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Jun 21, 2012 10:02 PM

Masullo Pizza in Land Park ( Sacramento )

Finally got to try Masullo last weekend for lunch. The four of us started with the mixed Sevillano olive along with a order of rosemary salted almonds for appertizers. On this hot afternoon I had a pint of the Sudwerk pilsner. Always a great beer when in the area. The pizza's came out of the 800 degree wood fired oven with a slight smoky taste and a thin soft crust .You also could taste the light sourdough flavor.We had Mozzarella, dry chorizo, garlic, chili oil, topped with arugula on this non tomato based pizza. Another with a light tomato base, topped with mozzarella,goat cheese,oyster mushroom,and onion. I really enjoyed the fresh ingredients along with the care of Masullo pizzeria.

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  1. Thanks for posting. Masullo got some national press last month when Chris Bianco named it as one of his favorites.

    1. I was in Sacramento last week and continued the string of pizza try-outs with my friend and her son. The earlier two, OneSpeed and Hot Italian, were both very good, but Masullo plays in a whole different league.

      To start, we shared a salad of River Dog Farm mizuna, lemon, Niman bacon, and Masullo's own homemade idea of a bread crouton. The extremely thin latticework of flatbread made for a dramatic presentation propped on the salad as well as a contrasting crunch. Despite the bacon, this was surprisingly light and refreshing due to the citrus notes and peppery mustard flavors.

      The pizza menu’s divided into two sides: pizzas with tomato sauce and pizzas without tomato sauce. We ordered one of each style.

      First out of the 800-degree wood oven was the Jaqueline, $14. Thin slices of flavorful, waxy potatoes tiled the surface accented with Niman Ranch bacon, Fontina, and oregano. This was my favorite of the night. As you can see from this photo, our 14-year old was hungry and ready to pounce.

      Then the 3 Meats, Fra' Mani Toscano salame, mortadella, sausage, ricotta, mozzarella on tomato base, $15. The tomatoes are DiNapoli, covered with just enough of the meats to contribute flavor and intricacy but not bulk. I would say that the tomato sauce was the weak spot of this combination, good enough but not so special. I would probably focus on white pies next time.

      The crust’s very impressive here. Pulled very thin with a puffy rim showing a bit of crispness, the baked dough offered a little resistance on first bite but stayed tender at heart and did not toughen as it cooled down. Notably, neither pizza was wet on the underside nor turned limp even the last slices. Beautiful spotting but not burnt, perfumed with wood smoke and yeasty notes of a long rise, here’s a look at the upskirt .

      Comparing Masullo to the pizza places in the Bay Area also counted among Chris Bianco’s favorites, I like Masullo as much as Oakland’s Pizzaiolo. The crust comes close to the mild sourdough flavor of Una Pizza Napoletana and there are more choices of toppings here. The style here hews more closely to Neopolitan than Pizzeria Delfina, and I prefer Masullo.

      We had just enough room for dessert, ordering Lemon posset, $4. Simple, tangy and sweet, this was perfect ending for this meal. Unfamiliar with this, I asked the waiter to tell us more about its origins. He said that it’s an Old English recipe (pronounced with the “t” on the end). Made of heavy cream, sugar and lemon juice, the version here had a gelatin cap over the surface, plus a crispy cookie.

      A terrific meal all round, enhanced by our entertaining waiter, Andrea. For the three of us, a total of $60, including tax and tip, plus two non-alcoholic beverages.

      2711 Riverside Blvd
      Sacramento, CA
      Closed Sundays

      Coupon for 50% off second pizza, expires Dec 30 2013 (select “coupons” tab)

      OneSpeed Pizza

      Hot Italian

      1. Saturday I dropped by Masullo on my way out of town. I had about a 20-minute wait to be seated when I arrived just before 7pm. But by 8pm the place was nearly emptied out.

        I could see Masullo working the oven and wanted to try a simple Margherita, $12. A little saucier than I expected and maybe a touch overfired, yet still delicious through and through. I enjoyed the hibiscus lemonade spritzer, $3, too, ordered with less simple syrup.

        And worth noting for those with little ones, the restroom has a nice changing station.

        3 Replies
        1. re: Melanie Wong

          Interesting, I recall more cheese on the Margherita. Some people who go there get quite offended at the sparse topping treatment. The risk of going after 8 pm is that they run out of dough (call ahead to make sure)

          1. re: gooster

            Maybe under-cheesed is another way of saying over-sauced. ;)

            Actually, this was the right amount of cheese for me. I like Neapolitan austerity.

            1. re: Melanie Wong

              Yes, they do make it the way (mostly) it is intended.

              Just visited again recently; they had a problem with one pizza, which they overcooked and so they redid it without being asked. It was slightly underdone in a true Neapolitan fashion, but I understand that will upset some. Tried the pasta, which was fine but not exceptional, but the arugula salad was a winner. I really appreciate how they offer a small sized salad at a nice price, vs. an pricey one that is too big for a starter, like so many other places.

        2. Had Masullo for early dinner today on the way back from Tahoe.
          I was happy to see their Sunday hours are 3-8 pm.
          This was my second visit.
          The food was excellent, and better than the last time.
          Ordered antipasti plate, margherita, 3 meats, and Neapolitan.
          The antipasti plate is a must order in my opinion.
          It has a combo of sliced meats, cheeses, and marinated vegetables.