Restaurant recs near Campo San Angelo in Venice
- sockii Oct 9, 2012 04:58 PM
So the sweetie and I are going next week for our second visit to Venice. We are staying in an apartment near Campo San Angelo and I'm just interested in any restaurant recs in the nearby area, for those days/nights when we've been wandering around all day and want a good evening meal close to "home". Mostly I'm interested in places that don't require reservations and aren't too fancy - I want good Venetian food without the fuss. We hate to be bound to a set schedule and have to be a place at a certain time, so looking for probably more casual, local-friendly recs that aren't too high-end and yet won't rip off the tourists with sub-par food. Nothing that would require a reservation, basically, and any Cicchetti bars to check out would absolutely be appreciated! (Sometimes we like to do a big lunch and then just graze around through the evening in Italy...)
Bacareto is pretty close by, and pretty good. A very casual osteria.
That neighborhood isn't really known for an over abundance of great places to eat. The only ok-ish wine bar type place near you in Cavatappi. A bit touristy for my taste, but you'll eat well.
Just be aware that any place in Venice that is worth going to will require a reservation. And that there really aren't any places that don't attract tourists too. That's the nature of Venice.
There are a lot of ciccheti places that are great, but not right near your apt. But you can find mention of those in the many past Venice threads.
"Just be aware that any place in Venice that is worth going to will require a reservation"
Well, I disagree strongly with that. We were in Venice about 5 years ago for the first time and just tended to wander and wander until we were away from the picture-menu tourist traps and were eating in places where the menu was written for the night on brown paper...and had a few great meals even in "touristy" places by ordering right. I think the attitude that there's no good food in Venice unless you spend a fortune and/or reserve months in advance is pretty overstated. But, you know, we're happy with a darn fine plate of fritto misto or sarde in saor, not looking for mindblowing gourmet stuff. Just wanted to know if there were any little gems in our location to make sure not to miss.
Two minutes from Sant' Angelo is Campo Santa Stefano where on calle Botteghe is Trattoria da Fiore (next door is their popular bacaro, stand up only); on the same calle is the more rustic, Osteria alle Botteghe. Also Osteria Assassini on rio terra dei Assassini. Always chancy without a reservation, especially on weekends.
It might be too late for you to see this...
I stayed in Campo Sant Angelo last May and basically looked down at Aqua Pazza and Hostaria Galileo from my apartment. I thought I would eat at Aqua Pazza but after watching for awhile I decided against it - but I DID try Hostaria Galileo, a restaurant I have walked by a gazillion times but never tried. It is kind of a cool place - the chef there is deconstructing Venetian dishes and doing some kinds of sushi among other things. I really liked part of my meal, part was just OK, but the setting - in the campo - is stellar and the staff is very nice. It was moderately priced too.
I was intrigued enough to recommend it.
da Fiore has decent cichetti, but it is better to go up to Cannaregio or over to San Polo for cichetti.
I'm back from my vacation (which turned into 2 weeks from 10 days thanks to Hurricane Sandy...) and had some great food experiences overall (no reservations required :) I'm working my way day by day through the food reports and reviews on my food blog, but I will say that our highlights overall were:
A Beccafico - right near our apartment, we went twice and loved it for the service, food and atmosphere. The marinated raw fish antipasti was just about the best thing I've ever eaten in my life and they make an amazing zuppa di cozze that comes out in a bowl covered with fresh-baked bread...just...amazingly awesome.
Osteria Al Ponte "La Patatina" - again, went twice, including with my father who lives in Milan and declared it the best food he had in all our travels in the Venice area. Homey and fun, eating with the gondoliers and the pasta dishes were outstanding.
Osteria Al Ponte del Diavolo - on Torcello, a wonderful Autumn-themed menu that was a delight and elegantly presented from start to finish.
Vecio Fritolin - creative and beautiful food in a comfortable, relaxed atmosphere. I am still dreaming of the "Pumpkin Royale with Chicken Livers" I ate there and every element of the meal was perfect.
One disappointment was Trattoria Al Gatto Nero da Ruggero on Burano. Went here specifically after seeing it on Andrew Zimmern's tv show. The risotto was WAY too peppery (my father agreed, as a native Italian he didn't like it at all) and poorly presented. The mixed seafood antipasto was beautiful there but I just felt like it had a stuffy attitude that didn't match the food, especially with the disappointing risotto (we had much better elsewhere on Venice without the attitude.)
Anyway, I'm only up to day 4 of 14 in my blog, but you can find the day-by-day/restaurant-by-restaurant reviews here if you are interested: