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Aug 27, 2012 03:16 PM

Dinner near La Fenice in Venice

On our third night in Venice, my wife and I will be attending La Traviata at La Fenice (it makes me smile just to think of it). The curtain rises at 7:00 pm, and I would rather have a late post-theater dinner nearby, but I have the sense that Venetian kitchens close relatively early. We hope to dine at Trattoria Antiche Carampane and Osteria La Bottega ai Promessi Sposi the previous nights. Thank you for any suggestions.

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  1. True that the good sit down places in Venice tend to close their kitchen by 10 or 10:30pm and by that time, the dining room is pretty much winding down. The exceptions are for Friday and Saturday nights and the weather is warm (nothing beyond the middle of October) when many restaurants are still busy, especially those in the center of the city. Given all that, it might not be a good idea to eat a full three course dinner that late, therefore, I would go to simple trattorias/osterias. If proximity is your number one criteria, my first choice is Vino Vino, a simpler and much less expensive outpost of the old-fashioned Antico Martini. Pretty good food, cozy ambience with a great post performance buzz. No problem ordering just one plate, etc and you won't be rushed because it opens until very late. It gets a crowd from La Fenice, especially on weekends, therefore, good idea to make yourself over there before everyone else decent on it. Right next to La Fenice is Taverna La Fenice, expensive though not as expensive as Antico Martini and more fun for people watching. The food is decent to good, but not 'value' oriented. A little further, about 5 minute walk if one doesn't get lost is Trattoria da Fiore off the Campo Santo Stefano. In fact, the whole campo is lively during warm evenings. Open until 10pm but on weekends during warmer months, they take reservations past that time and it is lively way way past eleven. Two minutes down the same street is the very modest but pretty good, Osteria alle Botteghe which stays open later. Moving closer to San Marco, a good fall back is da Aciugheta, informal, inexpensive, genuine despite the hoards of tourists and open everyday until midnight. One of the best restaurant between La Fenice and San Marco is Osteria San Marco with an enoteca that one can have some cicchetti. It should be open until around 11pm but check as operating hours depend on the season. If one has the stamina, especially, if one is staying on the other side of the Rialto bridge, I would head over to Bancogiro. Open late, good food, lively atmosphere, especially on weekends when the whole area is one big party. And the outside seating on the loggia facing the Grand Canal is unique. I've strolled from La Fenice to that area in about 15 minutes.
    Our experience with La Fenice is that post performance is pretty quiet on weekday evenings where as it its totally the opposite after Friday/Saturday during warm weather evenings. Have a great time at the opera. La Fenice is one of the most beautiful opera house in the world. Have a spritz during the intermission in the second floor grand room. The wine and spritz are quite reasonably priced.