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Red Medicine -- July 2012 report

tupac17616 Sep 12, 2012 12:57 PM

In late July I made a trip across the country to try Red Medicine, a place I had kept my eye on from the moment it opened. We actually went two nights in a row because the first was so impressive. The story is below. And the pictures, if you're into that sort of thing, are here: http://pocketfork.com/usa/red-medicine/

My memory sucks.

There are gaps spanning several years. The most complex experiences survive only as basic sensory reactions — smells and sounds, especially. Etched in my nostrils even now is the aroma of burning leaves.

Before sparks turned to flames, I would splash through piles taller than I was, burying pine cones and needles. Nature’s firecrackers fell from the only kind of tree I knew growing up in east Texas. I don’t know how old I was, but I can still hear that sound.

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I was 22 years old when I first heard of kecap manis. Jordan Kahn used it in a dessert at a short-lived New York restaurant called Varietal.

He looked back then as he looks now — like a shy kid, chin tucked in toward his chest. Longish black hair shoots straight down one side of his head, sucked into an invisible vacuum on his shoulder. Jordan was the same age as me then. I suppose he still is.

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A certain Frank Bruni wrote that the creations of Kahn and his savory counterpart Ed Witt weren’t “just slightly altered carbon copies of what’s on plates everywhere else.” But he and other critics found the restaurant disjointed and self-conscious, filing a punitive one-star review.

I believed Mr. Kahn’s desserts to be the most compelling in the city, but the pastry kitchen was his only presidio, and the walls were crumbling around it. One can hardly blame him for jumping ship after just four months. (Varietal itself lasted only seven.

)

The intervening years saw Jordan and me both move to California, though he stayed put while I boomeranged back to New York. I ogled from afar in July of 2010 as he opened Red Medicine, a vaguely Vietnamese solo project in Beverly Hills where he would pinch the salt and spoon the sugar — both kitchens were now his.

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I don’t watch the news but I watched his Twitter account. Leaves, roots and seeds made up the majority of his 140 characters — @chefjordankahn was #foraging up a storm.

No surprise, then, to see the myriad garnishes that graced our plates last month at Red Medicine. Most were wild. Few were easily identifiable. The first — gangly pea tendrils — were arranged to stand aside snap peas in a soymilk custard as if the whole dish had literally sprouted up from the table.

Peas begat carrots. Heirloom black ones, roasted until the insides were like pudding, dotted with guava and tamarind, mounded with crispy kale and dulse seaweed. An expressive, exceptional plate of food.

Turnips turned up. Sweetness and funk alternated as the deeply caramelized root vegetable mingled with roasted banana chunks dusted in a powder of fermented black beans.

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Not the entire menu focused on vegetables, but I relished in pretending it did. How could I order otherwise when Indian eggplant bursts like a twice-baked potato with sprouted mung beans and edamame, when sweet corn swims in a fish bowl with lemongrass, young ginger and frozen uni powder?

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Protein proponents aren’t punished, either. They just have to wade through piles of leaves to get it. Beef tartare hides beneath water lettuce, mixes with nuoc leo (a Vietnamese peanut sauce) and is to be piled high on shrimp chips. Raw amberjack is buried under seaweed, buttermilk, and tapioca.

We dutifully ordered the heirloom rice porridge the first night. The restaurant’s most popular dish, it’s like congee on crack, brimming with as much butter as a Joël Robuchon X Paula Deen collaboration. The rice itself is so flavorful as to outshine its glam accessories (uni, egg yolk, crumbled chicken skin).

Each plate arrives with a living, breathing owner’s manual, which you can choose to read or not — these servers know their stuff. From a less-seasoned crew, my questions might have elicited blank stares, or worse yet, pontification. But I’m happy to report that I encountered neither.

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Nor did we encounter any resistance in ordering one of the large format dishes the second night after polishing off 11 dishes as a two-top on the first. In fact the kitchen taunted us with sweetbreads, prunes, beech mushrooms and smoked bone marrow — a generous gift; a spa snack while we waited on the prawns.

Wild Santa Barbara spot prawns, they were. Cooked over hot river stones. Too many of them to count.

The heads were dusted in lemongrass powder and fried. Strategically seated with three girls who were at first curious-but-mildly-grossed-out and later only grossed out, I was lucky enough to eat most of them.

The bodies were sweet and succulent, especially for fast eaters like me who would sooner throw themselves on hot stones than see these delicate crustaceans linger on them and overcook. And the aroma? Oh, it was just that of lemongrass, coriander, star anise, and a hundred other things I could smell forever.

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To come to Red Medicine just for dessert would be both a tease and an infinitely rewarding proposition, for Kahn remains perhaps the most brilliant pastry chef I’ve ever come across. Good old kecap manis still has a place in his heart, here with bitter chocolate, parsnip puree, toasted oats, soy milk sorbet and the craziest-looking spaghetti string of brown butter gel.

Green strawberries go with frozen cream, sorrel, elderflower, and wild chervil. I have a hard time imagining the labor necessary to produce so many different textures and temperatures on the same plate, but a very easy time enjoying all of them.

Something they call peanut croquant is the part of the coconut bavarois that we can’t put down. It’s the dessert that guides us the most clearly towards southeast Asia, with flavors of coffee, condensed milk and Thai basil.

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Now in my head I’ve been guided back home. Not my first home, necessarily. Just to one of the many places to which I’ve attached that title over the years.

In certain parts of California, redwood trees predominate the same way pine trees do in east Texas. So Chef Kahn decided to make an ice of them. Then he thought to put that ice in a huge glass bowl, covering the top with a thin layer of almond praline dusted with white chocolate powder.

You break through to discover orange blossom bubbles and redcurrant pâte de fruit scattered over the ice, and you find the ice filling just one half of the bottom. The other side holds a silky jasmine cremeux.

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My old apartment was just down the hill from a national park full of redwood trees. I used to waste away my days reading and writing in their shade. On my walk home, I’d stop and smell the jasmine blossoms that peeked out over my neighbors’ fences. That became — and remains — my favorite smell.

I don’t remember when that was, actually. But I suppose it doesn’t matter. One way or another, I can always go back.

 
 
 
 
  1. Porthos Sep 12, 2012 01:11 PM

    Great report! Gorgeous pictures. Best photos of the Santa Barbara prawns I've seen yet!

    Regarding the porridge, I don't think there is chicken skin in it. Genius idea (or was it wishful thinking) but I always assumed the brown condiment next to the hazelnuts was the ginseng ingredient listed on the menu.

    9 Replies
    1. re: Porthos
      tupac17616 Sep 12, 2012 01:17 PM

      Thank you! I was told it was a chicken skin-hazelnut crumble kind of thing.

      1. re: Porthos
        PeterCC Sep 12, 2012 09:11 PM

        I was told there's chicken skin in the porridge as well. I didn't get a distinct chicken-skin taste out of the crumble (the hazelnut overpowered it) but why say it's in there if it isn't?

        1. re: PeterCC
          Porthos Sep 12, 2012 09:21 PM

          Maybe there is chicken skin in the hazelnut.

          I thought tupac was referring to the brown bits next to the hazelnut which is definitely not chicken skin.

          Next time I'm back, I'll be sure to look for chicken skin in the hazelnut.

          1. re: Porthos
            PeterCC Sep 12, 2012 09:36 PM

            What are the brown bits? They looked like bonito flakes to me when I had the congee, but I thought they might have been the chicken skin too. Could it be dried ginseng? The menu doesn't list that many ingredients for the dish and unfortunately identify none the crumbles or the green vegetation or sauce, and I don't remember them being described when served the dish.

            1. re: PeterCC
              Porthos Sep 12, 2012 09:43 PM

              I found them a bit bitter so I assumed ginseng. Since I don't mix, I usually avoid that condiment.

              Looking at the excellent photo, there are some brown bits in the hazelnut that could be chicken skin. Maybe that's why it's the best tasting toasted hazelnut crumble ever!

              The green condiment if I remember correctly is pureed broccoli tops.

              1. re: Porthos
                PeterCC Sep 12, 2012 10:03 PM

                Ah, thanks on the green sauce. What about the chopped green herbs?

                1. re: PeterCC
                  Porthos Sep 12, 2012 10:08 PM

                  Think they were both broccoli tops. You can see the floretes in the green pile between and uni and possible ginseng.

                  The other one I think is more finely pureed broccoli tops.

                  1. re: Porthos
                    tupac17616 Sep 12, 2012 11:40 PM

                    Yup, broccoli puree and broccoli florets

            2. re: Porthos
              uhockey Sep 12, 2012 09:36 PM

              I didn't hear chicken skin, though it would fit the flavor profile.

              http://endoedibles.com

        2. l
          linus Sep 12, 2012 04:28 PM

          how was the restaurant? food good?

          4 Replies
          1. re: linus
            Porthos Sep 12, 2012 04:27 PM

            "We actually went two nights in a row because the first was so impressive"

            1. re: Porthos
              l
              linus Sep 12, 2012 05:12 PM

              silly me. i must have forgotten that part. hopefully, i'll remember when i'm finished reading.

              1. re: linus
                Servorg Sep 12, 2012 05:40 PM

                “As I ate the oysters with their strong taste of the sea and their faint metallic taste that the cold white wine washed away, leaving only the sea taste and the succulent texture, and as I drank their cold liquid from each shell and washed it down with the crisp taste of the wine, I lost the empty feeling and began to be happy and to make plans.”

                1. re: linus
                  tupac17616 Sep 12, 2012 11:49 PM

                  Super funny.

            2. j
              jaykayen Sep 12, 2012 05:07 PM

              Gorgeous pics. I love RM, too, can't wait to go back, it's been a year.

              1. n
                ns1 Sep 12, 2012 05:13 PM

                WOW, that presentation is stunning.

                1. PeterCC Sep 12, 2012 09:13 PM

                  Fantastically well-written review with awesome photos. The whole package!

                  1 Reply
                  1. re: PeterCC
                    tupac17616 Sep 12, 2012 11:46 PM

                    thanks peter!

                  2. Delucacheesemonger Sep 18, 2012 01:27 PM

                    Thanks for report, made me feel l was there again. Loved it as well.

                    1 Reply
                    1. re: Delucacheesemonger
                      tupac17616 Sep 20, 2012 11:16 AM

                      Thanks, glad you enjoyed it!

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