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Paris -Where to find Steak Tartar aller-retour (seared)

  • j
  • jody Sep 16, 2012 11:57 AM

On my last trip to Paris I had a wonderful lunch in La Defense of steak tartare, frites and salad.
The steak tartar was in the shape of a hamburger patty and had been slightly seared. I think it is called aller-retour.

Can anyone recommend a place to get this in Paris, ideally in or near the Marais?

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  1. aller Retour is the La Defense restaurant name ?

    1. Theoretically, all brasseries and restaurants can serve tartare "aller-retour" if you specify while ordering. I haven't tested that, but it is worth asking.

      1. I'm reeling from "wonderful lunch" and "La Défense" in the same sentence.

        Funnily enough there's a very good steakhouse/ hamburger joint called l'Aller-Retour on the rue Charles-François Dupuis in the Haut-Marais whose hamburgers are more like seared steak tartare

        5 Replies
        1. re: Parnassien

          I'm reeling from anybody going to la defense out of his own free will,

          1. re: Parigi

            True but us wage slaves often go there for business or god help us actually work there. I agree it isn't grreat for food but the OP asked for a recommendation near the Marais. As Ptipois says many good brasseries will cook the dish, and probably get used to serving it to those who find the completely raw dish too challenging. My advice is to search the board for brasserie recommendations and simply order it - it may not be on the written menu though.

            1. re: PhilD

              The OP said this: "On my last trip to Paris I had a wonderful lunch in La Defense of steak tartare, frites and salad.
              The steak tartar was in the shape of a hamburger patty and had been slightly seared. I think it is called aller-retour."

              I still would not mind learning the name of the mystery resto in La Défense.

              1. re: PhilD

                It is very simple, in fact: if a restaurant serves tartare, and if you specify "aller-retour", they quickly sear it for you. I think all places that serve tartare do that, or most of them. It's a brasserie staple. It's just that people don't order it often, or do not know they can since, as you say, it is not on the written menu. It's an option, like rare steak or mayo on the side.

                I don't know how long this has been going on, but "tartares aller-retour" started appearing rather frequently at Paris brasseries and cafés in the late 90s. The trend has faded out somehow but I am sure the practice is still alive.

                1. re: Ptipois

                  It's the way you'll get a "hamburger" at my house, much to the laments of husband and son. Here, you have to order it rare or medium rare to get it otherwise! Because I, the cook, can't handle medium burgers. ;)

          2. I'll admit, it was a business lunch, where I was offered not alternatives.
            "alller retour", I believe, from some searching is how to refer to this seared preparation.

            3 Replies
            1. re: jody

              Well that's precisely what I wrote above.

              1. re: jody

                Does the restaurant have a name ?

                1. re: Parigi

                  Who's on first?

              2. Thanks for all the info. I'll report back on my experience and if I track down the resto...somewhere near Pl. Victor Hugo in Courbevoie...