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My first quiche crust: I don't think all butter (pâté brisée), but to add animal fat. Leaf lard or kidney suet? Different ratios for each?

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The subject basically says it all. For what it's worth, James Peterson has all butter. Julia Child and Pepin use animal fat.; Child has 6 oz butter to to 4 tbsp shortening, I forget Pepin's ratio.

The second part of the question is, if I do opt for leaf lard or suet, do the proportions differ for each?

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  1. Butter is about 80% fat so I would adjust accordingly.
    6 oz butter = 4.8 oz (5 oz) leaf lard + 1 oz water or other liquid
    Because the additional liquid may render the dough too wet, it's best to reserve that until you've got a handle on the texture of the dough then add it a few drops at a time. (1 oz = 2 Tbsp.)

    1 Reply
    1. re: todao

      Thanks for this. Oddly it never appears in anything I've seen.

    2. I sub them equally in pastry crusts.

      1. I've talked to a chef who used to do it with an almost equal, but has since lowered the animal fat amount to about 3:2 (Child's ratio) or 3:1.

        I pressed him on whether to use leaf lard or suet. He said that he really doesn't care; he also said that any pig fat or cow fat would do, but perhaps he could get away with that when he worked at lower-quality, high-turnover restaurant (he has now gone on to better places).

        As to which fat to use (and I'm still interested in proportions, and if anybody has used all butter), leaf-lard or suet? Surely they have different tastes--or perhaps I'm plain wrong.

        1 Reply
        1. re: rbraham

          I just read this on another thread, but if I was doing quiche lorraine, I'd be tempted to try a bit of bacon grease. Not that I have yet!

        2. I use whatever crust I have in the freezer. (I make my own and freeze them in saran wrap , thaw briefly and roll out as needed.)

          For quiche, I will precook the crust for about ten minutes before adding the filling. Then do the regular cooking time.