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Jun 19, 2012 12:58 PM

Haute Cuisine in Manhattan

I am stuck in a time warp. I want some authentic haute cuisine. I know that Lutece is gone; so are Caravelle, Le Perigord and Henri IV. I still want to find pomme souffle and steak en croute (Beef Wellington-no thank you). Any suggestions?

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  1. La Grenouille serves haute cuisine.

    Le Perigord is still around but I can't recommend it based on a subpar meal that I had there last year.

    9 Replies
      1. re: Sneakeater

        With the change in chefs (again), Adour is now going more towards the traditional -- or so we were advised by our favorite captain, Laurie, during our recent dinner there. The style still seems more contemporary to me than La Grenouille's.

        I agree with Riverman about skipping Le Perigord. Our one and only meal there a couple of years ago was decent enough but could hardly hold the proverbial candle to La Grenouille. Also, Le Perigord's decor was dull and showing its age.

        1. re: Sneakeater

          When I dined at Adour about two months ago, the food was just plain O.K. and the service was one of the worst I ever experienced in New York. There was about five to ten minutes interval between the first and second dish, then about forty minutes wait until the entree. Another good twenty to thirty minutes until my dessert, which was practically 'dumped' at the table together with coffee I ordered and petit fours. No one paid attention to my table, no explanation of the dishes served. About four to five servers brought out the food in turn. Adour used to be one of my regular venues, but now I don't plan to go back any time soon.

          1. re: kosmose7

            I'm sorry to hear that, kosmose. It sounds nothing like the experiences we've had at Adour, all of which have been excellent.


            1. re: RGR

              Lutece was amazing. Grand Chef Andre Soltner made the best wild duck I've ever had. Did I mention the lemon soufflé? Times had changed, cuisine got lighter and healthier, so he got out at the right time. Perhaps it is time he came back. We eat pork belly now, and bone marrow etc La Grenouille is probably the closest thing to haute we have these days, and the food has been consistently good there for the 30 years I've gone there.

              1. re: foodwhisperer

                I remember when I was a student, I was saving up my allowances for months to dine at La Grenouille and Lutece once in a while... Grand Hyatt's Crystal Fountain had one of the best buffets in town (I believe it was around $30 per person then), Hatsuhana was the best sushi shop in New York. There was United Nations Plaza Hotel run by Hyatt. Met Life Building was Pan Am then. I really miss those days. :)

                1. re: kosmose7

                  Ahh yes the good old days, when a bottle of Chateau Latour , Cheval Blanc, Lafite were very affordable. I'm glad I had the chance to try the best of the best, as now they are way out of range. Hatsuhana was a once a week stop, Lutece was a once every 6 months and beyond amazing. A little later Quilted Giraffe was quite a good restaurant. The caviar purses were quite good.

              2. re: RGR

                I am sorry too, because my previous experiences at Adour used to be quite satisfactory. I will wait a while and go back some day... :)

                1. re: RGR

                  Yes, Adour is absolutely the correct answer.

          2. it's not haute but if you're looking for retro dishes, Le Veau d'Or has 'em. Don't forget the lobster Thermidor and Baked Alaska at Delmonico's!

            1. On a related note, I wonder if those of you who've dined regularly in town could suggest which of the Michelin 3-stars is closest, in letter or spirit, to classic haute cuisine... Daniel? Le Bernardin? None of the above?

              3 Replies
              1. re: Winterpool

                I would say Jean Georges, especially his signature dishes tasting menu.

                Jean Georges gained fame for essentially doing classic dishes but with lighter flavors.
                So I guess you'll get the letter of classic haute cuisine while maybe not the spirit of the richness.

                1. re: fooder

                  Considering how Asian-influenced the cuisine at Jean Georges is, I think it's the least like classic French.

                  Daniel, imo, is about the closest.


                2. re: Winterpool

                  I think of Jean Georges and Le Bernardin as nouvelle (rather than haute) cuisine. Daniel comes close though he takes his inspiration from provincial France rather than Escoffier.