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Hung’s Delicacies – One-Michelin Starred Chiu Chow Braised Meat Specialist in North Point, Hong Kong

l
Lau Aug 25, 2012 06:10 PM

**For full post and pics**: http://www.lauhound.com/2012/08/hungs-delicacies-one-michelin-starred-chiu-chow-braised-meat-specialist-in-north-point-hong-kong/

Hung’s Delicacies 阿鴻小吃 is a well heralded Chiu Chow braised meat specialist restaurant. It’s probably one of the most praised restaurants that I’ve been to in Hong Kong and has received a Michelin Star three years in a row, which is kind of weird considering you don’t associated Michelin Stars with tiny shop specializing in braised meats, which is very middle class type food. The chef-owner, Ah Hung 阿鴻, was a high-level chef for many years at well-known Cantonese restaurants such as Yung Kee and Maxim and finally decided to strike out on his own to create this restaurant.

The restaurant is located far from the main areas of Hong Kong in North Point, which is a mainly residential area. It’s located on a non-descript street that has a lot of restaurants on it. The restaurant is tiny and probably sits 20-25 people. The restaurant walls are plastered with pictures of Ah Hung with various celebrities and awards he’s won.

The wife works as a server and hostess. I’d heard she was mean, but she was pretty nice to me and was telling me what was good. The menu is completely translated into English and while I didn’t hear any English spoken, I’d assume they can speak at least a little bit of English. Also, they are only open Wednesday through Sunday from 1pm to 10pm (I almost made the mistake of going there on a Tuesday but luckily I called). I got there at 12:55pm and there was already a line of 5-6 people and there was probably a line of 10-12 people when I left.

Here’s what I tried:
- Braised Goose (Lu Shui E Pian 鹵水鵝片): This was the reason I came here. Braised meats are a staple of Chiu Chow cuisine; the braising style is called lu wei 鹵味, but Hong Kong they refer to it as lu shui 鹵水. This technique uses a master stock that is constantly re-used (i.e. they keep filling it up). Ah Hung is famous for his master stock and their menu even shows you some of the main ingredients he uses. It was one of the lightest and cleanest tasting master stocks I’ve ever tried. It’s slightly sweet and salty and has this really excellent flavor to it. The goose meat was good, most of the pieces were nicely tender although I thought a few were a little drier than I would like as goose breast can be a little dry since it’s less fatty than other parts of the goose. The vinegar compliments it well and helps cut the fat from the meat. It also comes with fried tofu which also tasted good in the master stock. Overall, I thought it was very good although I’d give a slight nod to Tak Kee because the meat was more tender, but his master stock deserves its praise. Also, if I went again I’d get a mix of this and “marinated goose chopped in pieces” as that was a fattier cut which looked really good (the table next to me ordered it). 8.75/10
- Chua Lam Noodles (Cai Lan Lao Mian 蔡瀾撈麵): Chua Lam is a celebrity food critic personality in Hong Kong, I think he’s been referred to as the Anthony Bourdain of Hong Kong for his pretty liberal views. Ah Hung named this noodle after him because apparently Chua Lam was one of his early fans. Its thin egg noodles stir fried in a mixture of soy sauce and lard with bean sprouts, sesame seeds and green onions. Clearly not something you’re eating for your health. It wasn’t nearly as oily as it sounds, but still had a lot of flavor. The soy sauce they used was slightly sweet and the lard and wok hay from stir frying gave it a really nice flavor. The noodles were really QQ (springy) and cooked perfectly. It came with a small bowl of soup that was quite good. Overall, this was really nice and I’d definitely recommend ordering this. 8.75/10
- Chili Oil: The chili oil here is amazing. It’s the Chiu Chow style with ground up dried shrimp, but they also added whole tiny fish as well. It’s definitely one of the best chili oils I’ve ever had and was really good with the Chua Lam noodles. 9.25/10

Overall, it was very good although my expectations may have been too high given the amount of praise sung about it. That said this is an excellent restaurant and I’d like to come back to try more dishes as I saw a lot of stuff that I would go back to try and I’d also really love to do that private dinner they offer, which you can see here (http://www.hungsdelicacies.com/dinner...)

  1. huiray Aug 25, 2012 06:19 PM

    Just curious - are you eating anything else of special note besides Chiu Chow food on this HK trip?

    3 Replies
    1. re: huiray
      l
      Lau Aug 25, 2012 06:47 PM

      haha yah, but i just posted the chiu chow places first and this is the last one. i did go a little chiu chow heavy in HK this time, not sure why but they all happened to be sort of high on my list of places to try. i've got this big list i compiled over there years and I'm systematically running through it. I'll be moving on to the cantonese places now. also you can't really get chiu chow food in the NY and generally fairly difficult to get in the US, so I always try to eat it when I'm in HK and Singapore

      i've got a huge amount of asia posts to post, so keep an eye out

      1. re: Lau
        huiray Aug 25, 2012 06:55 PM

        Oh, OK. :-) I look forwards to reading those other reports.
        p.s. Nice meals all, in any case.

        1. re: huiray
          l
          Lau Aug 25, 2012 06:58 PM

          yah really good, all the places i went in HK were very solid this time

    2. t
      tbtb18 Aug 26, 2012 02:55 AM

      Just moved to HK from NY. Went to Hung's earlier in the week and I don't think its lu shui 鹵水 met my expectations. (Maybe I'm used to slightly heavier versions?) I thought the squid was subpar, the others were so so.

      On the other hand, the lo mein was excellent, extremely flavorful and excellent texture. The chicken leg tendon was very good too if you like that kind of texture.

      Maybe I am just not used to the lighter tasting lu shui...I am interested to try the private dinner on Tuesdays though, that sounds interesting but too bad it needs like 20+ people...

      5 Replies
      1. re: tbtb18
        l
        Lau Aug 26, 2012 06:42 AM

        yah its a much lighter version than other versions, so the flavoring is more subtle than the regular version. So i could see how people may or may not like that depending on how strongly they like their lu shui flavored. As i've gotten older i've come to appreciate more subtle flavored foods if they're cooked well even though i still love the more heavy handed flavors as well. I think you would probably enjoy the version at tak kee, its closer to the normal version (the lu shui is more heavy handed) and i thought the meat was better than at hung's

        http://www.lauhound.com/2012/08/tak-kee-chiu-chou-restaurant-excellent-chiu-chow-food-in-western-district-hong-kong/

        http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/864721

        didn't try the squid and hadn't heard about it being one of their signature dishes.

        i heard the leg tendon is good as well; i heard the duck tongues, cold fish and chiu chow style cold crab (you have to order the crab ahead of time) were excellent as well

        definitely really liked the lo mein too, i wasn't really sure how it was going to be, but definitely flavored really well

        1. re: Lau
          t
          tbtb18 Aug 26, 2012 07:02 AM

          had the duck tongues, wasn't super impressed - it is nice to have the entire tongue with the 2 soft bones, most other places only serves it with the tip of the tongue.

          didn't try the cold fish and crab, it was a long line up that day too, ran into FT filming a food show at Hung's....

          1. re: tbtb18
            l
            Lau Aug 26, 2012 07:31 AM

            haha so popular

            yah i know you definitely have to order the crab a day ahead of time (the wife told me b/c i tried to order it) and i'm not sure if you have to do the same with the fish. it's the chiu chow style cold ones served with vinegar (or sometimes bean paste with the fish), so you obviously have to like that style

            1. re: Lau
              t
              tbtb18 Aug 26, 2012 07:54 AM

              its like the 鱼饭 right? the cold fish "rice" with no rice...

              1. re: tbtb18
                l
                Lau Aug 26, 2012 08:51 AM

                yah look in my tak kee review and its the fish that are sitting on the counter in their display case showing their cold seafood dishes...the one in chinese that says 凍烏頭 (wu tou is just a kind of fish not the name of the dish) under it in with a price of 108

                http://www.lauhound.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/31.jpg

                i found a blog with a pic it (it ain't pretty, but its quite good

                )

                http://ramblingsandgamblings.blogspot...

      2. Charles Yu Mar 23, 2013 06:27 AM

        I walked past this interesting 'goose only' specialist in the market just behind Langham Place in Mong Kok.

         
        1 Reply
        1. re: Charles Yu
          l
          Lau Mar 23, 2013 07:52 AM

          do you know what it was called?

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