ABV, the winebar from the good people behind Earl's Beer and Cheese and the Guthrie Inn, has not gotten very much attention, which is good news for me as a local, but bad news for the hounds missing out on what is turning out to be one of the better mid-priced options on the Upper East Side. Among the highlights from Corey Cova's menu are the tartare pizza featuring roughly chopped beef tartare on charred flatbread, speckled with briny black olives and anchovies as well as the fish tacos which offset generous pieces of fried fish with guacamole and a funky kimchi all in a corn tortilla that rivals those slung at the venerable taquerias further up Lexington Avenue. Although not on the current menu, the scallop crudo and the pork belly and egg draped pocket burger warrant a mention if and when they do come back.
Brunch is a more traditional affair with well-executed eggs benedict, classic crispy shredded potato hash browns and an over the top battered and fried Monte Cristo for those looking for something more serious, like a coronary, first thing in the morning. The generic mimosas are worth skipping in favor of the more interesting wines and light cocktails.