Offal in Vienna
I origionally posted on the International board: http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/870138.
Kukubura was nice enough to respond and told me that the Vienna expert, Sturmi, didn't read the International board. So I thought I'd try my luck here.
In preperation for my trip I have spent alot of time reading these boards, tripadvisor etc. I know there are lots of places that serve liver, sweatbreads and beuscherl. In fact my first meal will be beuscherl...and Sacher torte. But, where can I find brains, intestines etc?
I am very much looking forward to my visit. Thanks for your help!
Kukubura is correct when he/she (there are two if you, I know !) assumes that I do not follow the International forum. In fact, the boards other than Europe I have saved are Italy, Manhattan and China& South East Asia, and even these boards see me only when I am traveling...
Regarding your travel plans I would like to note that the places you have listed are all more or less high-end or at least rather bourgeois and not the down-to-earth variety you need for good offal cuisine.
Here are a few tips where to find good offal, including tripe ("Kutteln"), lung and heart ("Beuschl"), liver, black pudding ("Blutwurst") and brain ("Kalbshirn").
There are nowadays quite a few beisl specialising in offal.
The first coming to mind is Zum Recnizek in 9., Recnizekgasse. They always have some offal on the menu, but also game dishes, Wiener Schnitzel, Tafelspitz or goulash are great.You also can get 8 different kinds of beer from the tap. The restaurant is quite traditional, local customers prevail, and the chef is of astounding volume. I recommend it because of quality AND authenticity. Here you can get the feel of old Vienna...
The second and third are less traditional, more part of the "beisl revival" scene, although the main difference might be the clientele, which is more the chic and trendy type and not locals only.
Gasthaus Wolf has opened only recently but looks like it has been around for decades. Wolf has a unique alent of creating new variations of old Viennese offal classics, and always has lung, liver, tripe or brain on his menu. But, like Rudi´s Beisl, the place is very small and reservation a must.
The other one is Gasthaus Stern in Simmering, somewhat in the proletarian periphery of Vienna, but definitely worth a detour. There you can get also veal or pork kidneys, calf brain and sweetbread ("Kalbsbries").
But offal is also a main topic and the always popular Gmoakeller. Their "Blunzngröstl", a mixture of fried black pudding with fried onions and potatoes, is heavenly, a real experience.
Other beisl offering offal inlcuding sweatbreads, tongue and tripe are Meixners Gastwirtschaft
Zur goldenen Kugel. http://www.zurgoldenenkugel.at
But there are also ethnic restaurants offering offal:
The chinese variation of offal is presented by Simon Xie Hong, who has two restaurants, ON in Wehrgasse and China Bar on Burggasse. he has interesting recipes for tripe, pork belly or liver. http://www.gmoakeller.at/gmoa/Gmoakeller_Speisen.html
And finally, my favorite place has finally reopened after a two year hiatus.
The friulian enoteca Cantina Friulana in Bartensteingasse.
Toni Mimra is not from Iltaly, he is from Styria. But this does not prevent him from presenting friulian cuisine at its best, and tripe is a regular item on his - small - menu. But you should not miss his antipasti, which also always contains some nervetti, cooked and marinated calves tendons...
Thanks very much Sturmi. All the places ARE high end places: dinner with the patricians. I will have reservations at all of them in the evening, mostly after or just before opera, symphony etc.(and every night I have an opera or concert scheduled). They were the easiest to find and book via the internet and closest to the venues.
On the other hand I wanted to have lunch with the proletariat, hence the question of offal. (The exception is Artner, which appealed to me, even though I had no evenings available..hence lunch.)
I have requested a reservation at Stern at noon on my birthday. That night the evening is given to Steirerecke, which along with Staatsoper is the reason I will be coming to Vienna. I suspect it will not be my last visit.
Do I need reservations at Reznicek for midday lunch during the week or on weekend? They have no page or e mail address that I could find. Ferdinand Point, the great French chef (La Pyramide) was to have said: "Never trust a thin chef."
Gmoakeller also on the list. I tried to e mail them a couple of weeks ago asking for an evening reservation before a concert at Musikverein but the mail just bounced back. I noticed blood sausage on the menu also. One of the best meals I had in Alsace was blood sausage and potatoes at a Stube.
Many thanks for your help!
Reznicek is a real neighbourhood beisl, I guess they would rather accept a request for reservation by phone, but they have a fax number and an e-mail address you will find here:
Here are the same contact details for Gmoakeller, maybe you should try a reservation by fax:
For lunch I would recommend not to forget Gasthaus Pöschl, first because of its food, but also because of its unique interior as well as location. It is actually located across the street from Artner, but we prefer to lunch at Pöschl, which is much less expensive and more of a classic Viennese beisl, whereas Artner IMHO is just another pretentious steakhouse...
But wait, you mentioned Artner auf der Wieden. This is their original location, but the food is the same as on Franziskanerplatz: steaks of any kind and size.