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two women in mexico city in august

We are pretty adventurous eaters and not on a tight budget but not flush. Our Spanish is adequate to navigate. I ate at Pujol a few years ago and was not terribly impressed but we don't want to spend that kind of money. We are staying at a B & B in Polanco - first visit to Mexico city for my amiga. Would welcome any and all thoughts and happy to reciprocate whe you come to Todos Santos.

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  1. What kind of cuisine do you like? Nearly all are represented.

    7 Replies
    1. re: Anonimo

      we pretty much like everything but I think we will want mostly local. Looking forward to finding chiles en nogado -not made by anyone in BCS that I am aware of. My friend lives on Vancouver Island so she and I both eat a lot of seafood...I am not a big beef eater but will have it if it is something special. I get lots of Italian. Love all kinds of Asian food but again, we will mostly want Mexican food . Not looking for high end restaurants unless maybe one splurge

      1. re: Mariana in Baja

        You may have already seen it, but I have a lengthy trip report from our visit to Mexico City a couple of months ago ( http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/844147 ) but we also went crazy for the more modest stuff. The small restaurants that come to mind at the moment that we thought were special were Coox Hanal (Yucatan cuisine), Cocina Mi Lupita (mole), Fonda El Refugio (lovely, slightly upscale home cooking), Fonda Margerita (real open kitchen home cooking) and Cafe El Popular (late night Mexican diner-style). All were great. We have tons of pics here: http://tastytrix.blogspot.com/2012/04...

        We also had a lot of great street food and other stuff. Our only excursion into Polanco was to eat at Dulce Patria, which was a nice restaurant but not more special than the more modest places we went, we didn't feel. Mexico City is an extraordinary city. Make sure to come back and tell us what you have!

        1. re: kukubura

          thank you so much. just what I was looking for.

        2. re: Mariana in Baja

          First, I would recommend El Bajío at Av. Cuitlahuac. We were there a couple of months ago, and I would prefer to go on a weekday next time, not avery busy Sunday.

          Second, I suggest El Cardenal. We have been only to the Palma location in Centro. Cristina has recommended the location in the Sheraton Alameda.

          Both are good choices for traditional Mexican food in somewhat upscale surroundings. Overall, we found the service at El Bajío to be more congenial.

          Friends have strongly recommended Nico's in Azcapotzalco (very near El Bajio) but we haven't tried it yet.

          On our next visit we will try the appealing Con Sabor a Tixtla, in Colonia Roma Norte, which features Guerrense cuisine. http://www.consaboratixtla.com/

          It's just around the corner from another of our favorites, Fonda La Veracruzana, a small seafood restaurant. I imagine that Veracruzana style seafood is different from Baja California style.

          Photo of Carnitas estilo El Bajío.

           
          1. re: Mariana in Baja

            Chiles en nogada are of course seasonal- late August through September. It has been some years since I lived in Polanco, but I recall strolling around Masaryk and the Parque Lincoln neighborhood and noticed numerous restaurants offering them as a special. Interpretations vary, and some are chilled, some room temp, some slightly warm. I favor the chilled and I could eat them 3 times a week. If you notice pomegranates in the fruiterias, chiles en nogada are nearby somewhere.

            1. re: Veggo

              I haven't tried them yet but La Ki-K in Condesa has chiles en nogada year-round. Corner of Fernando Montes de Oca and Atlixco.

              1. re: Veggo

                I was just at Casa Merlos (recommended by Ruth below) and it turns out they're going to be serving them starting July 1 (a little early isn't that?) until September 16. So I assume their chiles en nogada are as excellent as the rest of their food. Ruth, surely you've had them? I can't imagine they'd be anything but outstanding.

          2. Lots of excellent recs above. A couple of my all-time favs haven't been mentioned yet, both in Roma: First El Parnita. The story here if memory serves is that the father traveled around Mexico collecting recipes and the family carries on his legacy in the form of the restaurant. The menu is mostly antojitos and the selection is quite unique. The lomo and pierna ("Viajero" IIRC) is especially delicious. Excellent salsas too.

            Then on weekends there's El Hidalguense. As I recall the family has a ranch in Hidalgo and on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays they bring true pit-roasted barbacoa, mixiotes, and the like into the city. And they have options for the more adventurous -- sesos, criadillas, and (in season -- not sure when that is exactly) gusanos, chinicuiles, and escamoles. It's also a good place to sample some pulque.

            6 Replies
            1. re: Soul Vole

              Certainly some good recs here but am surprised no one has mentioned Azul by Chef Ricardo Munoz Zurita who during Nogada season offers them in several different ways, like all Mexican cuisine there is not just one right way . He now has, besides the Cuidad Universidad original location, Azul Condesa on Av. Nuevo Leon closest to corner of calle Laredo and the most beautiful Azul Centro Historico on calle Isabela la Catolica, site of the Habita hotel, where you can shop chocolates at Que Bo from Chef Jose Ramon Castillo and pick up some wonderful mexican kitchen items at Culinaria Mexicana, all on the second floor.

              I strongly recommend, as does Anonimo, that you visit El Bajio BUT only the original site on Av. Cuitlahuac and stick to the anotojitos section where if you order one of everything you will see an incredible diversity of dishes and styles. A resounding YES to Nicos only one street north of El Bajio and doing the most incredible of dishes from different areas and eras of Mexican cuisine, rec;s here are for the Sopa Seca de Nata, any of their salads, their Veronica bean soup, check their daily and seasonal specialties, their tortillas are made in house ...

              Definitely Maximo in Colonia Roma, ex Pujol alum Chef Eduardo Garcia at half the price doing a daily market menu that always is wonderful and satisfying. Same can be said of Quintonile by Chef Jorge Vallejo, another ex Pujol alum, in Polanco.

              I would skip Fonda el Refugio (Grandmom and mom are both gone) and head west to Casa Merlo for the best in Puebla style cuisine - open only Thursday to Sunday.

              And for seafood Contramar on Av. Durango in Roma Norte close to the Glorieta Cibeles - open only for comida 1 -6 PM every day - Pescado a la Talla, Tuna tostadas, small cups of Caldo de Camaron and ask to have a piece of the fig tart set aside for you or there may not be any left ..

              More later ..

              1. re: Ruth in Condechi

                Maximo mi amor!!! Ruth - I agree, Maximo was just fabulous - I ate at Pujol too - that food is on a different plane - almost slightly experimental (but delicious!) but Maximo has it hands down: fresh market driven menu. My friend and I walked by earlier and made a reservation and then returned for dinner at 9 - there was a huge line which didn't recede till 1030p, but they honored our reservation immediately. Absolutely loved Contramar - they don't take reservations, but ask if you can sit at the bar if its crowded, or be prepared to wait. Fabulous dining experiences.

                1. re: Ruth in Condechi

                  brief reply with more to follow LOVED Contramar - chiles en nogado withf fish - amazing. We walked away from Azul - very unimpressed - too pretentious. We were not impressed with the chocolate place either. Will put my notes together when I get home next week.

                2. re: Soul Vole

                  Soul Vole:
                  El Hidalguense is near the Mercado Medellín, IIRC?

                  1. re: Anonimo

                    Yes, half a block to the west. Campeche between Manzanillo and Medellín.

                    1. re: Soul Vole

                      We went to El Hidalguense last Friday morning with local friends. I thoroughly enjoyed it, and definitely want to return, perhaps to try some of their more exotic foods. Details on my blog.
                      http://mexkitchen.blogspot.mx/2012/07...

                3. Despite the fact that I end up at Costco Polanco during trips to the DF, I always feel like Polanco is far from everything (probably because I stay in La Condesa).

                  Lots of great suggestions already offered, though I have to disagree with the assertion that you must only visit the original El Bajio in Azcapotzalco. I've eaten at several of the locations (Parque Delta, Insurgentes, Polanco) and all have been great places to eat.

                  One of the great things about Mexico City Colonias (neighborhoods) are their weekly markets (tianguis). Each neighborhood has an open air market one day of the week - and there's always plenty to see, buy and eat. Many of the small vendors there produce fantastic eats and I highly recommend them.

                  In the colonia Escandon, on Calle Progreso is a little tiny joint called Benjamin Franklin. This is the home of pambacitos, little balls of fried dough stuffed with meats, cheese or whatever you desire. Amazing.

                  And my favorite tacos al pastor place is open only at night: El Vilsito on Universidad. You'll need a car or taxi to take you there but it is worth the trip. The tacos al pastor and the volcan are incredible. I usually take an order of pastor to go with me on the plane home.

                  1 Reply
                  1. re: onocoffee

                    How does the fried chicken at Costco stack up to Royal Farms? ;)

                    Your other recs sound awesome. Wish we'd gotten to check out El Vilsito. Next time!

                  2. Consider these places that range from the classic quesadilla, to one of the favorites in the summer, ending with the new stuff that Mexican are promoting.
                    loncheria Maria Isabel
                    Traditional Quesadillas just like any Mexican food market, they are among the most famous in the city, you won’t regret it. They also have tostadas, sopecitos and flautas. This place is in the center of Polanco so it will be very convenient, I recommend it in the morning or as a Lunch.
                    Emilio Castelar 14
                    Between Temístocles & Arquímedes, Col. Polanco Chapultepec, Tel. 5281 3835
                    Mi Gusto Es
                    Culiacan style Fish and Selfish food, for your friend this is what Mexican fish tacos and tostadas should taste. If you like hot-spicy food ask for aguachile (raw shrimps cooked in lime and chile) and toritos mixtos (grilled marlin and shrimp covered in chile güero in a spicy sauce). Ceviches and Tostadas are really good.
                    Torcuato Tasso 324-M
                    Between Presidente Masaryk y Horacio, Col. Polanco Chapultepec, Tel. 5254-5678
                    La Bipolar
                    Mexican New fusion cuisine, trying to assemble an old school Cantina with a twist. The palce is funny and really good. In the second floor they have a bar, so is a good idea to start with dinner and stay for a drink. Quesadillas with hibiscus and Tacos de arrachera are a must in this place, but all the food is amazing. For drinks try Cucumber Martini. This place is in the heart of Coyoacan in the south of the city.
                    Malintzin 155, col. Coyoacán

                    La Bipolar
                    Malintzin 155, col. Coyoacán, Tel. 5484-8230
                    Mi Gusto Es
                    Torcuato Tasso 324-M
                    Between Presidente Masaryk y Horacio, Col. Polanco Chapultepec, Tel. 5254-5678
                    loncheria Maria Isabel
                    Emilio Castelar 14
                    Between Temístocles & Arquímedes, Col. Polanco Chapultepec, Tel. 5281 3835

                    1 Reply
                    1. re: chocklock

                      Thank you so very much. We will report back after our visit