Corsica Restaurant Recs?
I'm traveling to Corsica with a friend in a week, and in search of restaurant recs. We'll be all around the island from Ajaccio to Portovecchio to Porto (near Calvi). Would love any recs for food from markets to small bites to outrageous dinners. Any wine suggestions are welcome too. Chez Seraphin in Peri is the only stellar rec I've received so far. We eat anything and everything. Merci!
I may be able to offer a few reccos, but the towns you mention are really in the SW part of Corsica, not "all around the island." Unfortunately, that's part of Corsica we did NOT visit. Our trip was from Calvi to the Wine/Artisians trail (Pigna-- for music), to Algogala, L'lle d' Rousse, St. Florent, Lama, La Porta, Aleria, Corte, Bastia, etc. Are these on in your plans? They were great!
From 2007 trip:
Bastia. We didn't care for the town and didn't eat there.
St. Florent: The harbor area offers the typical tourist seafood/pizza restos. Can't recommend anyplace special there. If you are staying in area overnight, look in to Hotel La Dimora for lovely accom. up in the hills from St Flo. A good drive is down in to the valley of Patrimonio, which is lovely wine country, with a few restos (we had a nice lunch there, but I don't have the resto name, but it's easy to spot at the bottom of the valley.) Also, for a generous lunch with only locals, try La Cigale, a roadside resto between St Flo and Oletta.
Cheap and fun.
Corte: We stayed in Restonica area, and ate twice at the lovely Auberge de la Restonica. Would recommend this.
Also, two wonderful drives from Corte: (we had 3 days here, and could have added another):
To Aleria, along the eastern coast. (A 45 min drive from Corte) Don't miss the archeological museum and digs there. Museum closes at 12:00 - 2:00, so hit it before lunch. Then a delightful seafood lunch at "Aux Coquillages de Diana" at Etang Diana. This sits right on the beach. Lobster is very, very pricey, but you can eat well on mussels, grilled rouget, oysters. Oysters and mussels are grown right off the shore, and they are brought right to the resto when harvested.
In the same general area, one of our absolute faves was Chez Elisabeth in La Porta. This sits high in the hills on a winding drive. La Porta is very picturesque. Go for lunch before 1:30. This place is the real deal for Corsican food. We opted for the 14.50 euro 3 course menu (cheap!). Then our waiter started bringing the complimentary bilberry wine, the complimentary cheese beignets, the figarellu-stuffed chestnut flour beignets, a huge plate os extra goodies.
The "cold cuts" of ham, coppa, sausage, etc were sublime. Best in Corsica. Followed by stewed veal for me, stewed wild boar for DH. I didn't make note of dessert, but after so much food, wine, etc I know we didn't need dinner that night.
And the waiter insisted we meet the owners, an older couple who were cooking up the food in huge pots in the kitchen.
Don't expect fancy food. Take advantage of the great cold cuts, cheeses (served often with jam) and wines. Corsica has lots of its own wines.
From 2006: "I've just gotten into my archives and the place I mentioned in Calvi that we liked was the U Calellu, on the Quai Landry, 04 95 65 22 18, one fork/knife but nice and differently named fish. Only 106.75 E too for two. The other place we thought was special was spanking new at the time - Le Bon Coin in PISCIATELLO 20129 BASTELICACCIA; 04 95 10 06 13; this is near the Ajaccio airport and serves up classic food with an edgy twist. Our bill was 77 E. " Otherwise we were not blown away by the food.