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Wine tastings in Beaune Area

c
CJT Jul 7, 2012 10:21 AM

If you were spending a few days in and around Beaune, which places (châteaux, wine growers, local producers) would you visit to sample their wines? Are there any châteaux (wineries) which have restaurants connected to the property or nearby which you might recommend? Is Clos de Vougeot worth a visit?

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  1. Parigi Jul 7, 2012 10:40 AM

    have not been to Clos de Vougeot. The surrounding area is beautiful.

    Did you see the recommendation on this table d'hôte lunch at Aloxe-Corton that landed on the board as of a few hours ago? Sounds promising, no?
    http://www.table-comte-senard.com/fr/index.php#/Accueil

    Château de Mélin is a vineyard b&b in Aloxe-Corton. It has wine-tasting for its (not that expensive!) b&b guests. I don't remember its offering table d'hôte.
    http://chateaumelin.free.fr/en/

    1. DaTulip Jul 7, 2012 09:23 PM

      Burgundy is very different from Bordeaux - the domaines aren't necessarily associated with a Chateaux. In fact most aren't. Most also aren't open to just drop by without a reservation. I'd recommend a guide in the area for the day to introduce you to the area & it's uniqueness. We like Detours in France, but search the board & you'll find pleanty of recs.

      You can also search for other posts if you're a died in the wool DIY type person. There are three good Table d'hote in the area: Comte Senard in Aloxe-Corton (the post to which Parigi refers), Oliver LeFlaive in Puligny-Montrachet (mostly for the intro to the areas wines - food is decent, but nothing outstanding), & Pierre Bouree in Gevrey-Chambertin (actually on the N-74 part, not in town proper). Some places will take you in without reservation like the big caves in Beaune (Patriarche, Reine-Pedeaque, Marche aux Vins, Cave du Cordelliers, etc) or some places in Aloxe-Corton (Michel-Voarick, Pierre-Bize, Corton Andre, & the Cooperative - the Proprietors of Aloxe-Corton). Savigny-les-Beaune, Pommard, & Meursault all have places the welcome drop ins too, but a tour or good planning & luck can get you appointments with smaller producers. Lucien-Jacob in Echrovonne (sp?) speaks English & does a nice visit by appointment. Same for Chateau de la Tour (next to Clos de Vougeot) & Domaine Bertagna.

      Clos de Vougeot is interesting, but pretty empty on the inside. I'd go by the outside, but skip the stop unless you just really want to see the huge old wooden wine press.
      Enjoy!

      1 Reply
      1. re: DaTulip
        BlueOx Jul 9, 2012 12:52 PM

        Just a word about Chateau Meursault, we did the tour (15 euros) with our cycling group last September. The group wanted to see big wine caves and the Chateau has them. However, the hustle factor in the caves is high, the wine available for tasting is at best mediocre and the guides fairly nasty, they only want to get you to buy or be gone. That said the buildings, grounds and caves are impressive.

      2. ChefJune Jul 9, 2012 02:22 PM

        As the others have said, you really need appointments to visit most of the winemakers in Burgundy. It's possible to drop in at the tasting rooms on the periferique in Beaune, but otherwise I'd recommend talking with your local wine merchant about where you'd like to visit. Most times they can (and will) hook you up with the appropriate distributors who can set up appointments for you.

        The BIVB (Burgundy Wine Bureau - www.bivb.com) offers classes and guides who can take you around for a reasonable fee, as well, and there are private concerns who do day trips.

        Someone above mentioned Domaine Lucien Jacob. We have visited there several times. Their wines are pretty "meh," but their Creme de Cassis, Framboise and Mure are worth a trip. Perhaps the best made in France...

        11 Replies
        1. re: ChefJune
          c
          CJT Jul 10, 2012 12:43 PM

          Thanks for all the good information. Burgundy Wine Bureau has lots of good information and we can download their guide book which lists wineries all over the Cote d'Or. Will search out Lucien Jacob.

          1. re: CJT
            DaTulip Jul 10, 2012 04:41 PM

            I will respectfully disagree with June - I think that Chateau Ange Gardien has the best casis. I like the Mure from Lucien Jacob.

            Just remember the domaines listed in the BVIB guide don't necessarily mean that they are places with an open cellar door. Best to contact ahead & reserve if needed. Enjoy!

            1. re: DaTulip
              sistereurope Jul 10, 2012 06:10 PM

              Thanks for the info on the BIVB. We're planning a trip to Burgundy, early October. We're total DIY people (and I'm the researcher) so I need all the tools and input I can get! I found that if you go to the Burgundy Tourism section of the (English version) BIVB website and click on the contact the producers link, you get a search box where you can search each village. My search of Meursault resulted in 36 growers, and if you click on the Domaine name it gives hours, whether they require an appointment, what wines they produce, a link to a web site if available, etc. Very helpful!

              1. re: sistereurope
                mangeur Jul 10, 2012 11:55 PM

                I hope your travelmates appreciate the number of "clicks" you put into their trip. ;)

                1. re: mangeur
                  sistereurope Jul 11, 2012 03:45 AM

                  Since my travelmate is Mr. Sistereurope this time I sure hope so, for his sake.
                  Although I do enjoy the planning (shhh, just don't tell him that :).

                  1. re: sistereurope
                    c
                    CJT Jul 11, 2012 03:16 PM

                    Has anyone participated in the luncheons at Pierre Bourrée (Gevrey-Chambertin) or Table d'Hôte du Comte Senard (Aloxe-Corton)? Both offer meal with 4, 5, or more wines at increasing prices (50, 60, 80 Euros) depending on the wines served. They require reservations and we'd like to know if anyone has participated in these and can evaluate the experience.

                    1. re: CJT
                      DaTulip Jul 11, 2012 04:42 PM

                      We have been to both. First comment is that it is best to have a driver/take a taxi or plan for an after lunch walk. Bouree feels a bit more like a resto, but food & wines are good. We had the winemaker as our server/guide & he was great. Very knowledgable about the wines & region.

                      The food at Comte Senard is top notch & the servers will teach you as much or as little as you want to know about the region & their wines. You can also request a tour of the cellar & you may see the Count and/or Countess or my favorite family member - Fiji the Australian Shepherd.

                      Generally pricy, but reasonable value for both places. If I had to choose just one it would be Senard. Closer to Beaune for us & overall nice atmosphere. Large tables with lazy susans in a remodeled outbuilding/barn.

                      Do you have specific questions I or others could help with?

                      1. re: DaTulip
                        s
                        sderham Jul 20, 2012 11:29 AM

                        How are the wines served with the meal? Am thinking of going next week, but want to make sure I am not disappointed, if I can. Merci

                        1. re: sderham
                          DaTulip Jul 20, 2012 09:24 PM

                          At both they are served in what I would call sets. For instance you might have an amuse with one one, appetizers/entrees with 2-4 wines, mains/plats with another 2-4 wines, then cheese course/dessert with another 1-3 wines. All are well introduced & the pairings explained. At these two it is about the food with the wines as a compliment. Oliver LeFlaive is more about the wines.

                          If you are very knowledgable about Burgundy wines be sure to tell them. They will usually try to tailor to your needs. Then again, they may not have much to teach to many who post here. I find that I learn something new every time.

                          Does that help? If not, let me know more on your concerns. Hope you have a fabulous time!

                          1. re: sderham
                            DaTulip Jul 20, 2012 09:28 PM

                            Hmmm...re-reading your post I'm wondering if you mean are the wines. any good? If so, yes on both counts. Not the most outstanding artisanal Burgs around, but very good for houses of this size. You typically have a village level, a couple of 1er crus, & a couple of Grand Crus at these tastings. Let me know if this is more what you meant & if this answers the question.

                            1. re: DaTulip
                              s
                              sderham Jul 21, 2012 02:10 AM

                              Well, I did mean the wines, but I really appreciate both replies. Yes, you did answer my question and I have just reserved for next Thursday. They asked my to choose my entree and plat while we were talking, if possible. I have visited Burgundy fairly often so it is nice to find something new and interesting to do. I'm sure I will learn a lot.

                              Have reserved for Ma Cuisine that evening; hope this won't be too much for the day.

                              I would NEVER do Olivier Leflaive, I did it many years ago; the food was disgusting and the staff was nasty and rude. I guess they are better now but it really left a bad "taste".

          2. j
            Julian Teoh Jul 9, 2012 06:10 PM

            Domaine Rapet in Pernand-Vergelesses. Vincent Rapet makes some of the best (and also best value) wines on the Cote de Beaune.

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