Pirouette in the 1st: Perfection on the beaten path, hidden in plain view.
- John Talbott Sep 1, 2012 07:41 AM
Recently, several posters have commented on places some of us eat at that are not on "the beaten path." Well, how about this one? Smack at Les Halles, like Poe's Purloined Letter or Ugati's Letters of Transit Pirouette, 5, rue Mondetour in the 1st, 01.40.26.47.81, closed Sundays, (Metro: Etienne Marcel) is a gem sitting in the sea of dreck, flotsam & jetsam merrily going its own way. Opened just 6 days ago, it has the coolest decor, the nicest staff and the best eel, langoustines and baba I've had in a very long time.
The not so pseudonymous Olivier Morteau in “Food Business: La face cachée de la gastronomie française” said the formula for a good restaurant in Paris was to "find a culinary dessert, a bold chef and set easy prices." Well here you have it. What could be more on and off the beaten track for good food than Les Halles?
Ms. L. and I lunched yesterday at "Pirouette" and were more than pleased. The decor is modern with blond wood, floor to ceiling wine cabinets and 2 level seating. There is an affordable lunch with 2 choices for €15, but we chose to order à la carte to try this Meurice alumnus' specialties. Our entrées were gnocchis with sliced pumpkin and parmesan and smoked pork belly...generous and delicious, and their dressed up version of "alouettes sans tête" which featured minced veal and chunks of foie gras wrapped in lardo de colonata in a mushroom sauce.
Mains were pluma d'Iberica, which is the shoulder end of the pork loin, served with roasted sweet peppers and a side of thinly sliced roasted potatoes and pigeon royale which was the breast roasted with a rosy interior and the remainder minced, roasted and wrapped in a lightly wilted sucrine leaf. Both were better than good.
The service was pleasant, the wine list varied and explanatory; this may be the best new opening of the Fall.
Thanks to the constant searching of JT for this find.