Honeymoon Part 2: Paris Trip Report
Longtime chow stalker, first time poster. First of all wanted to thank the many contributors to this board as many of the places we went to on our Honeymoon were direct recommendations from this site. We had an amazing time eating our way around Paris and wanted to show our thanks via a trip report of our culinary adventures. Hope you enjoy!
Brieizh Cafe - Walked in at 1pm. Mushroom, cheese, egg, and ham galettes. Carafe of cider and tap water. 30E. Near our apartment and a good way to start off our Paris itinerary.
Akrame* - Reservation at 8:30pm. Amuses of olive caviar on a cheese cracker, avocado mouse on a vegetable cracker, smoked eel on a black seaweed and sesame cracker. 63 degree egg with hazelnuts, cream sauce, and chives. This was an outstanding egg dish and one of my favorite egg dishes I've ever eaten. Watermelon and tomato salad. Cockels with sea foam. Half lobster with edible flowers and pea sauce. Swordfish steak with creamy risotto and smoked swordfish. Squab with beets three ways. Chevre with figs and croutons. Banana and peanut butter mouse with chocolate sauce served in the banana skins. Ice cream and chocolate cake. Mignardises. Wine Pairings. Bottled water. 238E. Overall we really enjoyed the food at Akrame. However, we felt it was a huge mistake getting the wine pairing. The pours were small and we had to wait for our pairings for all but one course. The sommelier was the only one handling the pouring of the wines for the whole restaurant and was rather slow. Also going along with the theme of surpises from the kitchen, the pairings were poured with the expectation set by the sommelier that the explanation of the wine would follow each course. We had to ask for the description for all but 2 of the pairings. We'd return for the food, but would order the wine on our own.
Picnic in the gardens of Versaille. Really was an amazing time and is highly recommended for anyone visiting Versaille.
Frenchie wine bar at 7pm. Walked up right at 7, waited in a 6 person line and were promptly seated as they opened. Burrata with peaches, basil, and balsamic. Pate de campagne with house picked vegetables. Bottle of rose bubbles. 38E. Great way to start the night. Food was fresh, simple, and delicious.
Au Petit Sud Ouest - reservation at 9pm. Fresh foie gras slices. House made foie terrine. Pan seared foie gras with sauteed apples. Lots of bread. Bottle of Jurancon. 97E. This night was all about foie and it didn't dissapoint!
Croissants from a local boulangerie and kouignettes and macarons from Maison Georges Larnicol.
L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon Saint Germain**. Reservation at 6:30pm. Amuses of almond milk shot and tomato gazpacho. Very fresh and great ways to awaken our palettes. Caviar and potato. Langoustine wrapped and fried with a light mixed salad. Chicken and vegetable gyoza in a hibiscus broth. Seared foie gras with hibiscus jus. Creamy egg with mushrooms. Crispy rouget with seaweed chip and olive tapenade. Quail stuffed with foie gras and truffled mashed potatoes. Young lamb chops with thyme. Strawberries and fresh herbs. Various chocolate cakes. Caramels and Madeleines. Bottle of Premier Cru Cablis, glasses of Sauterne to accompany the foie course. They also comped a couple glasses of Chardonnay as the Chablis we ordered wasn't cold. Kind of surprising from such a restaurant, but they handled it well. 330E. Our best meal in France. Every dish was well thought out and perfectly prepared.
Savory crepes from the the Richard Lenoir market.
Robert et Louise. Walked in at 4:30pm. Entrecotes with potatoes and salad. One glass of wine, one coke light. 41E. Good steak and awesome salad, the house made dressing was delicious.
Le Compoir du Relais - waited in line for an hour starting at 8:30pm. Bone marrow with fresh peas, foam, pea puree, and caviar. Outstanding presentation of bone marrow. The peas and caviar added a fresh and lightness to the rich marrow. Romaine leaf and heart salad with reduced balsamic and picked red onions. Crispy skin chicken with snap peas and mashed potatoes. Bottle of Bandol Rose. 57E. A great meal that was worth the wait.
Aux Tonneaux des Halles. Walked in at 2pm.Eggs mayonaise, steak frites with bone marrow and green salad. Small carafe of Beaujolais and coke light. 58E. Delicious steak with amazingly crisp frites.
Mi Va Mi. Walked in at 10pm. Falafel pita sandwiches. Sprites. 21E.
Cafe des Musees. White bean and bacon salad. Rabbit with spaghetti squash. Two glasses of rose. 34E.
Jacques Genin - hot chocolate and paris brest. Caramels and chocolates to take home!
We ended up really enjoying eating often from boulangeries and patisseries near out apartment and also found out that one rich french meal a day was enough for our stomachs in order to still be able to pack in all our sightseeing desires!
thanks for the summaries. do you know if the kitchen stays active at Aux Tonneaux des Halles through the afternoon and early evening [hours when a wine bar might only have a simplified bar menu ; you also enjoyed a meal at Robert et Louise at a time when many places are shuttered for dinner prep], or did you catch the last part of their lunch service ? we're from the calif bay area as well -- where do you like to dine in SF ? it seems understandable to me that a premier cru Chablis would be stored under cellar conditions rather than refrigerated, and then chilled after it's ordered. congrats on your union, and a happy marriage is usually supposed to fatten up the male, at least a little.
Regarding Aux Tonneaux, the research I did shows their hours as:
Monday - Saturday: 8 a 2 au bar; 12-15 & 19:30 - 22:30 for the "terrace" or dining room. Not positive what kind of food they serve "au bar", as we were seated on the "terrace" during normal lunch hours.
Regarding Robert et Louise, the day we went was on a Sunday when they offer continuous service. Otherwise I found their hours to be: Monday - Sunday 12-15 & 19-23.
Our favorites in SF could and probably should take up another thread on its own, but an easy list for us is: Favorite splurge: Quince; Favorite Group/Casual: Limon Rottiserie; Favorite Pizza: Una Pizza Napoletana; Favorite Chinese: Henry's Hunan; Favorite Date Night Spot: Barbacco.
Regarding the premier cru Chablis, I understand the cellaring and then chilling, however, they opened the bottle and served us two full glasses of warm Chablis. That's when we asked to have the glasses added to the fridge with the rest of the bottle until it got to the right temp :)
Thanks for your well wishes!