My first quiche crust: I don't think all butter (pâté brisée), but to add animal fat. Leaf lard or kidney suet? Different ratios for each?
The subject basically says it all. For what it's worth, James Peterson has all butter. Julia Child and Pepin use animal fat.; Child has 6 oz butter to to 4 tbsp shortening, I forget Pepin's ratio.
The second part of the question is, if I do opt for leaf lard or suet, do the proportions differ for each?
Butter is about 80% fat so I would adjust accordingly.
6 oz butter = 4.8 oz (5 oz) leaf lard + 1 oz water or other liquid
Because the additional liquid may render the dough too wet, it's best to reserve that until you've got a handle on the texture of the dough then add it a few drops at a time. (1 oz = 2 Tbsp.)
I've talked to a chef who used to do it with an almost equal, but has since lowered the animal fat amount to about 3:2 (Child's ratio) or 3:1.
I pressed him on whether to use leaf lard or suet. He said that he really doesn't care; he also said that any pig fat or cow fat would do, but perhaps he could get away with that when he worked at lower-quality, high-turnover restaurant (he has now gone on to better places).
As to which fat to use (and I'm still interested in proportions, and if anybody has used all butter), leaf-lard or suet? Surely they have different tastes--or perhaps I'm plain wrong.