Le Pur' Park Hyatt Vendôme
Wondering if anyone has any input on the Michelin one star restaurant Le Pur' at the Park Hyatt Vendôme? It is run by Chef Jean-François Rouquette. I have found limited info on CHOW about it (which is always worrisome). I am intrigued by their 7 coarse tasting menu with wine pairings that they are offering on La Fourchette for 175€. The only day this would work in is on Sunday, but would be replacing my dinner at Le Violon d'Ingres, which is a totally different type of meal and price point.
My initial thoughts of Le Pur' is that it may be too safe and sterile being a international hotel chain. The reviews of the tasting menu on La Fourchette are quite good. I actually often enjoy tasting menus, especially with wine pairings, as it forces me to try new things I may have not otherwise tried.
So has anyone been to Le Pur' or able to comment?
I dined at Le Pur in April.
Former President Valery Giscard d'Estaing was dining a few steps behind me (but not with me), the rotunda-shaped dining room is very stylish, so is the "table du chef" (a canopied dining space with a full view on the open kitchen.
I liked the sommelier and found the wine pairings (with the tasting menu) clever, the food is what you would expect from an international chain: technically brilliant but with not very assertive tastes, a certain dose of superficiality, no risks are taken, because of the international clientele everything is reduced to (what they believe to be) the universal common denominator, so it's good, but nothing stands out.
I know Jean-François Rouquette to be an extremely able chef and in another context I know he would produce more personal stuff. All in all my most vivid memory of that dinner remains the sight of the splendid open kitchen and the back of Giscard's neck.
I am told, though, that anything resembling beef (côte de bœuf, etc.) is worth ordering there.
"the food is what you would expect from an international chain: technically brilliant but with not very assertive tastes, a certain dose of superficiality, no risks are taken, because of the international clientele everything is reduced to (what they believe to be) the universal common denominator, so it's good, but nothing stands out."
You have put into words our lack of enthusiasm or even positive memory of many of the white tablecloth and low level Michelin dining rooms we have visited of late. Designer livery, mannered service, stunning floral arrangements, artfully cut produce, beautiful plates, utterly approachable and forgettable food. We leave hungry for soul, for tasting the head, heart and hand of the maker.
Rereading your post I see that you put a stress on the wine-pairing tasting menu. If you're into wine pairings, I must tell you that this menu is really nice. But I think I enjoyed the wines more than the food.
If you want food of that level of technicity without the impersonality that often goes with luxury hotel fare, I have two recommendations:
Amandine Chaignot at Hôtel Raphaël (yes it's an hotel but she really shines through)
Les Tablettes de Jean-Louis Nomicos (not a hotel but he shines through, too)
Ptipois- thanks for the feedback on your experience of the tasting menu. This will be on a Sunday night after a day trip to Versailles, so I am sure we will have built up an appetite. Being a Sunday my options are somewhat limited. Currently have reservations for Le Violon d'Ingres. I guess I am trying to debate if it is worth giving up reservations at Violon for the tasting menu at Pur. Some of the reviews of Violon have been wonderful, but others just mediocre. One other caveat is that we will be doing lunch the next day at Le Cinq.
If you are likely to have built up an appetite that Sunday night, be warned that the tasting menu at Le Pur might leave you a bit hungry, unless of course you opt for the (expensive) à la carte options or the grilled beef.
On the other hand, if you will be having lunch at Le Cinq the next day, that may not be a bad thing.