Morelia - Saturday lunch, regional cuisine
The enchiladas de jicama and sopa tarasca at Lu were fantastic, some of the best Mexican food I've had anywhere.
The sauce for the "frito" was equally good and the accompanying morisquita was great, but simple grilled lamb chops with sauce was boringly international compared with the traditional pork spine braised in adobo we had at Fonda Marceva a few days earlier.
A grilled chicken breast was delicious thanks to a great spice rub.
The candied hibiscus salad was interesting but to my taste overdressed.
We drank a good and interesting Vinñas Pojoan Convertible Rojo 2010 (a blend of Ruby Cabernet, Petite Sirah, Barbera, and Colombard) and excellent "pre-Columbian" (no dairy) chocolate. Overall, good enough that we'll probably detour through Morelia to eat there again.
I like both Restaurante LU and Fonda Marceva. Of the two I think the latter is probably a little more comfortable/relaxing.
Restaurante LU does a bang-up job with the regional specialties and manages to serve them in very elegant presentations. The atmosphere at Fonda Marceva is more relaxed and so is the food. If you've got the time, the budget (tho' neither is expensive by US standards) and the inclination, do both.
I would choose Fonda Marceva, but I haven't eaten at Los Mirasoles.
I quickly grew to like the restaurant El Rincón de Allende, next to the Hotel Historia, on Av. Allende, Centro. It's really a glorified coffee shop, but almost everything I've eaten there, breakfasts and comidas, has been fresh and well prepared. The Frijoles Guisados are outstanding.
This is not a high end place, but it's clean, with good service, modest prices and very satisfying.
We enjoyed our lunch at Fonda Marceva. The most memorable dish was the frito, pork spine braised in adobo. I loved the chorizo and grilled nopales on my plato Calentano, beef and cheese were not memorable. Uchepos were simple and good. Toqueras were new to me, interesting texture. I don't really get serving guacamole with chicharrones, but both were good. Salsas were first-rate.