I was expecting spicier, I found the flavor to be well balanced. I remember reading an article when they were preparing to open that they were making their own gojuchang, so that is likely a big difference in the sauce from most places.

           
           
          2 Replies
          1. re: ...tm...
            drewskiSF Oct 16, 2012 10:56 PM

            I really liked the wings I had a few weeks after they opened. Very moist flesh though no discernible heat at all.

            I'd be surprised if there was any gochujang in the sauce .

            As others have said the skin is shatteringly crisp. Little to no breading is more authentic KFC. I think i remember OB as using much less than they currently do.

            1. re: drewskiSF
              h
              hyperbowler Oct 17, 2012 05:46 AM

              Yeah, the sauce didn't taste anything like gochujang to me and wasn't remotely hot. It had more of a salty umami taste.

          2. Robert Lauriston Nov 17, 2012 04:19 PM

            Finally managed to get there today. Fantastic.

            Aged soju ($4 a shot) was fantastic, the oak aging made it taste somewhere between whiskey and Dutch genever. Also tried a yuzu sour made with the same stuff ($7), dry and refreshing. Town Lager ($6.50 / pint) was a good substitute for Hite or OB.

            Bacon mochi ($2.50) was a bit bland but delicious with the house-made mustard.

            Chicken knuckles skewer was meaty with just a little soft cartilage. I'm blanking on the other skewer or two we got.

            Deep-fried tofu with tare no moto dashi ($4), wow.

            Pork belly "bap set" ($11) was grilled belly, a bowl of rice, and banchan including the fabulous green beans in jang.

            Lubbock banh mi ($8.50?) had steak and Asian-ish cole slaw on an Acme ciabatta roll, great.

            Beignets with honey cream were surprisingly chewy, I forgot to ask if they had mochi in them.

            That was plenty of food for two. Total with a pint of beerm two sojus, and a corn tea was $52. Good value for the quality. Cash or checks only.

            Somebody should open a place like this downtown near BART.

             
            1. Robert Lauriston Dec 8, 2012 10:56 AM

              Dinner service starts tonight. Saturdays only, 5:30-9.

              Report on their fried chicken: http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/5162...

              1. s
                sundeck sue Feb 8, 2013 04:25 PM

                At there today for the first time. A delight. Had the po-boy sandwich, which was, as sandwiches go, nearly perfect. Popcorn chicken, lovely sauce, red cabbage slaw, great bread. And well made house-made pickles and other good bites (what were those bites?) accompanying.

                Service was tip-top--friendly and efficient.

                And I liked the space (including outdoor space, perfect on a sunny day). There was a photographer there from the East Bay Express snapping photos. Can't wait to return and try all the other fabulous looking fare I spied at other tables.

                Another post-er wondered about safety re their Saturday evening hours. Is that over-worrying or right to worry (hoping the former--as a worrier by nature, it's always hard for me to sort out....)?

                1 Reply
                1. re: sundeck sue
                  Robert Lauriston Feb 8, 2013 05:28 PM

                  To the south and west there are some neighborhoods with drug and gang activity but that's an industrial area and pretty much deserted at night.

                2. r
                  ricegeek Mar 11, 2013 05:45 PM

                  We finally made it last Saturday night, and to address the safety concerns, we didn't feel unsafe eating there. I definitely wouldn't take a stroll in the area around the restaurant after dark, but it was fine for us to walk to our car parked on the street half a block away. We also didn't see any suspicious activities while we were there to make us feel uneasy. Ultimately, it depends on your tolerance for sketchy neighborhood. In my case, the risk was out weight by high quality food we got.

                  Speaking of food, we ordered
                  - KFC. Skin was so crispy it was almost like a layer of hard candy. It wasn't as spicy as other KFC variants, but the flavors come together nicely. Meat was juicy and high quality as someone else mentioned. This by itself was worth the price of admission.
                  - Karaake. Good but not terribly memorable.
                  - Naked Pig. Grilled pork jowl with a nice balance of fatty and meatty parts. It came with briny shrimp and mustard sauce, which give it a nice jolt of flavor to balance out the richness.
                  - Bacon wrapped Mochi. There version is a little heavy handed with butter on the mochi, but it's hard not to like.
                  - Pork Belly Bap Set. Our other favorite of the night. Nothing mind blowing, but the flavors of gochujang came thru beautifully in the perfectly grilled pork belly pieces. The banchan that came with the set was good, with kimchi apple as the standout.
                  - Korean Beignet. Nice crisp skin and chewy center, which I am sure is made of sweet rice given it's chewiness.

                  1 Reply
                  1. re: ricegeek
                    Robert Lauriston Mar 11, 2013 05:54 PM

                    It's an industrial neighborhood, so it's dead outside of work hours. Pretty quiet on weekdays, too, except for occasional sounds of power tools cutting and grinding wood, metal, and stone.

                  2. h
                    hungree Apr 25, 2013 06:43 PM

                    Dinner starts tonight. https://twitter.com/fuseBOX_W_Oak/sta...

                    1 Reply
                    1. re: hungree
                      Robert Lauriston Apr 26, 2013 09:22 AM

                      Dinner now Thursday-Saturday 5:30-9pm.

                    2. Robert Lauriston May 11, 2013 02:45 PM

                      Further expanded hours, happy hour between lunch & dinner Thurs.-Sat. Gorgeous patio weather right now.

                       
                      1 Reply
                      1. re: Robert Lauriston
                        Robert Lauriston May 11, 2013 04:02 PM

                        rotated menu picture

                         
                      2. Robert Lauriston Oct 16, 2013 02:47 PM

                        Temporarily not open for lunch due to being shorthanded: Wed.-Sat., happy hour 3:30-5:30, dinner 6-9.

                        1. Robert Lauriston Dec 7, 2013 11:57 AM

                          New hours beginning Tuesday:

                          Lunch Thursday and Fridays Only 11:30-2:30
                          Happy Hours Wednesday - Saturday 3:30-5:30
                          Dinner Tuesday thru Saturday 6:00-9:00
                          Breakfast/Brunch Sunday Only 9:00-2:00

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