The Sportsman Revisited (Seasalter)

[zuriga1]

We had lunch at The Sportsman on Saturday, and sadly we came away a bit disappointed. The very inventive and delicious food we remembered was not what we were offered or ate. When my best memory of a meal is the bread and butter, then something isn't right.

I know it wasn't the famed tasting menu, but we didn't eat that last time either. The menu seemed fairly limited last weekend and very heavy with fish items, which isn't a terrible thing but I had a fish starter and didn't want a fish main. I was charged £15 for a very tiny, warm lobster that had very little taste. My main of chicken in truffle cream sauce was fine (it came with delicious roast potatoes and two veg), but the dish was nothing I couldn't have done myself. My husband did a bit better with a very good starter of smoked mackerel with Bramley apple jelly. His smoked salmon dish was very ordinary and lacking creativity.

We didn't even bother with a pudding. When I skip pudding, it means there was nothing that appealed to me, and that is a rare occurence.

I'm not sorry we travelled to Seasalter because I got to sit on the beach on a glorious, warm and sunny day, but I don't think we'll be back to the restaurant anytime soon.

[ManInTransit]

That is a shame - the Sportsman seems to receive almost universal accolades.

We at there last month and had a fantastic meal. First time there but the poached Oysters, slipsole in seaweed butter, mackerel dish and chocolate and milk ice cream dessert were all incredible. Just shows I suppose that just the day you go and the dishes you order can have such an effect.

[Harters]

We had the slip sole last year. An absolute belter - fried, drizzled with salty butter (probably the butter they make themselves). That's it. Simples.

[Harters]

By the by, we were chatting with Philip Harris - the brother who runs front of house - and, perhaps surprisingly, he seemed more interested in talking about the Good Food Guide than Michelin. His take, with which I'd entirely agree, is that once you get to a score of 4, customers should be expected to see consistency in delivery. Sportsman has a 6 in the Guide's 2012 edition (my 2013 hasnt arrived yet). Perhaps next trip to Kent I need to try out their 6 scoring neighbours - Apicus at Cranbrook & Reads at Faversham (although I've always been put oiff by the latter for including fecking foody quotes on its online menu - whoever thought that one up should be repeatedly stabbed with a fork until they grovel for forgiveness)

[zuriga1]

Unfortunately, I guess for us, the slipsole and the chocolate and milk ice cream weren't on Saturday's menu. I have a feeling that had we been there another day, my criticisms wouldn't be so harsh... or maybe my expectations were just too high as our last meal was so heavenly. There was a plum tart and I remember some sort of warm, chocolate mousse. The mousse was probably quite good. I did love the roast potatoes... just delicious.

[Harters]

Oh, I do know that feeling. We had two great meals at Hibiscus (once in Ludlow, once in London). Third time we went was disappointing - just no "wow" factor whcih you'd expect at 2* level and that price point.

[Harters]

That's so disappointing, June. We were there in April of last year when we had a very good meal (not the tasting menu). Straightforward cooking but absolutely top-notch ingredients.

I'll not be passing through Dover until next spring and would have hoped to eat at Seasalter again but will keep my eyes on the review boards to see if your bad experience is echoed.

Thanks for posting.

[zuriga1]

I can't call it a 'bad' meal, John, but I didn't enjoy it like the last time. The ingredients were top-notch but maybe what was being served just didn't suit me that day. Maybe I should have had the lamb.