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Jun 5, 2012 03:35 PM

At last! Good BBQ.

Tourists may want to ignore this unless you've rented a car. It's out in the sticks. Waaay out...

Deep in the neighborhood east of Rancho and Gowan is a meat market named John Mull's Meats. They've been at that location for more than 70 years. They've only been doing catering for the last few years and I was lucky enough to sample their 'que at an off road event named Hump N Bump. The Vegas Valley 4 Wheelers have been staging this event for more than 30 years and a couple of years ago, they hired John Mull's Meats to cater the Saturday night BBQ at the raffle party.

Last weekend, a new episode of Diners Drive-ins and Dives airs and I was shocked, honestly shocked to see Guy's red Camaro cruising The Strip. This town is so cluttered with chain restaurants I could not imagine any other restaurant that would fit in with Triple D.

Guy drives out to the sticks. Out to John Mull's Meats and while there's no actual restaurant there, just the one building that houses the butcher shop, the show stages a temporary back "restaurant" consisting of their catering trailers, hot tables and grills. If you watch the show a local motorcycle club was the lucky recipient of The Food Network's largess in a makeshift backyard BBQ behind the butcher shop. At the end of the episode, Guy mutters: "If you build it..."

And they have.

They put a new hot table inside opposite the counter where you order the meat products. And they built a new covered building outside with picnic tables to give you a comfortable place to eat. Well, it was comfortable *today* considering we're having a cool spell and it was only 82° at 11:30AM when they opened the lunch counter. However because they were running late, they handed out ribs, gratis, to those of us waiting in line.

There's two types of people in the world. People who like to gnaw meat off the bone and people who don't. I'm one of the later. If I'm eating 'que, I want brisket, hot links, pulled pork. Ribs don't do it for me. But these ribs... O.M.G. These ribs were outstanding. Juicy and so flavorful.

Eventually, they started serving food we started buying. Hal and I each got a 2&2 combo. Brisket and hot links for me, brisket and ribs for him. His potato salad was good and we both thought the baked beans were among the best we've ever tasted. We think that there might be a lot of some trimmings that make it into the beans because it was getting awfully close to being better classified as a chili. My mac and cheese was horrible. Tasted like left overs and really dry.

A 2&2 is $14, a 3&3 is $16.

Living south of the Green Valley Resort makes the trip up to John Mull's Meats a major schlepp. If all I wanted was meat, I could easily walk to Branded Meats and Deli on Horizon Ridge. It's the BBQ that will keep me coming back.

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  1. Thanks so much for the tip shamu, I'll definitely be making a stop there soon!

    1. My office is in North Las Vegas and we have been buying meats from Mulls for years for the company BBQ's. We have also been on the receiving end of their catering - excellent food at a reasonable price. Now I have another option for lunch!

      1. Good to hear. I keep meaning to visit John Mull's; now I have another reason. Maybe this will get Memphis Championship to take notice and work harder, too.

        N.B. Guy Fieri is a UNLV alumnus. This isn't his first "return" visit to LV.

        1. I saw the episode last night and that was the first time I had even heard of Mull's Meats "Road Kill Grill" (That's what the restaurant portion is called...)

          So I immediately reached for the computer, googled it, and realized it is only about five miles from my house. Practically in the same neighborhood by Vegas standards:-)

          I only regret that DH doesn't eat meat, so we won't be heading there tonight. But he travels during the week for business, and that's when I get my meat fix. Better yet, Mulls is on the way home from work (or at least could be with a slight detour:-)...I'm a ribs person, but I'm even more of a hot links fan...and although they you aren't supposed to watch sausage being made I'm dying to try them after watching the episode!!! Thanks for the report!

          2 Replies
          1. re: janetofreno

            I had every intention of being good and going for a swim and then having a salad tonight after work, but I had an errand to run in the Cheyenne/Decatur neighborhood. When the errand was done I realized that it wasn't quite six and I was just a few blocks from Mull's. So I gave up on being good and got some takeout. I am here to attest that those ribs are amazing! I got a ribs/hot links combo...enough food for the next two meals! The hot links are good, but those ribs are amazing. And I love that they serve them sans sauce and invite you to help yourself to either spicy or mild barbque sauce. (So I can do my favorite trick of combining the two and not feel silly....). With food in hand and two takeout containers of my sauce combo, I headed home and had a cold beer and those great ribs....My only regret is that they don't have coleslaw. Agree that the beans are wonderful and the mac and cheese is forgettable (although not awful....). Check it out, folks!

            1. re: janetofreno

              Last Saturday I stopped by John Mulls and got the three meat/ two side combo. Brisket, ribs and hot links, along with potato salad and baked beans were my choices. The brisket was fine and tender, though nothing amazing. The hot links came bathed in a BBQ sauce and were pretty darn good, and the ribs were great. As Janet mentioned they were served dry (which I prefer) and I alternated between eating them that way and dabbing a bit of sauce on them. The potato salad was ok, and the baked beans were very good.

              Even though John Mulls is quite a distance from where I live it will probably be a semi-regular stop whenever I'm in a barbecue mood. It's definitely on the better end of the barbecue scale in Vegas.

          2. Can anyone tell me about the ribs at Hush Puppy?