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Sichuan House in Walnut Creek

Melanie Wong Jul 21, 2012 11:57 PM

Yesterday’s mention by “elliora” of the new Sichuan House in Walnut Creek set off a chain of investigation that uncovered Chef Zhang Shaobin (aka Ben Zhang), partner in Pleasant Hill’s Sichuan Fortune House, as the owner. The trail starts here,
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/857911#7474059

Coincidentally I would be in Oakland in the morning, making it easier than usual to swing by the Creek for lunch. Sichuan House is a couple doors down from Genova Deli and opened about seven weeks ago. Hearing the staff speaking Cantonese to each other was concerning. Before getting too cozy with the menu, I asked whether Mr. Zhang was cooking today. The waitress immediately brightened and said, “Ah, you must be a customer from his other restaurant. Yes, he is cooking today. This is his own place, the other restaurant is with a partner. He only makes the sauces there now, and is here all the time.” That was good enough for me to sit back and relax.

I’d been handed the menu of lunch specials (available Monday through Friday), but I also asked for the full menu. The table was set with a fork, chopsticks and napkin. I asked for hot tea, which was served in a pot at no charge. The very good pao cai (Sichuan spicy pickles) and glazed peanuts were complimentary too.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/melaniewong/7613953486/

To hedge my bets, I ordered one lunch special plus tan tan noodles. Dan dan mian had been my favorite dish at Sichuan Fortune House.

Hot and sour soup was as part of the lunch special. Innocuous enough, yet with a good amount of pressed tofu underneath the egg and strips of bamboo plus a good snap of vinegar tartness.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/melaniewong/7613953290/

I’d ordered the ChongQing style spicy chicken wings lunch special, $7.75 with meat on the bone. My waitress nodded saying, “It’s better that way.” Boneless is an option. The wings were hacked into thirds and the lunch size serving was about the equivalent of four wings. The pieces were deep-fried, then wok-tossed with dried red chili pods and other seasonings. Crispy and very flavorful fried skin with juicy meat to be worked off the bone fragments were everything they should be and reminded me of earlier discussion referring to ChongQing la zi ji as “chicken ribs”. Yes, I guess those pairs of parallel bones are akin to ribs.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/melaniewong/7613953752/

A closer look in these two photos at the ChongQing la zi ji, shows the singed garlic, scallions, ginger, and plentiful Sichuan peppercorns. So tasty, about medium heat and plenty of ma la numbing power.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/melaniewong/7613954510/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/melaniewong/7613954822/

After I'd eaten my fill and packed up the leftovers, this shows how many dried red chilis were left on the plate.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/melaniewong/7613954260/

The dan dan mian, $8.50, was not as pleasing. The waiter put the bowl in front of me and immediately started mixing things together without asking me, all the while balancing a plate of food for another table on his left arm. The sauce spattered about and I had to ask him to stop. Made with thickish, soft wheat noodles, this version was meat heavy with a load of ground pork. Nice lift of vinegar and a nutty creamy quality from a bit of sesame paste, but lacking in Sichuan peppercorns, chili heat, scallions, or the earthy complexity and salt of preserved vegetables. And the dish was too sweet. The addition of sautéed pea shoots was a surprising and welcome touch. The dish seemed Americanized to me in the extra sugar and absence of traditional flavor elements. This was doubly disappointing since I’d liked Chef Zhang’s version of this dish before.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/melaniew...

A mixed scorecard on this initial visit with one dish as good as it gets around here and the other rather dumbed down. As we often find with the huge menus at Chinese restaurants, some trial and error will be needed to figure out the gems. I wouldn’t hesitate to return to order other Sichuan standards here. Let’s hear from other ‘hounds who’ve given it a try.

Sichuan House
2064 H Treat Blvd.
Walnut Creek, CA
925-933-3278
Free delivery within 3 miles for purchases over $30

 
  1. kungful Jul 25, 2012 04:39 PM

    Melanie,

    I suspect they may have some issues with consistency or chefs with very different styles.
    After my review of Yiping got panned, and this place was praised, I was in the area and wanted to compare the Dan Dan (Tan Tan) noodles.
    You had said your serving was meat heavy and lacking in heat. What I got was very small amounts of meat and blazing hot with nice amount of preserved vegetables to give it a salty, crunchy contrast. It was very good (I think not as good as Yiping which was very rich and creamy with just enough heat, but that's personal preference), but nothing like you described.

    1 Reply
    1. re: kungful
      Melanie Wong Jul 25, 2012 05:47 PM

      You and I should trade dan dan bowls! I like a touch of creaminess but can live without it, and no where near the peanut butter-y versions some places serve. What you've described with a small amount of meat with an intensely spicy/salty topping that is mostly about the seasoning is the way I like it. And in a small portion that costs less than $8.50! The one I was serve had the equivalent of a quarter-pounder patty worth of meat on top and none of the signature red oil or sichuan peppercorns. I guess that is meant to justify the price.

      This is a very interesting development. I had thought that perhaps the chef felt that two ma-la dishes would be overwhelming in one meal and he toned down the dan-dan intentionally. Now I wonder if the kitchen turns out two versions and does some customer profiling to figure out which to serve. I once had a server ask me which style I liked as two were available. This deserves some follow-up.

      And please know that it was Yiping was panned by others, not your review. I, for one, am very glad that you brought it to our attention.

    2. s
      SLRossi Jul 30, 2012 09:52 AM

      As a long time China Village enthusiast, supporter of Sichuan Fortune House, and one who lives in this neighborhood I was thrilled to hear about this place opening.

      On walking into the quiet dining room early on Saturday night I noticed one of the servers was a familiar face from SFH. The menu is either identical to SFH or so close I could not discern the difference. I asked the familiar server if the food was as authentic as SFH and she said yes and that the SFH chef is now cooking at this new location.

      We were brought a complimentary sample of the house made dumplings in chili sauce that were delicious, spicy, and left me confident with the rest of the meal coming. We had General Zhang Fei's Beef. The dish was fresh, well prepared, and spicy even by my standards. Now that I think about it... they omitted the peanuts usually in this dish. They also used the sliced beef instead of the more traditional stewed tendon that I favor. After the fact I inquired and they said it could be had you just need to ask. I would order this again, even if this was not the best rendition I've had.

      We then had the Sichuan Country Style Fish Fillet. This was awesome and one of the best versions I've had. It was very spicy and nicely studed with Sichuan Peppercorns. The tofu and fish were both cooked to tender perfection. I could not stop eating the celery and sliced jalapenos. It was a little saucier than other versions I've had and I can imagine the thickened sauce might not be to some peoples' likings, but it clung to the food and really brought deep flavor.

      I suppose a good summary could be that we had planned to take home leftovers, but instead sat picking at the dishes until everything other than the many red chilis that came in the dishes were gone. I'm thrilled this is just down the street from my house.

      2 Replies
      1. re: SLRossi
        Melanie Wong Aug 1, 2012 02:07 PM

        Down the street? Lucky you! Was hoping that you'd check it out exactly because of your long history with CV and SFH. I think this was my first time at this shopping center and neighborhood. I was sorry I wasn't going straight home or I would have done some shopping at Genova. And it was great to cool off at Guanatos Ice Cream at the other end of the shopping center afterwards.

        I especially took note of your comments on the General Zhang Fei beef. When I had it at China Village, it was made with slices of navel cut brisket. Have not had a tendon version, but turned up a post from R Lauriston also mentioning tendon. Here's the photo from 2006 at CV,
        http://www.flickr.com/photos/melaniew...

        1. re: Melanie Wong
          s
          SLRossi Aug 6, 2012 12:36 PM

          And it turns out I live within their delivery range... dangerous. As a result I have now tried: Spicy Boiled Fish, Sauteed Pea Sprouts, Tea Smoked Duck and Mongolian Lamb. The boiled fish and pea sprouts were as good as any version I've had at CV or SFH. I've never had Mongolian lamb before so I have nothing to compare it to, but while being tasty I'd probably allocate my calories to something else next time. The tea smoked duck was good, but I don't think it traveled too well. I also thought it was nice that they sent the sichaun pickles and peanuts they serve as a starter in the restaurant.

      2. f
        forestd Aug 1, 2012 04:28 PM

        We tried this out last Sunday for lunch and enjoyed it very much. I had the Crispy Sichuan Beef and my friends had a spicy fish dish and some very good noodles. Good food.

        1. j
          j mather Aug 6, 2012 08:10 PM

          I've been a regular diner at SFH and was happy to see this place open closer to my home. I popped in for a quick try and had the chicken clay pot, which was great as always, and the dan dan noodles. I'd never had the dan dan at SFH; my favorite dan dan is at Z&Y. These were, as noted, weirdly sweet and lacking in numbing pepper. I'll return soon for a fuller sampling, but I'll stay away from the dan dan.

          1 Reply
          1. re: j mather
            Melanie Wong Sep 4, 2012 12:22 PM

            And a flip flop on the dan dan!

            Ok, next one who goes in needs to ask if there are two different styles of dan dan noodles available.

          2. ...tm... Aug 25, 2012 01:24 AM

            This is great news! I generally feel trapped in suburbia on Thursdays, when I have to work on the Walnut Creek/Concord border, and am relieved to have this place nearby. I generally have a lunch conference call, but if I didn't I'd be all over the lunch specials. As with its parent, Sichuan Fortune House, the lunch specials include Sichuan specialties like the water-boiled fish or cumin lamb, but with vegetables--often a problem as a solo business customer. I stopped by after work, and after noticing that they had some version of the 'West Lake fish soup" I had to order it, as I'd been missing it ever since China Village burned up. They also had the trademark peanuts and cabbage aperitif as Sichuan Fortune House. The West Lake soup was very similar to the China Village version (though without the tall waiter who can cut glass noodles with chopsticks) and with sichuan peppercorns, which I don't remember from China Village.

             
             
            1. Ruth Lafler Sep 3, 2012 09:32 PM

              Finding myself hungry, heading out to Contra Costa, and needing to erase the memories of the lackluster Sichuan meal on Friday, I managed a detour to Sichuan House for an early dinner.

              First, I'd like to commend them for not cluttering up their menu with lots of Chinese-American standards. Second, I'd like to thank them for not only honoring my request to make me a dish of half cucumber, half bacon in spicy garlic sauce, but producing a lovely arrangement with thin slices of cucumber alternating with the thin slices of pork (darn, I should have taken a picture).

              We also ordered the cumin lamb (a wet style similar to China Village rather than the more dry style I've seen other places) and the Village style spicy seafood noodle soup. Both were good but not great. None of these dishes had any Sichuan peppercorns, but I think I just ordered dishes that don't usually feature them. I also have a to-go container of wontons in chile oil sitting in my fridge getting hotter by the second!

              2 Replies
              1. re: Ruth Lafler
                Melanie Wong Sep 4, 2012 12:23 PM

                Right, those dishes don't have peppercorns. But the hot wontons should have some, yes?

                1. re: Melanie Wong
                  Ruth Lafler Sep 4, 2012 01:07 PM

                  No visible peppercorns in the hot wontons, but they're damn good!

              2. CyndiN Jul 14, 2013 09:41 AM

                This place sounds good but I'm wondering about allergy issues. You may not be able to answer but I'll try. I've had issues before with "authentic" Chinese food where they cut up all the proteins in the morning and coat with egg and flour. We can ignore the flour but my daughter is super allergic to all traces of egg. We once spent 45 mins in the 99 Ranch mall in Richmond trying to find a place that could serve egg-free food (I think it was a Thai take-out place that worked).

                I ask because your photos show clearly battered meats. And I wouldn't want to drive to the shopping center to find out we can't eat there. I'm allergic to all dairy too but I'm guessing it won't be a problem.

                My husband is spending a week at the Marriott Walnut Creek for work training and our daughter and I plan to drive over on Tuesday night for dinner. If Lotties has something vegan we'll check them out too. We want good, fresh, interesting food, but have to be careful about the allergies.

                Thanks for any comments.

                1 Reply
                1. re: CyndiN
                  h
                  hungree Jul 14, 2013 09:58 AM

                  I don't think everything is battered by any means. if you've been to china village, this place has a very similar menu. no doubt you could just tell them any allergies to eggs.

                2. CyndiN Jul 17, 2013 10:45 PM

                  Yep, I was right, sigh...

                  We went last night and yes all the proteins are "marinated" in the morning in something that includes egg. I didn't ask about flour. I am not sure about tofu but that might have been okay. She said calamari and scallops did not have egg. Everything else did and there was no way to get un-marinated proteins.

                  The one exception was, thankfully, the dish my daughter wanted after reading the menu: the beef pancake. it was an odd sesame-crusted dough with thin slices of beef inside, plus plum sauce and scallions (inside). She said they were made in the restaurant but that the beef was a different kind than the beef they usually use so it wasn't egg coated. I don't know if the pancakes are usually egg-free or if the chef made it that way special for us.

                  We wanted soup or an appetizer but there was nothing (except cold meat, which I don't eat) without egg. I got prawns and eggplant in garlic sauce and my husband got boiled fish which came with cabbage. Both were stew style served in bowls, very large servings, and very good, though my poor daughter was upset that she couldn't taste them.

                  The staff there was extremely nice and did their best for us. I do hope they'll learn though that saying "don't worry, we'll make sure your daughter will be okay" is a lovely thing for a parent to hear but isn't quite the same as "don't worry, there's lots of stuff she can eat here."

                  In case anyone is wondering, the sweet peanuts they give you at the beginning of the meal are egg-free. Though I nearly had a heart attack when the waitress (who was not the one who brought them) said wait don't eat them until I go read the ingredients...after my daughter had inhaled the plate.

                  Parking is very easy but finding the place is not. When you go in the main entrance to the shopping center, go left. It's a bit left of the Starbucks and pond. The bathrooms were very heavily air freshened, so not disabled accessible, though they are wheelchair accessible. The restaurant closes from 3-4:30 in the afternoon (we went very early because of my husband's work schedule and arrived at 4:15).

                  1 Reply
                  1. re: CyndiN
                    CyndiN Jul 17, 2013 10:57 PM

                    We also went to Guanatos Ice Cream after the meal...exit the restaurant, turn left, pass the Starbucks and pond and head all the way to Safeway, then cross the parking lot (it's a nice walk after a big meal).

                    Lovely little place with cute seating and a chalkboard for the kids to write on. The ice creams all have dairy and egg (bummer because some of them looked amazing). The sorbets are dairy-free but have egg white. The fruit bars are all vegan.

                    Despite the marketing that the products are all natural and homemade, there were many with artificial colors and some with artificial sweeteners. They weren't sure of the ingredients on others. The one they found with an ingredient list on the bar packaging (so obviously not house-made) were just fruit, sugar, and citric acid.

                    I had a passion fruit bar which was quite good. My daughter had a chocolate covered banana (has a tiny bit of dairy which she can handle, but no egg). She liked it. They will dip any of the products into the same chocolate for 50 cents but we couldn't go that route since it would have had egg contamination (the factory dipped ones were done separately and were fine).

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