Live like a Local 4 days and nights Itinerary
My Boyfriend and I will be visiting New Orleans in mid November for a mini vacation . my 3rd time visiting, his first. we both LOVE food, both Dives and Fine Dining . we are both Pescaterian [ planning to eat a ton of fresh seafood] and staying one night in the Quarter at the Hotel Le Marais and the other 3 days and nights in a charming cottage in the Marigny. we are renting a car for part of the time so we have maximum freedom and can sight-see and go thrift shopping further out. we are both musicians of the indie rock variety.
please check our dining itinerary and advise on any cool rock shows, art happenings or weird vintage/ thrift shops. I tried to plan a mix of high and low brow eats according to neighborhoods.
day 1 wednesday - arrive at hotel Le Marais in the AM .
lunch at Galatoire's
explore and bar hop in the quarter [ Carousel Bar, Tonique, Pravda ]
dinner at Bayona
day 2 thursday - rent car and move to Marigny
lunch at either Clancy's or Liuzza's mid-city or Maurepas Foods.
explore cemeteries . go "junking" drive around Bywater
bars - saturn bar , Vaughan's,
dinner at Dantes or Boucherie
late night around Frenchmen st. [ R Bar , three muses ]
day 3 friday - breakfast at Elizabeth's
shopping on magazine st.
lunch at August or Hi-Hat
dinner at either Casamento's , Herbsaint or Dante's depending on food mood
day 4 saturday - brunch at Atchafalaya
return car walk around in the Quarter and river , take photos
lunch at green goddess
dinner at Iris or Mila's
sunday - brunch at Mr. B's
grab a sandwich someplace later and head to the airport early evening
any additional advice is welcomed !!! especially cool dives or fun thrift shops.
also, dish recommendations at the named restaurants .
we hope to make it to Parkway for a shrimp po-boy at some point too !!
thank you for any insider tips in advance .
Grab Crabby Jacks on your way to the airport....It's same owner as Jaqui-Imo's which isn't the best dining experience you will have by the looks of your ambitious eating tour, but is damn good food and right next to the Maple Leaf where you should see Rebirth place on a Tuesday night...have fun. I just did a similar post to yours so check out some of those choices too.
I think you have produced a wonderful itinerary. My only caution after a recent visit of my own is that having three meals a day, with Louisiana portions (and richness) is not easy, and even I found that even two good-sized meals a day catches up with you after awhile. So, for example, I had a Saturday Atchafalya brunch, nothing in the afternoon (and lots of walking), and even then had trouble doing justice to my Saturday night dinner...too much of which I had to leave on the plate.
It is frustrating, because you want to visit as many places as you can, but there's only so much a person can digest in a day.
I am with you on the "three squares," but then am now older. Maybe, when I was a teenager, I could do three meals per day in NOLA, but that IS a lot of food - great food, but still, a lot of food.
Now, I shoot for maybe breakfast and dinner, or early lunch, and late dinner, but three NOLA meals? I am no longer capable of such gluttony.
Since you will be shopping on Friday on Magazine St, I would highly recommend Coquette for lunch. It is a charming restaurant with great food only matched by their great service. Good drinks too. My last 2 meals at August were meh and too expensive, service didn't compare to Coquette.
I feel that Dante's does brunch better than dinner--ambiance, cohesiveness. Both Dantes and Boucherie are very small (Dantes has the patio, I do not think Boucherie does).
My overall service/drinks/dessert experience was stellar when I went to Boucherie in May; not extremely memorable at Dantes, though I wanted it to be. (The bartender was rude, and snobby). For your Friday, I would pick Herbsaint or Casamento's over Dante's.
Also I have some good ideas for salvage/thrift shops but will get back to you later on that via messaging.
I am wondering if you should change your "junking" day to Friday since you are @ Elizabeth's and some salvage spots are near Bywater/marigny, and your Magazine shopping day to Saturday since you will be at Atchafalaya for brunch?
Parkway is essential, IMHO. Agree with topeater about Coquette.
i thought one could direct message through chow? email me at firstname.lastname@example.org and I will give you a few thrift hints. trying to stay food-focused on chow.
I am bummed about Casamentos per JazzyB below. Coquette and Domenica should be on your list, if possible. I would do Mr Bs for light lunch/cocktails at the bar and somewhere else for brunch, frankly. Bayona has a $25 Light lunch on Saturdays --if that matters to you in terms of moving things around. Not sure how pescaterian it is but they may be willing to modify if you call in advance.
Many fine dining restaurants offer great lunch specials only m- f. August, 3 courses $20.13. Commander's is a fun time with 25 cent martinis aplus a prix fixw. Dine in the treetops in the garden room. Coquette offers lunch on Sat. and Sunday brunch. You can take the streetcar, get off at Washinton and walk about 2 blocks to Commander's or about 5 to Coquette (corner Washington/Magazine). Lilette is also uptown on Magazine and offers around 12 or so appetizers that make for a great personalized tasting menu. Domenica has a daily HH 1/2 price pizzas, well drinks, wine. While the pizzas are divine, their pastas and salads are equally good. The mushroom soup is womderful.
Casamentos used to be great. Sad to say, it is not the same without Joseph. We had lunch Saturday. Oysters on 1/2 shell were barely above room temp. The oyster and softshell loaves had no discernable butter. While you have a car, go instead to Bozos on 21st St. in Metairie.
Consider GW Fins. The scalibut is excellent
FYI- Saturn bar is more of a late night (post 10pm) place. I'd go there late night one night (take a cab)and also hit the Hi-Ho Lounge on the way. If you go on Thurs, hit the Saturn bar after the show at Vaughn's. In the Marigny: You'd probably like MiMis in the Marigny the R-Bar.
Bywater is best seen by foot in the daytime- the area is sketchy after dark so be aware of your surroundings at all times! Park the car there and get out and walk around. There is a really cool junk/antique shop there on Dauphine called Bargain Center. There is a good wine shop in the Bywater called bacchanal and they have guest chefs visiting every week. You should really check this out: http://www.bacchanalwine.com/
A couple of notes --
- If you make it to the green project, be sure to cross the tracks and check out Harolds ... for an inner city garden center, it's crazy. On Royal there's the Habitat place that's worth a stop-in and the Mardi Gras Zone (they have a bizarre selection of stuff, be sure to go upstairs too).
- There are a couple of kids whomping up tacos out in front of BJ's lounge (Burgundy @ Lesseps) that are worth stopping for (and BJ's is fun as well). Worth a walk by after Vaughn's.
- Maurapas gets all the press (and it's richly deserved) but the place across the street, Suis Generis puts out some great food too (cash only, they have an ATM). If you're on the block, stop in at Bud Rips for a cold one or walk the other way down Louisa and have a drink at Markey's. Neither bar will win a "best of" this year; both are great neighborhood places though. Be sure to visit Euclid Records before or after Elizabeth's, they're a block upriver on Chartres. (Also, don't speed on Chartres ... there's a 25 mph limit and a speed camera in front of Elizabeth's.)
- If you're a beer snob, make an effort to visit the Avenue Pub on St. Charles in the Lower Garden District. The beer selection is crazy ass good. Bacchanal, it's worth noting, is a wine shop primarily but their selection of other stuff (beer, booze, and the stuff that makes the world go round--mezcal) is notable.
- During your music/bar crawl, remember that Aurora Neeland (if that's how it's spelt) plays the back room at Buffa's (Burgundy @ Esplanade) on Thursdays. Both she and Buffa's are worth a visit, try the Chuck Wings.
- The advice to be very aware of your surroundings is well stated though the Bywater is far safer in 2012 than it was just a couple of years ago, so don't be paranoid. Gentrification is vaguely evil but does have some upsides.
Anyhow, good calls on your original list.
I love the Avenue Pub, and it's getting to be really nice weather to be sitting out on the upstairs balcony over St. Charles.
FYI, the owner of Cure bought Pravda and has turned it into a rum/tiki type place called Perestroika. I'm of 2 minds about it I like rum/tiki, but I LOVED Pravda.
One of my favorite bars in the FQ is the Chart Room, and just down the street on N. Peters is Felipe's which has pretty good cheap Mexican food, but I am recommending it for its cocktails which are astoundingly excellent and very cheap. Also on N. Peters going toward Canal is St. Lawrence, a new restaurant that people are loving on right now.
I would also recommend going to the Erin Rose on Conti St. between 12-12 Thurs-Sun and getting a poboy from Killer PoBoys. Awesome, awesome, awesome.
There are some pretty good places in MidCity in the N. Carrollton area- Rue 127, Toups Meatery, and Serendipity come to mind.
On Frenchmen Street on weekend nights is the Frenchmen Street Market, an outdoor market with a collection of local artists. I actually buy stuff there all the time. There's a woman who does amazing hairbands, and a guy who embroiders those pearl snap western shirts, and a couple of folks that do really awesome soap.
thanks for the advice noradeirdre ! I will research your suggestions today . I already had Erin Rose on my list. it's right down the street from the hotel. bummer about Pravda . it looked really cool. Love the idea of the Frenchman st. market ! that sounds right up my alley . it sounds like something in my town called the Crafty Supermarket [which I love]
now that we are returning for the second week of Jazzfest, I realized I never did the recap from our trip in November.
it was an amazing time . relaxing and delicious.
here is a list of meals and activities
Hotel Le Marais ★★★★ great location, modern, and friendly
Green Goddess ★★★ cute, bohemian, interesting fusion cuisine
Bayona ★★★ snapper with smoked mussel sauce lentils & brussels sprouts, a little bit stuffy vibe
Cassamentos ★★★★★ LOVED this place ! old-school, friendly, amazing oysters, poboys, lovely neighborhood
Mimi's in the Marigny ★★ ok tapas, snobby bartender
Bacchanal ★★★ awesome patio, great band, will eat there next time [the menu looked great]
Siberia ★★ indie dive bar, good takeout slavic from Kukhnya
Elizabeth's ★★★ neighborhood diner, good brunch, featuring Dr. Bob's art
Luizza's ★ mediocre Sysco food, super crowded
Atchafalaya ★★ decent brunch, yummy grits, bloody mary bar, had a reservation but then seated at a terrible table and then acted rude when we asked to move
Dante's Kitchen ★★★ comfortable, delicious side dishes
EAT ★★★★★ my favorite brunch of the trip, BYO champagne, oysters napoleon benedict, lovely people watching
Dr. Bob Folk Art - big decorated barn in the Bywater stuffed with his signature artwork and he gave me a deal !
Mardi Gras Zone - big deli , grocery and party supplies
Fringe Fest - checked out a block party and an afternoon parade
can't wait to return in May !!! will most def go back to EAT for brunch and Cassamentos for oysters and Bacchanal.
this trip besides sampling all the food at Jazzfest [OMG]
we are going to check out Serendipity, Maurepas, the Killer Poboys at Erin Rose Bar, and possibly Suis Generis.
plus we are bringing bicycles !