Roaming in Rome for a few days (long post, multiple questions)
(I started writing this topic at least a dozen time, and always loose it by closing my browser or I did not find a way to express what I wanted to ask! sorry in advance )
I (well groomed, 40-ish single male from Montreal :-) ) will be spending a few days (12) in Rome in a couple of weeks; I have rented an apartment not too far from Campo di Fiore on Via Guilia.
I've read extensively this forum, and various blogs; I don't have a set list of restaurants; I will play it on the field (but making reservation in case I really want to go to some places after seeing them live)
For the first 2 days (saturday, sunday ):
I land in Rome on Saturday morning, and I expect to be settled in the apartment by 11am.
- I don't know if it will be too late to rush to the market at Campo di Fiore to get some vegetables/fruits; if too late, what are the options to stock up on the basics (pasta, cheese, sauce, wine, some veggies?) in the area (Roscioli for salume and cheese?)?
- What about eating around Campo di Fiore (or piazza ; something simple, honest (don't care about being too touristy), as long as I can sit outside and enjoy the view; I have enough time to get to the "better" restaurants in the following days. (what about Obika?)
Now for the other questions :
One thing that I'm looking for in all restaurants is a good wine list, either small and quirky local wines, or large with good selection on all regions of Italy); I don't mind ordering the house wine when eating simple things...
- Modern Italian cuisine: What are my options for modern Italian/Roman cuisine ? The only hit I have is Metamorfosi (minchilli's review looks very nice); other suggestions ? (reference, I really like Agape Substance in Paris)
- Football watching on Sunday (AS roma is playing in Rome on the 16th): I will try to get a ticket, but if I cannot, what is the best place to watch football?
- Wine stores: I think I can get decent wine from pretty much any store, but what I'm looking is wine from the Lazio region (we don't have many of those here in Montreal), and if possible "natural" wines (reference I have is Enoteca Trucchi, from Parla Food webby)
- Best place to just "chill-out", in the afternoon, I want to sit down, order drink(s) for a couple of hours, and do some people watching, reading, and just enjoy life; It can be on a big Piazza (Navona, ... ) or a smaller one ? and/or at what point the waiters will be pissed if I don't order "too much" (for example, I was at a side street bar (not packed) in Montreal last week-end for 3 hours in the afternoon and ordered a few drinks with no issue).
- (weird one) Are there good "Vatican-ish" Tratoria ? where the common "Men of the church" (or nuns) go to ?
- (small question) What time that most coffee place open in the morning ? I might be jet-lagged for a couple of days and decide to go out real early to catch the awakening of the city.
- (dumb question) Dress code for wandering around and sitting down at lunch time (in the evening, I usually change to something more formal) : for example, If I decide to go to Pierluigi (the restaurant that pops to mind right now) and there is room outside, will I be looked at strangely wearing Bermudas, nice shortsleave shirt, ... ?
- (and a last one ) Anything worth it near the MAXXI or the MACRO museums ? or do they have good enough caféteria ?
I will come back a write a full report, pictures, impressions and all that !!
Thank you very much.
"Wine stores: I think I can get decent wine from pretty much any store, but what I'm looking is wine from the Lazio region."
When in Rome recently we stopped in at Palatium Enoteca (Via Frattina, 94... not to far from the Spanish Steps), they carry nothing but products from the Lazio region including wine, olive oil, etc... You can also order wine in addition to purchase bottles and they serve food. We did not order any food so I cannot comment on it but the staff (once properly warmed up) were informative about the wines and were willing to share their favourite picks.
I quite enjoyed the couple of hours we spent here sampling a few of the Lazio whites they had on offer.
That's my neighborhood every March/April.
Most mornings I walk to the Piazza Farnese, buy a copy of the Financial Times and sit outside at the Caffe Farnese on the alley that leads to the Campo de' Fiori (cappuccino and a pastry). Best early-morning people watching on the planet: nuns, priests, priests going to grad school, novitiates, French bureaucrats, men with doggies, women with doggies, gypsies, unfortunates, tourists. The list goes on. It fires me up for the rest of the day.
Abbey Theatre off Piazza Navona should satisfy your football needs. Scholars Lounge, a short walk to the Via Del Plebiscito, is another hotbed of sports activity. But seriously, finding a place without the game would be nigh impossible.
Lots of good restaurants within walking distance of the neighborhood. Keep in mind that the little electric 116 bus is your friend.
>> (weird one) Are there good "Vatican-ish" Tratoria ? where the common "Men of the church" (or nuns) go to ?<<
Sor'Eva, in the piazza della Rovere, feeds a lot of seminarians. I've eaten there (though I'm not of the cloth, the persuasion, etc) and enjoyed the food. It's very basic Roman dishes, fresh and served with good cheer.
Ciao Maximilien, you will have fun, i can already see that. Am on the road myself and don't have a good connection so will just answer/mention a couple of things that jumped at me. I am sure you will get many & detailed answers to everything from others!
Campo di fiori market will still be going strong (till at least 1:30) but i wouldn't get many things there. Maybe the fresh produce, but for pasta, cheese, wine go to either roscioli or beppe e suoi formaggi. For sitting and people watching and unwinding around campo - i understand the sentiment and suggest you pick any of the places that seem nice to you. I wouldn't suggest any of the places foodwise (incl. obika), so really, just go by how you feel.
If you are interested in wines, skip the housewines.
I love metamorfosi, but i wouldn't describe it as Roman. Modern, yes. Local products, yes. Definitely go. They have great lunch offers, too. Also in that direction is Glass. All oro is another fine dining establishment with a young chef who modernizes things - he might be the closest to Roman dishes among the three.
Wine buying: enoteca trucchi is small but fine. Bulzoni is big and good. There is an aperitivo with by the glass wines, too. These two are great for natural wines. Local wines - best selection at palatium (buying as well as drinking). Not necessarily local and/or natural focus, but two other good places for drinking and eating lightly are Gocetto and barrique. Of course Roscioli.
Most cafes open at 6, latest 7.
Katie parla has good options near both museums in her app (you need that app!).
Great roman trattoria with the best trattoria wine list (a lot of naturals there) at great prices is cesare al casaletto.