Pur - 1 star Michelin restaurant at Park Hyatt Vendome Paris Review
- Snoopyoo Oct 9, 2012 11:57 PM
Had a wonderful dinner at Pur Tuesday night with the 6 course tasting menu for 100 Euros and the service like the rest of Park hyatt Vendome had been excellent.
Have stayed at the Park Hyatt several times over last few years and eaten at breakfast at L'Orchidees, champagne brunch at L'Orchidees, at the bar/near the seating area by the fireplace for tapas, and I think on the Terrace too but had not made it to PUR before. The favourite thing I had eaten at Park Hyatt Vendome before was a foie gras creme brulee on a japanese porcelin soup spoon on the brunch buffet I think. Yumm..
Had tried to go to PUR before for dinner on a previous trip and they were fully booked when I tried the day of but I think it was a weekend (Fri/Sat) when I tried vs Tues night on Oct 9 this time. I got a reservation same evening of and a table facing the kitchen with one of the best view of the house, probably only 2nd to the chefs table :D It is the photo on the Pur website which if you see the Chefs table, part of the open kitchen and 1.5 tables, I had the full table on the photo and frontal view of the open kitchen.. Full foodie haven!!! Hotel’s head chef, Jean-François Rouquette and team had earned 1 Michelin star and I think it is well deserved.
I choose the 6 course tasting menu for 100 Euro since the 9 course one for 160 euro sounded as if I would totally stuff myself to the gills. Also I love lamb and the saddle of lamb was only on the 6 course menu. Declined the wine pairing which is 176 Euro if you have it with the 6 course tasting menu since I drank a bit the day before and just flown in that morning and was a little tired and jetlegged. Only intended to have 1 glasses of wine, maybe 2 if I found something I really liked.
not sure if the menu I had is here still..
Pur has an excellent wine list and you can droll over the wall of wine fridges on your way in.. Some absolutely beautiful wines there. Some prices were not cheap, like the the 1996 PETRUS for 3500 Euro cough or the 6500 Euro for the 1995 KRUG CLOS D’AMBONNAY cough cough, but there are affordible choices on the wine menu.
I was dining by myself so was first looking at the wine by the glass (15cl) and saw a glass of 2011 Chablis 1er cru from Vaillon for 24 Euros which is 89 Euro if you get the bottle. Chablis 1er cru was my favourite when I used to live and working in Paris many moons ago so ordered that. Nothing really grabbed me on the glass list to go with the lamb so started persuing the main part of wine list since there were some half bottles there too.
Looked through the bottle selection and saw a 2008 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru - Les Marconnets - Domaine de la Vougeraie that looked very interesting for 38 Euro for the half bottle 37.5 CL. The 2008 or 2009 bottle from the same vineyard is 90 Euros. I love Beaune and remember fondly of a wine festival I went to many moons before where for 20 francs entrance you tasted some fantastic wines including Gevrey Chambertin and Nuit St. George. I tend to prefer red wines these days so if I had seen this before I ordered the glass of Chablis 1er Cru, probably would have just gone with the half bottle of red. They opened the half bottle to let it breath.
You get many surprise tasting samples / amuse bouches. First up this night was foie gras lollipop with a grape coating and nuts with 4 others on a plate. An aspic on a toothpick wrapped around something, a mini-slice of toasted brioche with a topping, a small slice of something I cannot remember and a cigarillo type lacy pastry with nut butter and what tasted like slices of almond? The foie gras lollipop was great but did not surpass what I remembered of the foie gras creme brulee on a japanese style porcelin spoon from a brunch buffet at L'Orchidees a few years ago.
I like that cigarillo thing too..
Then they came around with another amuse bounch of red snapper with red fruit and tomato and a smoked tomato coulis. The mix of flavours were excellent.
The first course was duck foie gras poached in hibiscus juice with enoki and soba noodles. Tasty and I liked the foie gras but I realized I prefer my foie gras seared and the enoki was fine but the soba noodle did not do it for me.
The 2nd course was chanterelle mushrooms (or girolle sp? from the french explaination they gave to the next table) bouton de culotte, sazelnut cruble, sweet and sour mulberries... This I liked but I always like mushrooms and the mulberries were tiny bits of flavour.. In France you can go pick mushrooms and take it to pharmacy to be identified before when i lived there.
Third course was Anglerfish (Lotte) with sea scented emulsion and young leeks. Nice fish and the taste was more delicate and subtle but with the memories of the bold and more complex flavours from the red snapper amuse bouche, I preferred that since I loved the smoked tomato coulis with the red snapper.
4th course was the stuffed saddle of lamb, browned eggplant & sweet onions with some white filling on the tiny layer of grilled onion and jus and I think pine nuts in the stuffing. The Savigny les Beaune 1er Cru went well with the lamb which are 2 slices probably about an inch thick each and size about same as the center from probably a 1lb rack of lamb.
5th course was comte, red onion and wine aspic which was probably the course I was not sure about. Comte I can take or leave and given the choice would have preferred brie de meaux. Wondered what was on the custom cheese cart on the 9 course menu which the table to my right was having.
I was suprised when they came with a little cup of chocolate mousse with ice cream but apparently dessert is served with pre-dessert and post dessert.
The last or dessert course was a shortbreas tart with figs from Mr Baud lightly tangy with passion fruit juice, ice cream with sweet clover. It was a a small rectangle of sable pate with slices of figs and a small fig wrapped in a passion fruit juice and another small fig wrapped with grape juice. Loved the figs and especially the one in passion fruit juice.
Post dessert was 3 things plus some home made nouget which they bring in a large jar.. the small square of nouget was excellent. The 3 things was a small sheet of orange crystalized lacy patisserie style baked with nuts and flour and sugar. Couple of chocolate truffle dipped in dark chocolate served on top of what tasted /smelled like burnt or toasted chipped espresso. And the last was some white chocolate and nut domed cluster with some freezed dried berries (blueberries perhaps).
The bill came to 162 Euros service and tax compris. Since the service was excellent throughout the night, attentive and more than happy to answer any question I had, I added more than 10% additional tip to round up. When you exit the restaurant, you are given a small bag of a nut brittle covered one side by dark chocolate as a gift. I really do not want to know the sugar count of that meal with the wonderful desserts lol.
Overall a very enjoyable meal with superb service.
Highly recommend to go for dinner there and try to get a table with full view of the kitchen if you are a foodie. The price is highish but inline considering the quality of the food you get (especially with all the extra) and Pur is a 1 star michelin restaurant. The courses are not huge but you have more than enough to eat with the 6 courses and 4 additional surprise courses or amuse bouche.
The restaurant is open 8pm to 10pm every night but i got there just before 9pm and the meal took close to 3 hrs.