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barberinibee Jul 8, 2012 02:09 PM

I'd love to have some help picking a good dinner neighborhood for my upcoming stay in Lisbon

I plan to go to Lisbon for the first time in the beginning of September, and I am looking to book a hotel or apartment in a neighborhood where I can easily walk to wonderful dining experiences every night -- if that is possible. My definition of a wonderful dining experience is seafood and good wine, or wonderful vegetables and good wine. I'm less enthusiastic when it comes to meat, unless it is chicken or unless it is outstanding.

I'm also not much of a fan of salted cod or pastries/desserts.

I'm happy with formica table tops and plastic place mats or with white tablecloths and crystal. I don't mind paying for really good food and ingredients. Some things I definitely don't like as a dining experience are loud music or "a scene," and while I appreciate that part of the fun of Lisbon is its creative spirit and I do want to experience that, I get annoyed by fussy instructions about how to eat my food in a pseudo-laboratory "molecular" "foodie" experience. (Hope that's clear.)

I would like to sample the very best Lisbon has to offer somebody looking to eat terrific, native, natural food made by people who are proud to share it and to serve it.

Does one neighborhood in Lisbon stand out over another as the place to be if you want to walk to and from some very good restaurants at night? I know there are "destination" restaurants scattered all over town, and I plan to go to some for lunches. But I'm hoping to locate a neighborhood to stay in that has at least one or more good restaurant I can enjoy night after night.

Thanks!

  1. b
    barberinibee Jul 8, 2012 02:17 PM

    PS: Here's another, even more basic question, given that I don't know anything about Lisbon's eating culture:

    Would I do better to rent an apartment and make lunch my big eating adventure of the day, and get by on a light meal for dinner, either at the apartment with take out foods or stuff from the market? How long does the typical lunch in Lisbon last? What time to people eat the evening meal?

    (Sorry, that was more than one question!)

    6 Replies
    1. re: barberinibee
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      barberinibee Jul 16, 2012 02:07 PM

      Just checking in to my own post to say that I've since found a few not-too-ancient Chowhound posts addressing many of my questions quite extensively. (Although I had to search via Google, not Chowhound, to find them). Thanks to vinhotinto and monchique, wherever you are!

      Still would be happy to hear about anyone's recent experiences of eating in Lisbon and Porto (where I plan to stay and eat at the Yeatman). High-end dining, grilled sardines, lots of seafood and good wines is high on the agenda. I'm also a big coffee lover if anyone knows of an absolutely outstanding place in Lisbon.

      1. re: barberinibee
        monchique Jul 17, 2012 06:01 AM

        Hi, glad you have now done your homework... I was in Porto for S. João on June 23d and stayed at the Yeatman; Had lunch there (very good, worth the Michelin star), dinner there which was a complete flop for me (an expensive buffet "Porto style" for the celebrations), fortunately the view of the fire works and the room were great; The next day we had their "special Sunday lunch" whilst waiting for our plane back to Faro, which was a short carte. The only special thing aboput it is that it's obviously the chef's day off...
        In Porto, I like Foz Velha (high end but not too pricy) when chef Marco Gomes is there... and a place on the river Gaia side, first right after the bridge. Really slap on the water and good for sardines or Francesinhas.
        The posts about Lisbon are still current... I am old fashion so enjoy traditional food in the likes of Gambrinus, Tavares or Tagide. Was recently at Cantinho do Avillez for lunch; The food was good but again one felt the chef had not bothered to get up and the spark was missing.

        1. re: monchique
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          barberinibee Jul 19, 2012 08:52 AM

          Thanks very much for that insight into Yeatman, and for your other recs on Porto.

          It looks now like we are getting an apartment near both Tavares and Tagide, so I look forward to eating at both. Thanks again! I'll try to report back.

          1. re: barberinibee
            monchique Jul 19, 2012 10:56 AM

            Plenty to chose from where you will be based, just follow your nose.
            If you visit Belem, don't miss the cake shops for the famous "pasteis de Belem" and there is a nice restaurant in the Clube Nautico on the river called "Vela Latina". Old world Lisbon...

      2. re: barberinibee
        monchique Jul 19, 2012 10:51 AM

        Sorry, I missed this one... Dinner is when you want to go out. Lunch can be a snack and is normally eaten between 12:30 and 2:30pm, and as people are working, lasts say 1hour maximum.
        Dinner is eaten between 8pm and 9:30pm, although resturants start servibng at 7:30pm and some are open late as in any big city. But nothing like Spain!

        1. re: monchique
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          barberinibee Jul 21, 2012 01:24 PM

          Thank you very, very much for this additional information. I appreciate greatly.

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