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Lot & Dordogne

We'll be a week in Puy L'Eveque (west of Cahors) this July. Soon!

I'm winkling a few recommendations out of other threads here, but wonder if any Hounds would have time to make a sort of Formal List here? We'd like to hear about both sitdown lunch and dinners, and picnic supplies. Any recommendations or warnings greatly appreciated!

Bucky Edgett

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  1. The food (hope it hasn't changed) was fantastic at Moulin du Roc in Champagnac de Belair near Brantome (a very pretty town to visit). The surroundings are beautiful as is the food.

    P.S. I just checked TripAdvisor and apparently the inn and restaurant still get raves.

    1. Don't know about formal lists, but we spent a couple of nights near there a few years ago on a walking trip.
      Didn't find any outstanding restaurants, but plenty of nice local places.

      I'd focus on lunch if I were you. It can get lonely eating dinner in this part of France as most locals go out for lunch.

      The Saturday market in Cahors is not to be missed. There are a number of good places to eat there. Can't remember the name (check it out on Michelin), but the one star near the train station is good.

      Bonne Vacance!

      1. We had a lovely dinner at the Château de Mercuès (one Michelin star) 2 weeks ago. We had their Menu Château at 90€ (see http://www.chateaudemercues.com/index... - but be warned the English & French versions don't have the same prices). We loved the site as well as the château itself, and would go back.

        9 Replies
        1. re: boredough

          I second this suggestion! I was able to stay there overnight once in a former life, and it's very luxurious and like a fairytale place... not to mention having fine dining.

          1. re: boredough

            ''the English & French versions don't have the same prices' - in 18 years of living in the Dordogne, not far from Cahors, I have never seen this on a menu. Do you have an example? We haven't eaten at the Chateau, but are long time purchasers of VIgoroux wines, and I'm a Facebook friend of VIgoroux - owner of the chateau. I would really like to ask about this, if you have more information.

            1. re: carlux

              I was referring specifically to the Château's website (cited above with my comment in parentheses). In the French version, the menu prices are €138, €90, and €70. Click on the British flag and they are €115, €85, & €65.

              1. re: boredough

                In fact just after I posted I looked at the site, and saw exactly what you meant. I just called the Chateau and asked, and it appears that the French prices are correct - they just haven't updated their English Language site. I pointed out to him that this was rather confusing for Anglophones (didn't mention that people might fell they were being taken advantage of) and he says they will change it 'tout de suite.'

                People here aren't always as efficient with their sites as you might hope. This morning we drove to Cahors to check out something at a quarry whose site said 'open Monday to Satruday' In French of course. Anyway, we got there and it was obviously closed. Luckily there was someone working on his In tray who was able to answer our questions, and was quite amazed to hear that the site said they were open. I was able to show him exactly - after pointing out that we had driven an hour to check this out. So we got our information, but purely by chance.

                1. re: carlux

                  Yes, it always amazes me when an organization does not maintain its website properly, especially when we might be relying on that one crucial bit of information (as you did). Sometimes it's better not to have a website at all.

                2. re: boredough

                  Since the English prices are lower who's complaining?

                  Just order off the English menu.

                  By the way in either currency those are pretty steep prices for a one star.

                  1. re: Yank

                    "By the way in either currency those are pretty steep prices for a one star."

                    Agreed. I think those are prices of a one star plus the rent of a table in a beautiful castle.

                    1. re: Parigi

                      Wonder if they'd let me bring my own table?

                      1. re: Yank

                        Why don't you get takeout. :-)
                        Shit, free kick for Italy.
                        I have to learn to breathe again.

            2. Thank you all. I'm compiling!

              1. We're heading to Restaurant Marco just east of Cahors for lunch today.

                1. Ok, I've been scouring the board and found an interesting phenomenon. There is little or nothing here about places in the Lot Valley. Plenty of Dordogne and north (Perigordian, I think) but nothing Quercy, until down in Toulouse or so. If that is indeed stil Quercy. Apparently the Lot and Tarn are the orphans of Chowhound gastronomical knowledge!

                  Or maybe I'm missing something!

                  Off to the UK and France on Wednesday. Thanks to all who have posted.

                  5 Replies
                  1. re: BuckyE

                    Dordogne is in general much more visited than the Lot, so naturally the Lot has fewer recommendations. But "little or nothing"?
                    I myself have recommended restaurants in Martel, Lacave, Marcilhac sur Célé, and markets, all in the Lot. Otherse, especially Yank, have made many more recommendations on the area.

                    1. re: Parigi

                      Ah, I'm sorry! I see that "Martel, Lacave, Marcilhac sur Célé" are indeed in the Lot DEPARTMENT, although they are on or near the Dordogne RIVER. That's my confusion! As we'll be staying in Puy L'Eveque, west of Cahors, I guess although places like that are in our Department, they're also kind of far afield to pop out to for dinner. But maybe we need to plan a few day trips up there to see the countryside!

                      Thank you Parigi.

                      1. re: BuckyE

                        It is also difficult to search under "Lot". It's like "Nice" (the town). When one searches "Lot" or "Nice", one gets zillions of pages of threads mentioning "lot of" or "nice" (pleasant) everything and anything.

                        Another beautiful town in the Lot with good food that got mentions here is Figeac (esp La Cuisine du marché).

                    2. re: BuckyE

                      For what its worth, we're headed off this July to spend one week in the Lot, followed by one week in the Gers. We already have an eating itinerary stretching down from Lacave to the Lot river (yes, we're going to Peche Merle) down to Albi to Auch and to L'Isle Jourdain (we're also going to the Marciac jazz festival)

                      There are some restaurants we're planning to visit but, in all honestly, the plan for many of our meals includes markets or farmhouses. This seems more apt in these areas. One of the Chambre d'Hotes we're staying at in Quercy we chose because the host has a reputation as a great cook.

                      Still, I'll try to report back.

                      1. re: r.vacapinta

                        Great planning. Can't wait to read your report.

                    3. Had lunch at Restaurant Marco which is just east of Cahors.
                      Superb .. lovely flavours and very well executed.

                      Michelin has a fairly good website.