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Wine Pairing for Pressed Duck (Canard a la Presse)

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Not much info regarding to this dish online. So I'm wondering if any of you has done a wonderful pairing and would like to share.

The wine I have in mind:
Sweet wine (Sauternes/Barsac)
Bordeaux
Burgundy

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  1. Based on descriptions of this dish, I would not do sweet wine. It will be too rich with the dish and kind of overwhelming. The great thing about traditional french dishes is they tend to go with traditional french wines (surprise!) So really any red wine would work as long as it still had its acid to cut the richness.

    Any red Burgandy, Bordeaux, Cdr, Loire etc. should work as long as it hasn't oxidized/gone flabby.

    If you had the ingredients list, I could perhaps be more detailed, but I can't imagine they would do anything drastic (e.g. add fruits etc.) to really change the overall flavor profile of the dish.

    5 Replies
    1. re: goldangl95

      thanks for the reply, while doing research, I got the wine choices from this article (http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2010-06... , 2nd paragraph under Tender Crabs), plus there will be 2 fois gras dishes that night too so I'd assume a sweet wine would be a matching choice.

      For Burg and Bord do you have any specific village/chateau/domaine you can reccommend?

      Would Champagne work in this dinner too?

      1. re: Blackham

        All of this will come to personal preference.

        I don't like champagne with a heavy meat course. I think it's too effervescent/light to really stand up to it. Foie gras depending on the preparation is the heaviest I'd go.

        On the opposite end, I wouldn't like an extremely fruit/warm/nutty/sweet wine for the opposite reason, I like the wine to provide a bit of lift/contrast to the heaviness/strong flavors of the meal. With a salad or lighter dish i would like it. Depending on the Foie Gras prep it can go well.

        As to particular suggestions, do you have a budget? or a deep cellar? are you ordering off a wine list? I have little to no experience with the premier crus of Burgandy/Bordeaux so if you are looking at that type of level of wine I may be of little help. I also don't have a lot of experience for wines pre the 2000 vintage.

        I would advise going with a more fruit forward vintage/style some suggestions (the better the quality of the wine - the safer I would feel pulling from the older vintages)

        Bordeaux - Right Bank (St. Emilion/Pomerol) - 1995, 1998, 2000/2001, (maybe 2005 depending but often you are killing a baby)
        Burgandy - Cote de Beaune - 1999, 2002, 2005, (maybe 08/09 but again really killing a baby)

        1. re: goldangl95

          "but again really killing a baby"

          Apparently you don't think this is an inapt metaphor for drinking a young wine. I don't see how it conveys any appropriate or telling message.

          For one, young wines are marvelous to drink. Second, killing a baby is a horrible image that has nothing to do with drinking wine.

          Maybe I am wrong - why do you say "killing a baby" when referring to drinking a 4 year old Beaune? What image comes to your mind or what image do you wish to impress on your listener/reader? How do you equate drinking young wine to killing babies?

          1. re: FrankJBN

            I find most of the 2009 Burgandies too acidic/tannic/oaky currently despite their reputation for being fruit forward and drinking well in the near term. Drinking them now seems to "kill" or "end" a lot of potential. I apologize if my comment offended you.

        2. re: Blackham

          My favorite with duck is a Burgundy with a little age. A Volnay-Santenots should have the acidity to stand up to the rich flesh of the duck.

          Try an Alsace Pinot Gris with the foie gras.

      2. If you are planning to purchase the bottle, pull the cork, and pour, and don't have access (or budget) for some of the older vintage wines that wouldn't result in infanticide, might I suggest a Beaujolais from the 2009 vintage. Many have them have been more "muscular" than some other vintages, but yet aren't lacking in the acidity that I like in Beaujolais.

        A Cotes-du-Rhone on the young side would also be a good choice.

        1. Pommard or Volnay

          the best you can afford.

          1. In an idea world, I'd opt for a villages or premiers crus Burgundy from one of the Côte de Beaune appellations . . . Beaune or Volnay, probably. I love Savigny-les-Beaune, but it's often a bit light for duck, and Pommard is often an iffy proposition from all but the very top estates. But as Maxillien said, get the best you can afford.

            In a world with budgetary realities, however, if those wines are out of reach, go with Brad's suggestion of a Cru de Beaujolais -- a Morgon, Moulin à Vent, Brouilly, or Côte de Brouilly.

            4 Replies
            1. re: zin1953

              I see this a lot - people suggest a Beaujolais as an alternative to Burgundian Pinot Noir.

              While I do see it a lot, I don't see it at all, to me the wines being entirely dissimilar.

              (The caveat is that I do not care for the Gamay)

              1. re: FrankJBN

                I think the caveat says it all . . . .

                An aged Crus de Beaujolais can (and is) often mistaken for a villages Burgundy in blind tastings, and is much closer to it in character and style (in my experience) than, for example, a Bourgogne Passetoutgrains.

                1. re: zin1953

                  "An aged Crus de Beaujolais can (and is) often mistaken for a villages Burgundy in blind tastings"

                  Again, something I just can't see. Gamay always tastes like Gamay. I have in the past advised beginning wine hobbyists to include Beaujolais in their tastings because they will always be able to distinguish them from other wines, thus building confidence in their discernment.

                  Maybe it's a 'hard-wiring' thing like tasting soap in cilantro and Sam Adams beer.

                  1. re: FrankJBN

                    One of my most vivid "mistakes" was tasting, in 1982, a 1971 vintage Morgon (from Georges Descombes, bottled under the Alexis Lichine label, just like Deboeuf) and believing it was it was a Pommard . . .

                    It could be a "hard-wired thing," but I know many people who have had similar experiences. Now, to be honest about it, I am not sure if -- today, in 2012, I would mistake a 10-year old Cru for a villages Burgundy, but it's been my experience on several times that I've found they take on similar weight, texture, mouthfeel . . . and very similar (though not identical) aromatics and flavors. In other words, I swore up and down that Morgon was a Pommard . . . until I went to the cellar and opened up a 1971 Château de Pommard. ;^)

            2. Before jumping directly into the 'wine selection', I think the first thing one should use as reference point is to understand ' How the duck taste!! "
              Years ago, when I had that dish at Paris, La Tour D'Argent i, I recalled the sauce from the 'bone crushing' was made from a slow reduction of the blood and duck juice with 'Cognac and Madeira wine'. The resulting dark and viscous sauce was earthy with a hint of gameness, slightly sweet and full of umami.
              My wine suggestion?! A mature gamey red: Cote-Rotie or Burgundy. But personally, I prefer a rather 'rich' white like an off-dry Alsace Grand Cru.
              Enjoy!!