Rome- What is in season and where to eat it
We are coming to Rome for the last two weeks of September. The title says the rest, I'd like to know what things are currently in season and recommendations on where to eat those things. We are pretty adventurous eaters and are interested in both traditional food as well more creative, less traditional places. We are staying in Trastevere, but certainly can navigate to where the good places are.
To see exactly what is in season I'd suggest a visit to one of the Farmers' Markets. There is one located on Via San Teodoro, right near Circo Massimo, that takes place on Saturday and Sunday. There you will definitely see what is in season locally.
I think you may be a bit early for porcini, which will appear later on in the season. But in terms of vegetables peppers should be great, as well as chicory. I've also seen some really beautiful eggplant in the market these days.
The trick to ordering seasonal vegetables is to ask your waiter what is available. Often the side dishes, or contorni, aren't listed since they change daily depending on what's available.
There is almost some sort of green available - chicory, spinach or swiss chard. You will be asked how you'd like it, either 'all'agro' which means simply boiled and dressed with olive oil and lemon, and served cold. Or 'ripassata in padella' which means thrown back into a frying pan with olive oil, garlic and hot pepper.
It's also still tomato season in Rome, so enjoy them while you can.