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Kotoya Japanese Ramen: A Pictorial Essay

J.L. Aug 2, 2012 01:00 AM

Verdict: Just getting started, and showing some promise...

Tucked into the same mini-mall as Hop Li on Santa Monica Blvd. in West L.A., Kotoya is in its first month of operation. Liquor license is still pending. There is a ramen bar, in addition to tables. Decorated with wooden wall fixtures, the dining room itself is welcoming. The menu here is a bit confusing. It consists of "white" ramen (shoyu), and "red" ramen (miso). The "red" option allows for different levels of spiciness. All broths are pork-based. We ordered one shoyu bowl and one miso bowl (mild spicy). The staff seems ready to answer questions about the menu (which hopefully is a signal that will nudge the management to clarify the menu for future diners).

Sides include soboro-don (rice bowl with roasted chicken and scrambled egg), hayashi meshi (shredded onion with curry beef over rice), hiya-yakko (cold tofu 2 ways: with spicy oil and with bonito flakes+soy sauce), chicken kara-age, and age-dashi tofu. We tried to soboro-don, the hayashi meshi, and the hiya-yakko 2 ways. All three were well-executed, though nothing spectacular (but then again, the sides are not supposed to be the stars in a ramen house).

There are also 3 variations of tsukemen on the menu, but I did not have a chance to try them.

Highlights:
- The chashu itself is just terrific. The pork is perfectly tender, juicy, flavorful, and texturally complex. In a word: Super! The chashu by itself is on par with the best I've had in any ramen-ya in L.A.
- The miso broth, with a hint of spiciness, is quite nice. That broth goes great with the chashu.

But here is where things take a turn. The shoyu broth tasted good on the palate upfront, but lacked depth. The noodles themselves had some "bite", but were uninspiring overall. And unfortunately, the nitamago (flavored egg) was too hard-boiled, and cold! It tasted like it was simply taken out of the fridge, cut in half, and served. I would have really liked a decently prepared hanjuku egg with my shoyu bowl to see if the broth could be taken to the next level with the runny yolk, but alas...

To be fair, Kotoya is in its infancy, and is thus still "feeling its oats", so to speak. But they already serve a really, really nice piece of chashu, which is always good to build on. I have a feeling that I'll probably see improvements on my next visit there. Plus, I still have to try their tsukemen!

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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  1. j
    jsandler RE: J.L. Aug 2, 2012 08:31 AM

    Ddin't notice the tofu dish when I visisted, oh well. My review: http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/861241

    How was the corn in the ramen?

    1. n
      ns1 RE: J.L. Aug 2, 2012 09:22 AM

      " And unfortunately, the nitamago (flavored egg) was too hard-boiled, and cold! It tasted like it was simply taken out of the fridge, cut in half, and served"

      Sounds like Santouka. What is that picture with the corn? Is it just a miso ramen w/ corn?

      12 Replies
      1. re: ns1
        J.L. RE: ns1 Aug 2, 2012 10:14 AM

        The egg at Santouka is at least room temp. The egg at Kotoya is just cold.

        I added corn to my bowl of miso ramen (extra add-on). It's more Sapporo style, but I like it.

        For now, Santouka, Tsujita & Miyata Menji are still my solid picks in West LA for Japanese noodles.

        1. re: J.L.
          n
          ns1 RE: J.L. Aug 2, 2012 10:20 AM

          I've gotten cold ones from Santouka...

          is it just straight up corn or wok fired like Mottainai?

          1. re: ns1
            J.L. RE: ns1 Aug 2, 2012 10:42 AM

            Corn at Kotoya: Straight up.

            Sorry to hear about the cold egg at Santouka. I will try the #7 bowl again, just to, ahem, see how the egg is... Yeah, that's the ticket...

            1. re: J.L.
              n
              ns1 RE: J.L. Aug 2, 2012 11:05 AM

              It's funny how santouka used to be the benchmark, but with the new wave of ramen shops santouka's egg is straight up embarrassing.

              1. re: ns1
                J.L. RE: ns1 Aug 2, 2012 11:26 AM

                But the rest of the components in their bowl, especially the broth, is very very good.

                1. re: J.L.
                  n
                  ns1 RE: J.L. Aug 2, 2012 11:31 AM

                  Yes, this cannot be disputed. Santouka shio special pork will always hold a place in my heart.

                2. re: ns1
                  Porthos RE: ns1 Aug 2, 2012 11:33 AM

                  Funny, I was even thinking the same thing about the egg at Yamadaya yesterday. It's still soft and orange in the middle and not like the cooked through ones at Santouka. But it is not nearly as soft and runny as the ones at Jinya or Tsujita. The bar for those eggs has been raised substantially.

                  1. re: Porthos
                    n
                    ns1 RE: Porthos Aug 2, 2012 12:09 PM

                    On a related note...anyone got a recipe or link on how to make eggs like that?

                    1. re: ns1
                      J.L. RE: ns1 Aug 2, 2012 12:26 PM

                      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-sSni2...

                      1. re: J.L.
                        n
                        ns1 RE: J.L. Aug 2, 2012 12:32 PM

                        That only explains the cooking part. How do you get the soy part, or whatever is causing that marinated egg color?

              2. re: ns1
                l
                la2tokyo RE: ns1 Aug 2, 2012 10:45 AM

                I never understood why, but the ramen toppings in Japan are almost always cold or room temperature. You can go to the highest rated restaurant in the Ramen Database and it will still be cold. Funny considering that they also go to a lot of trouble to pre-heat the bowls.

                1. re: la2tokyo
                  Porthos RE: la2tokyo Aug 4, 2012 03:26 PM

                  Maybe it's because tender chasu is easier to slice thinly when cooled and that the egg, once cooked to that critical level of runniness, has to be cooled so it doesn't overcook.

          2. k
            kevin RE: J.L. Aug 2, 2012 09:34 AM

            dang, jl, you are already on the scene, and the joint just opened. ???

            what are the last two dishes on that bicameral plate on the right ???

            also, any clue if they have chicken-and-fish broth only ramen here ???

            thanks for the prompt report.

            4 Replies
            1. re: kevin
              J.L. RE: kevin Aug 2, 2012 10:17 AM

              Heheh I was running errands in the area anyways. The tofu dish is the hiya-yakko (cold tofu 2 ways): Spicy oil and Soy sauce with bonito flakes - Decent.

              I believe they only have pork broth for now.

              Thanks for the kind words.

              1. re: J.L.
                k
                kevin RE: J.L. Aug 2, 2012 11:42 AM

                hopefully i'll hit it up this weekend, for once we're talkin about something within my price range.

                1. re: kevin
                  J.L. RE: kevin Aug 2, 2012 11:51 AM

                  Please report back!

                  1. re: J.L.
                    k
                    kevin RE: J.L. Aug 2, 2012 11:59 AM

                    if my memory does not escape me for a solid decade that was an old La Salsa space, right ?

            2. PeterCC RE: J.L. Aug 2, 2012 01:09 PM

              Great review and photos as usual. Still haven't ventured beyond Santouka and Tsujita, but it'd be cool to support a business at the ground level, so to speak.

              Somewhat of a tangent, is shio ramen not very popular? It's my favorite at Santouka, but most places don't serve it.

              4 Replies
              1. re: PeterCC
                Servorg RE: PeterCC Aug 2, 2012 01:13 PM

                Shio ramen at Santouka is the "default setting" for most on the LA CH board. I just happen to like the miso flavor better.

                1. re: Servorg
                  PeterCC RE: Servorg Aug 2, 2012 01:16 PM

                  Miso is second, then shoyu at Santouka, for me.

                2. re: PeterCC
                  Porthos RE: PeterCC Aug 2, 2012 01:21 PM

                  Try it at Yamadaya. It's clear as opposed to the milky shio/tonkotsu at Santouka.

                  1. re: Porthos
                    PeterCC RE: Porthos Aug 2, 2012 01:41 PM

                    Will do. Thanks!

                3. c
                  chrishei RE: J.L. Aug 3, 2012 09:50 AM

                  Do you guys know if they close early on the condition of running out (as stated on their website)? Was thinking about going at 9 last night (since I live within walking distance), but was afraid they would be closed.

                  1 Reply
                  1. re: chrishei
                    Servorg RE: chrishei Aug 3, 2012 09:59 AM

                    According to Yelp they close at 9:30 PM, but then again those factoids can be variable depending on (as you've noted) running out of food or the absence of diners and the chef wanting to go home.

                  2. k
                    kevin RE: J.L. Aug 4, 2012 03:17 PM

                    Just a note:

                    According to the sign on the door it is closed until Aug. 22 due to the dust (?) or something like that.

                    Anyhow, it should be closed for the next couples weeks in case you happen to drop by, or just call them first to make sure if they happen to open before Aug. 22nd ?

                    and i did want to try it this weekend, oh, well, where should i go to feed the ramen hunger then ?

                    7 Replies
                    1. re: kevin
                      J.L. RE: kevin Aug 4, 2012 03:18 PM

                      Jinya Sawtelle is relatively new, and their hanjuku egg IS legit.

                      1. re: kevin
                        f
                        Feed_me RE: kevin Aug 18, 2012 02:51 PM

                        Just back from the area and like Kevin reported Kotoya is closed until August 22nd for construction. The sign says they are installing a duct fan for the kitchen. The sign apologizes for the inconvenience and says to come in and get a discount coupon. There was a young woman inside who gave me a coupon for $3 off with an expiration date of Sept. 30, 2012.

                        1. re: Feed_me
                          d
                          dreamcast18 RE: Feed_me Sep 14, 2012 01:25 PM

                          it has reopened. The miso broth is excellent!

                           
                           
                          1. re: dreamcast18
                            f
                            Feed_me RE: dreamcast18 Sep 19, 2012 03:28 PM

                            Just went by Kotoya and it was closed. There is a sign on the door apologizing and states that the owner is bringing his parents over from Japan so the shop will be closed from September 17 to the 26th.

                            1. re: Feed_me
                              k
                              kevin RE: Feed_me Sep 20, 2012 10:32 AM

                              Wow, two closings in less than a month and a half. Oh, well, ... it's going to be difficult to finally try this joint.

                              1. re: Feed_me
                                o
                                Ogawak RE: Feed_me Sep 20, 2012 03:27 PM

                                Sounds like he's making a real go at this. I expect that one or both parents will be helping him with the shop.

                                1. re: Ogawak
                                  j
                                  jsandler RE: Ogawak Sep 21, 2012 05:38 AM

                                  And its not just his parents he's bringing over. When I spoke to the owner, he mention 3 daughters..

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