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Jul 11, 2012 01:17 AM

n/naka: A Pictorial Essay

Verdict: The late spring / early summer menu at n/naka clearly shows the extreme refinement which diners have come to expect from a proper Japanese kaiseki (set meal). Chef Niki Nakayama infuses her usual modern flairs on this very traditional type of cuisine, resulting in a terrific meal that is whimsical and surprising, yet above all pleasing to the palate.


- Zensai Quartet: Lobster Spicy Tamale, Tasmanian Sea Trout in Miso, Blue Crab Squash Blossom Tempura, Asparagus Tofu Halibut Roe Dashi

- Agemono: Pompano Fried With Baby Bell Peppers Dashi Vinegar Sauce

- Shiizakana: Manila Clam Vongole

- Niku: American Wagyu Beef Sukiyaki, Soft Poached Egg, Black Truffles

- Sunomono: Snow Crab & Sesame Vinegar, Kumquat, Cucumber

- Dessert: Kabocha Cheesecake

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  1. Wow, that's all I've got...

    1. JL's photo essays need to come with a warning: may cause uncontrollable sushi urges, excessive eating out, weight gain, hemorrhaging of wallet... ;)

      Great photos and review as always.

      1. You went again????? I hate you

        1. Jealous.. Really been wanting to try that place..

          1. So far, responses to this post have included expressions of anxiety about weight gain, hemorrhaging of wallet, jealousy, and hate... Maybe I should stop posting these essays on the board.

            Nah. :-)

            5 Replies
            1. re: J.L.


              I do have to admit I'm quite envious especially at all the prices joints you get to go to. But do enjoy, and keep up on the writing of the posts.

              And at least some of us will get some vicarious thrills. I'm still saving up for a sushi fix and then hopefully Uraswas one of these days or I can take over if someone is not up to it, as previously discussed, as one of those seat fillers at Urasawa when someone taps out.

              Btw, if I'm going to kiriko in the a la carte route, what would you rec I order besides the tamago???, which I can't wait to try.

              1. re: kevin

                Kiriko highlights on my last dinner omakase there (end of May) included:
                - House-smoked wild sockeye salmon with mango & caviar
                - Uni ice cream with momotaro salsa gazpacho and nori tempura
                - Whole scallop sashimi with kimo (liver) in ponzu
                - Seared kinmedai (golden eye snapper) nigiri
                - Aori ika (broad-mantle squid) sashimi
                - Anago (sea eel) nigiri
                - Indian Ocean bluefin akami nigiri
                - House-smoked wild sockeye salmon nigiri
                - Housemade ginger ice cream
                - Uni ice cream

                1. re: J.L.

                  fuck that sounds goods. i hope this list of dishes above is no more than 75 bucks before tax and tip.

                  1. re: kevin

                    I'd suggest you bring a list of what you want, then ask the shokunin: Shinji-san, Tomo-san, or Ken-san himself (before you start) what you can have on that list for $75. Don't forget to include your raison d'ĂȘtre: The tamago order.

                    1. re: J.L.

                      i think i may substract the eel and squid from your list of dishes and order the smoked salmon with caviar as sushi to save costs.

                      i did have that salmon sushi last time i was there. which feels like about a year back.