Question from San Francisco 'hound
Hello hounds: My wife and I will be visiting Montreal next month. The food choices are many and our nights are few so we'd like some advice. We plan on trying Au Pied de Cochon. It's stuff we cannot get in CA and we've heard raves. Is the hype justified?
We'd like a different kind of experience on another night. Grain de Sel looks interesting -- their menu looks innovative. We got a rec for L'Express which looks more classic. Any opinions to offer on these two? Or any additional recs for Quebec-style, local-driven choices where we won't find too many tourists?
Looking forward to your suggestions.
I've never heard about "Le Grain de Sel", a quick search here does not reveal any significant reviews or any incentive to go there.
Au Pied de Cochon is fun, over-the-top indulgence, you need to go there with an open stomach and open hearth (and open wallet !!) I go there once a year, sit at the bar, and order the daily specials suggested by the cooks ... make a reservation to sit at the bar in front of the kitchen if possible; an alternative would be "Joe Beef".
L'Express is french bistro classics, fun, but not inventive but solid and predictible; other suggestions in the same style : Lemeac or Laloux (later is a bit more "upscale") or Cocagne
For "quebec-style", I would suggest the following :
La Salle A Manger, Le Chien Fumant, Hotel Herman, 3 Petits Bouchons, Le Comptoir Charcuteries et Vins, 5eme Péché, ...
I think you should try APDC. It's packed with tourists, but that hasn't really changed the food or prices dramatically. Still one of the most unusual (and delicious) restaurants in the world, and Montrealers still go in droves (if we can get reservations).
Grain de Sel is one of those tripadvisor mysteries. It has been around for a long, long time, but I don't know anyone who has been. It could be good, but it's in a very strange location. I would stick with Max's suggestions. They are my top recs as well. But really, the most "quebec-style" restaurants are APDC and Joe Beef. For more local market-driven food I'd maybe consider Tuck Shop.
Au Pied de Cochon is worth the hype - I just ate there a few weeks back, and it was as good as always. You need to reserve now, though (and ask to sit at the bar). While it is also substantial, food-wise, I would go with Joe Beef for a second evening. Of course, it also depends on which evenings you are here, as not every place is open every evening, so plan accordingly. And all of Max's choices below are also solid.
au pied de cochon is a great experience, if your not at all health conscious.
the restaurants mentioned above are all great, but recently i've been most satisifed with le filet, 400 coups, and bouillon bilk
1. Au Pied de Cochon is one of hte most unique restaurants anywhere. An incredilbe sense of celebration that is unparellelled. Be sure you love fois gras, rich food, organ meats. Forget steak. Great wines (but you are from CA and that's not unique). Very Quebecois. Try the PIed Au Cochon (pig's feet)-the one with teh foid gras. T he specials are great. Boudin tart is fabulous as an appetizer (if you can handle blood sausage). The beet salad is great. If they have the duck special it's amazing with fois gras and a rich cream and fois gras sauce. There are many more normal dishes. They have great fish specials. Be sure to get your reservation early. It's very fun to eat at the bar.
2. I have been reluctant to try Grain de Sel-no Zagat rating is not necessarily an indictment, but I am concerned. I don't fully trust tripadvisor in Montreal.
3. La Porte is amazing. 28 Zagat rating. The chef is a Bretogne with amazing skills, particularly in fish. The best fish restaurant in London and New York (Eric Ripert's Bernardin) are chefs from Bretogne. I would definately go there. NOthing like that in SF. Grain de Sel I think will be more like what you have. His presentation is very elegant. The atmosphere is so-so. Wine list good, and very old world style. We had a burgundy that was very well structured with the traditional cherry flavors, but the restraint of old world.
3. You mentioned L'Express: Very decent French style Bistro-would be quite average in Paris, but it's very nice place to go. High quality chefing. Nothing similar in SF that I remember (I spent much time in SF and lived there). You can eat there unitl 3 in the am i think. It's a very nice experience, and a bit unique for North America. I like it better than comparable New York French Bistros.
4. DON'T MISS: Mario Navarette's "Raza". This is arguably the best resto in MOntreal. I think it used to have a 28 Zagat rating. This is amazing Nuevo Latino high cuisine. You can bring your own wine. The chef trained at Baloud in NYC. He is Peruvian. His "Madre" restaurant has one of hte best Brunches in Montreal. Amazing Peruvian style food. "Raza" is perhaps the best restaurant in Montreal but doesn't get the right acclaim. 7-8 course prix fix meal at aroudn $70ish (can't get that in SF). If he still has the Terrunyo Carmenere-probably the best winery out of Chile and the Carmenere grape. This grape was used a century or so ago in Bordeaux wines. It seemed to have been reborn in Chile, and there's a smidge in Italy too. But Terrunyo is icnredible and cheap. You can bring your own wine here (they may have changed-they may not offer their own-and you HAVE to bring your own wine-check when you call them).
Let me know what you think. What's your faves in SF? I can match your taste a bit better if you let me know.
Thanks for these terrific replies. I will be sure to post reviews when we return home.
Our fav places these days for fine-dining in San Francisco are Saison and Atelier Crenn. Mission Chinese Food blows me away every time I go, though the chef just decamped to Manhattan to open a similar place there. Pity, that. We also love La Ciccia for Sardinian food. Manresa is also a favorite in Los Gatos.
We're confirmed at APDC and we're leaning toward La Porte and perhaps Comptoir Charcuterie et Vin or 3 Petit Bouchons
Atelier Crenn and Saison seem very interesting. I will have to try them. Mission Chinese-the menu is very enticing, though I have ot admit, the only time I have ever eaten Americanized Chinese (in my old age state) is in San Francisco at Yang Sing where the departure from authentic is somewhat minimal.
I don't know about Comptoir or 3 Petit Bouchons. Some reviews in Yelp suggest that Comptoir has a heavy anti-Anglo attitude. Such attitudes can really make for a bad evening. Both restaurants didn't seem to have English translations-also a sign that you may get a lot of resentful or bad service. Be sure to say "Pardonez-moi. Je suis des etats-uni. Je-ne parles pas beacoup francais. Est-ce que vous m'aidez?" Then they will know you are from the states and that you tried to speak their language. Most, at that point, will treat you well, though not all of them. Remember, in America, people who want English only are regarded as nuts. Here they are the ruling party, so be aware.
If your interest is "charcuterie" be sure to go to a butcher in that neighborhood called "Hungroise". This is a major charcuterie town and the butchers on St. Laurent have amazing smoked meats and sausage that they produce themselves. Much better than the restaurants who are a little more dilitantish at that. At Hungroise, ask for some dried smoked ribs. They make awesome snacks and don't need to be cooked. They also have cooked bacon, which will be incredible. They have other smoked meats and sausages, and you can get a sandwich there for less than $6.
I hope you have time for Raza. Amazing, and might be in line with your tastes.
Yes, that's always been our strategy in France; start in French and shift to English, and we've experienced the type of 'discrimination' you describe in Paris. It happens only rarely but, as you say, it can ruin your evening. I speak enough broken French to get by.
We will try Hungroise for sure. Raza looks very interesting, too. We only have three nights so narrowing will be tough.
Thanks again for all of your recs.
It would be hard to find something like Crenn or Saison in Montreal - same for Manresa - as all three are very "California" just as much as Joe Beef or APdC is very "Montreal." It would be foolish to try Cali cuisine in Montreal since you've named off the two best (along with benu) restaurants in the state as your favorites - just go with the restaurant in Montreal that is "Best things we can't get in California" - in which case I'd urge you to look at Joe Beef along with APdC.
I personally would take Au Pied de Cochon over Joe Beef. Also-for a "not in San Francisco" experience, La Porte with a great Britagne chef is quite unique as is Raza with a highly skilled Peruvian chef trained in the Baloud machine. Joe Beef IS uniquely Quebecois, but not consistantly so amazingly good. Anthony Bourdain chose Au Pied as one of his favorite restaurants anywhere in one of his episodes, I beleive. Zagats isn't perfect, but they give ApDC a 27 vs. 25 for Joe Beef. In Montreal, 25 is about a 21-23 in San Fran. Enjoy Montreal. And be sure to try pastries at Olivier Portier if you can-great pastry chef-I believe Parisian trained. Perhaps even at the great Parisian pastry shop Laduree.
Thanks, foodlovergeneral. Raza was awesome!
I highly recommend going on a Wednesday evening, when you have the chef's attention virtually to yourself. The flavor profiles and key ingredients were Peruvian, the preparations French.
That evening, we started with black bean soup with queso fresco
followed by yellow quinoa with pickled vegetables, butternut squash puree and sweet bay shrimp
followed by Magret duck with lime, honey and coriander and mini lime meringues that melted on the tongue, delivering a drop of lime zestiness (so good, I asked for a few to take home)
followed by veal cheek with cauliflower mousseline and portabello powder
for dessert, the chef created a molecular gastronomy work of art on the table photographed).
Unique and highly recommended!
We'll definitely return.