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Sep 3, 2012 02:41 PM

Paris for 4 days- need two more recs

I will be in Paris for 4 days- Friday, Saturday, Sunday, and then the following Friday.

The first friday- Vivant (have reservation)

Saturday- need recommendation of somewhere with good real french food, but not stodgy, fun atmosphere, but not too much emphasis on scene. Somewhere between 30-60 euros pp on food is ideal. Looked at Verjus,La Gazetta (very mixed reviews but looks like a nice ambiance), Le Galopin- seems to have tiny portions of mostly vegetables but I could be wrong obviously seems to get great reviews. And will be someplace I'll be able to get a reservation at now for this Saturday.

Sunday- Terroir Parisien (not yet confirmed) or walk in to Les Cocottes

Following Friday- need a recommendation- similar to Saturday's requirements but does not need to have as exciting of a scene. Was thinking of L'Office...

Suggestions would be much appreciated.

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  1. Also- i live in NYC so nothing too american/new york or trying to be american!

    1. Métropolitain on the rue Jouy in the 4th. Great food but bad acoustics....can be a bit noisy on Friday and Saturday nights.

      13 Replies
      1. re: Parnassien

        Thanks. Food looks good, creative. How does it compare to places like Verjus and Caius? Also, made a reservation at Saturne for the following Friday...

        1. re: NYtoCAtoParisFoodie

          Verjus, I don't like. If you were complaining about small portions at Le Galopin, you will be howling at Verjus. The bill is pretty painful too. But you do get to speak English.

          Caius is one of my faves. Much much recommended. And the 42 € "formule" (with no supplements) is a bargain!!

          Saturne, excellent. But oops, it might not qualify under your no-newyorkais criterion.

          1. re: Parnassien

            Ok great thanks. Will try for Caius on Saturday. Seems to be a big hit all around. Hopefully I can get in! There was no availability on

            1. re: NYtoCAtoParisFoodie

              Between Terroir Parisien and Les Cocottes for Sunday which would you recommend? Do you think Vivant is a good first night in town choice?

              1. re: NYtoCAtoParisFoodie

                I'm pretty sure Caius is closed on Saturday. But its wine-bar annex Zinc Caius might be open, at least for Saturday lunch.

                I haven't been to Les Cocottes for a long time. But seems to remain popular among the guidebook set.
                Terroir Parisien, the food is very French and the decor is very contemporary. I like a lot and it's always on my Sunday shortlist.

                And yes, Vivant or l'Office would be great 1st nighters.

                1. re: Parnassien

                  Ok great. Now just need to finalize Saturday night. Metropolitan looks great but not sure its special enough to meet a friend i havent seen in years. want something slightly more on the festive side but again not much above 50 euros pp for food...

                  1. re: NYtoCAtoParisFoodie

                    For meeting old friends, Macéo near the Palais Royal.

                    1. re: Parnassien

                      :) You took the words right out of my mouth!

                        1. re: John Talbott

                          My friend suggested le resto d'en face, but its closed saturdays. it looked like a good pick though.

                      1. re: Parnassien

                        Thanks for Caius recommendation, just back and was very pleased.

                        1. re: Delucacheesemonger

                          I am mightily pleased that you were pleased. Your opinion counts for a lot! Except when it comes to L'Ami Louis (evil grin). And three cheers for Caius!!!

              2. As stated before by me re: Au Petit Marguery, it was a dreadful experience for me, mostly service related. Frog's legs were great, all else not.
                While Saturne is a almost a NY experience, it is done with charm and good grace. If you know Vetri in Philadelphia, this might be considered a french food and location version of that. l happen to like the place a lot. One of the reasons is the extensive but odd wine list of many french bio wines.
                Get a res in the back big back room, if you are in the smaller front room, people will be walking over you all night to go to smoke outside or to wait for their table.

                10 Replies
                1. re: Delucacheesemonger

                  Too bad about au petit marguery. What are your quintessentially-Paris favorites?
                  Re Saturne- Thank you for the tip. Very good to know. I made the reservation online, but hopefully I will be able to convey that request adequately in person next Friday!

                  1. re: NYtoCAtoParisFoodie

                    Call Saturne about your table preferance a few days before your reservation. I mean: don't wait until you arrive at the door on D Day.
                    My fave seats are the bar stools (with back, quite comfy) at the wine bar with view of the kitchen. On the one hand, you avoid the din of the room. On the other hand, you see the kitchen action first hand.

                    1. re: Parigi

                      Thanks for your input. So you prefer the bar stools to the back room?

                      1. re: NYtoCAtoParisFoodie

                        The bar is on one side of the large back room. It is part of the back room. Sorriest I was not clear.

                        1. re: NYtoCAtoParisFoodie

                          Bar stools are in the back room also, and unlike lovely Parigi, l prefer the seating on the wall parallel to the street, facing away from the street, l hate any bar stool.
                          Chez Josephine Dumonet, Chez Denise, Chez Casimir, Dans les Landes, Auberge du 15th, L'Ami Louis are some other ones l like.

                          1. re: Delucacheesemonger

                            I find myself in almost complete accord with DCM; back room table seating at Saturne (some of the tables there have a view into the kitchen), Josephine Chez Dumonet, Dans Les Landes and especially Auberge du 15 . My main discord is L'Ami Louis. My last meal at Au Petit Marguery (May 2012) was just not as good as years past. I fear they may be coasting on past glory.

                      2. re: NYtoCAtoParisFoodie

                        although i'm a native parisien, I've yet to figure out what is quintessentially parisien ... Paris is an ever-changing, vibrant kaleidoscope of ethnicities, cultures, and trends

                        Chez Denise in Les Halles might appeal ....but, being "quintessentially" parisien, it's closed on Saturday and Sunday

                        1. re: Parnassien

                          Thanks. I will research those reccomendations.
                          as it stands now (all confirmed):
                          fri- vivant
                          sat- _________
                          sun- terroir parisien
                          next fri- saturne

                          im wondering if these are too redundant or if i should replace one of these (besides saturday when its closed) with resto d'en face which did look like a nice mix between the traditional and modern french cooking?

                          1. re: NYtoCAtoParisFoodie

                            two more recs for your saturday night, inspired by your "quintessential" remark... both are touristy and very parisien at the same time... not mind-blowing food but festive and memorable experiences:

                            La Closerie des Lilas on the boulevard Montparnasse near l'Observatoire... 3 in one (restaurant, brasserie and piano bar)... restaurant is better but pricier than than the brasserie and, for before and after, the Piano Bar (90% local clientele) is superb

                            La Coupole on the boulevard Montparnasse across from Vavin métro... recent, very favourable review on this board ...

                            1. re: NYtoCAtoParisFoodie

                              fri- vivant
                              I haven't heard how the new chef is doing at Vivant, I myself will be going tmrw and will report back.