Tinello, Sloane Square/Kensington/Chelsea, London
Burrata here is mostly the rich creamy curdy insides without the solid exterior. The richness tempered by sour and savoury olives, the cream contrasted with an outstanding tomato on bread, a pan con tomate that best some of the Spanish renditions I've had in London. The bread is perfectly toasted, a brief but distinctive crispness, before a medium soft centre. The top has a thin layer of summery tomato -- fresh, bright acidity, a touch of garlic iirc, and that moisture softens only a very thin layer into the bread, before the other contrasting textures come into play. Remarkable.
Risotto is correctly done, precisely al dente -- in each grain of rice, softness before a denser core, pearly and firm. Bound with a smooth creamy starchiness, well flavoured with vegetal borage.
Mackerel, against rocket, grapefruit and olives (iirc). The fish well textured, firm, flavoursome, juicy, the lovely oily flavour of the fish enhanced by the nutty bite of of rocket and the acidity of grapefruit.
Couldn't remember the name of the white wine they selected to match these dishes, but it was well structured, the dry acidity and light tropical fruit complementing each dish well.
A brownie-like chocolate tart was to the point, enhanced by a nice scoop of ice cream.
The wine list looked interesting and seemed somewhat reasonable by the glass for the quality.
Similar to Zucca in terms of quality, perhaps slightly more refined, but one pays accordingly, given the location.
-
If you're looking for similar; Osteria Dell'Arancio near La Famiglia is a superior Italian in a similar price range / area. They also do a supper club type chef's home style cooking event once a month which sounds interesting... (not been myself)
›3 Replies
