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Aug 27, 2012 03:16 PM
Discussion

Dinner near La Fenice in Venice

On our third night in Venice, my wife and I will be attending La Traviata at La Fenice (it makes me smile just to think of it). The curtain rises at 7:00 pm, and I would rather have a late post-theater dinner nearby, but I have the sense that Venetian kitchens close relatively early. We hope to dine at Trattoria Antiche Carampane and Osteria La Bottega ai Promessi Sposi the previous nights. Thank you for any suggestions.

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  1. True that the good sit down places in Venice tend to close their kitchen by 10 or 10:30pm and by that time, the dining room is pretty much winding down. The exceptions are for Friday and Saturday nights and the weather is warm (nothing beyond the middle of October) when many restaurants are still busy, especially those in the center of the city. Given all that, it might not be a good idea to eat a full three course dinner that late, therefore, I would go to simple trattorias/osterias. If proximity is your number one criteria, my first choice is Vino Vino, a simpler and much less expensive outpost of the old-fashioned Antico Martini. Pretty good food, cozy ambience with a great post performance buzz. No problem ordering just one plate, etc and you won't be rushed because it opens until very late. It gets a crowd from La Fenice, especially on weekends, therefore, good idea to make yourself over there before everyone else decent on it. Right next to La Fenice is Taverna La Fenice, expensive though not as expensive as Antico Martini and more fun for people watching. The food is decent to good, but not 'value' oriented. A little further, about 5 minute walk if one doesn't get lost is Trattoria da Fiore off the Campo Santo Stefano. In fact, the whole campo is lively during warm evenings. Open until 10pm but on weekends during warmer months, they take reservations past that time and it is lively way way past eleven. Two minutes down the same street is the very modest but pretty good, Osteria alle Botteghe which stays open later. Moving closer to San Marco, a good fall back is da Aciugheta, informal, inexpensive, genuine despite the hoards of tourists and open everyday until midnight. One of the best restaurant between La Fenice and San Marco is Osteria San Marco with an enoteca that one can have some cicchetti. It should be open until around 11pm but check as operating hours depend on the season. If one has the stamina, especially, if one is staying on the other side of the Rialto bridge, I would head over to Bancogiro. Open late, good food, lively atmosphere, especially on weekends when the whole area is one big party. And the outside seating on the loggia facing the Grand Canal is unique. I've strolled from La Fenice to that area in about 15 minutes.
    Our experience with La Fenice is that post performance is pretty quiet on weekday evenings where as it its totally the opposite after Friday/Saturday during warm weather evenings. Have a great time at the opera. La Fenice is one of the most beautiful opera house in the world. Have a spritz during the intermission in the second floor grand room. The wine and spritz are quite reasonably priced.

    8 Replies
    1. re: PBSF

      Thank you for the VERY thoughtful response. We will be there Friday September 25, really look forward to the experience. And the 15 minute stroll afterwards sounds perfect. We will probably go to antiche carampane Saturday, any suggestions for what might be open on Sunday? Thanks again for the good suggestions.

      1. re: richb1

        did you go back to your original thread? PBSF gave you an additional suggestion there.

        1. re: richb1

          Many places are opened Sundays; what specifics are you looking for: area, budget, type of food, ambience?

          1. re: PBSF

            We arrive Friday and leave Monday, am thinking bancagiro Friday after la fenice, antiche carampane Saturday so probably not strictly seafood Sunday and might lean towards pasta. Would find $50-75 per person including a shared bottle of wine reasonable. Enjoy waking so am not limited by location.Thanks again for your advice.

            1. re: richb1

              Open Sundays with a good selection non-seafood pasta and secondi. I would go to Vini da Gigio. The tagliatelle with duck sauce is excellent. Less expensive, Anice Stellato.

              1. re: PBSF

                Thanks again for the suggestions, will report back after the trip

                1. re: richb1

                  To elaborate my "15 minute stroll" from La Fenice to Bancogiro on the San Polo side of the Rialto bridge, that if one doesn't get lost and wander off course. There are numerous routes to get there. Plot one and look for the frequent directional 'yellow Rialto arrow' plaques plastered on the the buildings. Or better if you are staying in a hotel, ask the front desk to help. I've heard Google Map is quite helpful.

                  1. re: PBSF

                    Will have google maps and am investing in Michelin map. Staying in airbnb apartment. Thanks