Need recs for one day visit to LA of unique cheap ethnic eats
My wife and I are in LA for just a Saturday, and she's never been. We would like to visit 2-3 restaurants/food trucks/markets w/ food stalls that highlight L.A.'s unique cultural diversity. We're from New York, so we're especially excited about things that are different from what we can get here. We're culinarily adventurous but don't eat seafood, sadly. Last time in town I went to Flame (and Saffron and Rose), Jitlada, and La Casita Mexicana, and enjoyed all three, although all felt very 'safe' (not off the beaten path). We have a car, so stops can be a little spread out.
Your recommendations would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
To me, off the beaten path would mean going deep into one or more of the enclaves. San Gabriel Valley for all things Chinese and a lot of Vietnamese is the obvious one, but Koreatown is so dense with culture as well. The Latino communities around East LA, Lincoln Heights, Pico/Union and Westlake/Rampart areas are culturally deep.
One Saturday can be quite a day, depending on when one starts and ends. My first compulsion would be to start out eating carnitas at Carnitas Michoacan since they are always open, but that might kill your appetite for the first half of the day. The many family-run panadarias are an incredible bargain, and a few baked goods with a champurrado would be a way to get your appetite in gear. As many panaderias as there are, one has really stood out in my mind, but you might consider this to be safe as well. I owe this following rec to posters Liu and Dommy. La Monarcha is a small panadaria chain that also serves some cafe food. Their coffee drinks are very nice as well. The quality is of a level that I've personally not experienced at more traditional panadarias. Nothing against them - they are in a fiercely competitive market that caters to the local communities that are very price-sensitive (as are so many of the ethnic enclaves). La Monarcha feels somewhat more gringo-fied and is more expensive, but it's not a major investment food-wise, and I think it would be a good way to jump start your day.
A place of Mexican cuisine that stands out as unique in my mind is La Flor de Yucatan. Yucatecan cuisine is not common in LA. This place specializes in it. Located on Hoover a few blocks from the 10 freeway, La Flor de Yucatan a panaderia, small shop,cafe/deli counter and cultural enlightenment center of sorts that makes it a big-bang for your buck one-stop. The baked goods are delicious as are all the hot savory dishes like cochinita pibil, vaporcitas, morcia, panuchos and kibis. Much of it travels well - we end up ordering a lot at one time and have friends over to feast. The pickled red onions are standard with most of the dishes, as are the habanero chiles - use the onions liberally and use your judgement on the chiles. They do have a very nice creamy habanero salsa as well. For me, the highlight of this place is learning about the history of food of the Yucatan via Marc, the man at the helm here. He's very approachable and his patience in explaining the food is almost librarian-like - he knows it that well.
Koreatown is like a deeply boiled down brew of Korean culture. Relative to the size of LA, it's not that big, but as far as enclaves go, it is so thick with food offerings of such variety and ethnic matter-of-factness. Jonathan Gold recently created a list, "60 Korean Dishes Every Angeleno Should Know." He gets slapped around on this board for some unknown reason - he used to be a poster here - but I personally find his articles to be well-written, informative and great reads. Here's the list:
I think Korean bbq is probably the most common entry point for many trying out this cuisine, but I find dishes like kimchi or seafood pancake, bossam, soon tofu or bibimbap to be very approachable as well. I think the issue for your day is where to fit in some type(s) of Korean food relative to the rest of your food experiences. Koreatown is traffic Hell. The food can be very satisfying and filling. Many places will offer panchan (really nice side dishes) and are hard to stop eating. imho, you'll be done if you eat in Koreatown at any point. Korean eateries reflect an ethos of what Jewish and Italian mothers are known for - no one leaves unless every corner of one's stomach is stuffed. Doing bbq might be a nice way to finish the day, but the bbq places are very popular particularly on the Friday and Saturday nights. It is definitely a more pricy ethnic option as well, though not a deal-breaker for many eaters' budgets. If you decide to go this route, Soot Bull Jeep would be an option but the smell of smoke everywhere (including you and your clothes) can be off-putting - but you're looking to go deep, right? My guess would be around $50 for two. Park's is extremely loved by many but it can be difficult to get in for dinner on a Saturday - make a reservation as far in advance as they will allow unless you are willing to wait at least an hour. The service is very good and the cuts of meat are excellent - you will pay more here. I'm only the tip of the iceberg on Koreatown - I'm a total novice - so I hope other posters will expand.
The San Gabriel Valley (SGV) is probably the culinary diamond of the LA board. It is vast, full of various eateries from different cultures and geographic areas of Chinese Asia, and can be had even on a modest budget. But like other ethnic enclaves, many find it to be a hard nut to crack because of language barriers. Another issue is the San Gabriel Valley is not close enough for many to consider on a regular basis. I think it's totally worth overcoming any perceived issues. I don't speak Mandarin, Cantonese or Vietnamese(xie xie, do ze, cam on is about it). I live 30-40 minutes away (on a good day), and I try to get out here at least once a month - sometimes once a week if I'm lucky.
Being from New York means you probably have access to very good Chinese eateries, but the sense I get from posters here is that Chinese in the SGV trumps New York Chinese, aside from one or two specific cuisines. Cuisines from parts of China that were relatively unknown to novices like me have become very accessible in the past few of years. Beijing Pie House, Kam Hong Garden, Omar's Xinxiang Halal, Qingdao Bread Food, and Sweethome Grill are examples of such places. The vast majority of these types of places can offer a very unique meal and will leave plenty of money left in your wallet. Lucky Noodle King is Sichuan, and their dan dan mian is always on my mind.
Vietnamese is well established in the SGV as well. I've enjoyed Golden Deli, Saigon Flavor, and Vietnam Restaurant in the SGV, but relative quick and cheap would be banh mi. Banh Mi My Tho on Valley is excellent (charbroiled pork #8) but all the major avenues and blvds have banh mi chains as well like Mr. Baguette, Banh Mi Che Cali, and Lee's. They all serve their purpose, and are very competitive.
Yes, very good bulavinaka. One minor thing, the SGV is "vast" in number of restaurants and choices, but not "vast" in horribly spread out...at least the Western SGV. Hundreds of Chinese restaurants are in a roughly 5 mile by 2.5 mile radius. I don't want the OP to be dissuaded from visiting the SGV because they interpreted vast as being far flung and widely scattered.
Great restaurant recommendations, +1.
Beautifully written, bulavinaka!!
I would recommend, if they want bahn mi, to get them at the end of the day (or whenever they are in the area for them) and take it with to eat on the next leg of their trip, so they can pack-in more of the food that would be difficult to travel with. I have taken them several times with me on the plane and they are very easy to eat and not stinky in the least (and they hold up well!). Happy travels!
Thanks for the kind words, folks. I'm just channeling all the great recs, info and insight from all of you.
I hope I didn't sound like the SGV is to vast of a behemoth to conquer. It only is if one tries to take it all in within a year (just my opinion). But taken in small bites, it's a Chow Nirvana. Wiki states the SGV is about 200 square miles, and that eight of the top ten cities with the highest concentration of Chinese-Americans are in the San Gabriel Valley - that says a lot. When driving from end to end, one does notice different areas that are more Latino, Caucasian, or Asian, but the most noticeable cultural enclaves are by far Chinese. I guess my point is that while the SGV is a huge area, it's so target-rich with eating potential that it verges on ridiculous. I've mentioned somewhere in a past thread that, as much as the SGV impresses me with the number of places to eat, I couldn't live out here because I need some space between my eateries. e.g, most Hounds would be giddy with one xlb place to drop by in their town. In the SGV, it's not unusual to find a couple in one shopping center. Here on the LA board, we can gripe, dissect and banter about who has the best, who has the most homey, and who has slipped on the xlb rankings with a full list of contenders to toss around. And by the by, xiao long bao are buns (bao), not dumplings (jiaozi). :)
One area you might explore briefly is North Hollywood. There's a lot of diverse offerings in a pretty compact area.
For instance, I might consider:
Northern Thai at Sri Siam. Get the nam prik oom (eggplant and green chile dip) and the crispy rice with sour pork salad. For a late-night Thai alternative, Krua Thai may seem conventional, but its Pad Thai Krua Thai is not what most people typically think about when they think of pad thai.
Lamajeune (Armenian pizza) at Sweet One Bakery and Kebab House at Woodman and Oxnard or Dream Bakery on Sherman Way near Coldwater. Just get the lamajeune, which are about $0.75 each.
Tacos: asada or birria tacos from El Taco Llama on Sherman Way by Lankershim or, if evening, asada tacos from the Tacos La Fonda truck at Vanowen and Vineland (I think that's where it still is). If you go to Sweet One Bakery, the Rigo's Tacos in the same center has only so-so tacos, but a blistering hot and smokey salsa roja that is phenomenal.
I'll admit that I would not consider any of those places (except Sri Siam) the "best" in the city, but they are all within a few miles of one another, so they can be visited in rapid succession.
If you expand your horizons a bit, there is pho at one of the two pho places at Sepulveda and Victory in Sherman Oaks, Natas pastries for Portuguese natas -- little bruleed pieces of custard -- and all sorts of unusual offerings at Alcazar in Encino (lamb's brains and various preparations of Nayye, raw beef).
If you don't want to go to the San Fernando Valley, you might consider starting in San Gabriel Valley and then heading toward downtown. Stop at Moles La Tia for Oaxacan food. Then go to Mexicali for the vampiro (like a quesadilla but with a garlic aioli) or the cachetada (a tostada-like concoction that I get with chorizo and have ranchera-style, with a fried egg on top).
You could then move into Koreatown. I'm not an expert on Korean food and Korean BBQ would be the "safe" option. However, there are plenty of threads describing options there that would reflect a wide variety of Korean options in the area.
Great list. I would add Don Adrian's at Kester and Victory for cemitas poblanas, a truly lovely Mexican sandwich. Make sure to get the added string cheese. You might also hit up El Criollo on Van Nuys for lomo saltado, and Puro Sabor on Van Nuys and Victory for Peruvian food - although I think their best dishes are seafood. Enjoy!
Those are good options, though I wasn't blown away by El Criollo when I tried it for the first time last week. And it's hard to recommend Puro Sabor if someone is not going to have ceviche. Takatis for pollo ala brasa or the sanguchon sandwich would be an alternative for Peruvian.
El Carrrusel, which is kitty corner to Don Adrian, also is a good option for pupusas.
And something that would really highlight LA's food diversity is to go to Ranch 99 Market at Victory and Van Nuys for some Chinese or dumplings, then go to one of the Vallarta Markets for a couple of tacos or guisados (maybe the goat birria) and agua frescas, and finally go to an Armenian or Middle Eastern market.
I was a regularl and frequent poster. I like their bread. I'm perfectly happy with them. They are tiny - if unhappy people stay away, makes it easier for me. I like it - the food, the service, the price.
have no idea why people wouldn't like it. To be fair, this is about the one on kester. the one on van nuys is good, was their once, and perfectly fine... much bigger and easier to sit and eat at.
CEMITAS POBLAMAS DON ADRIAN
6522 VAN NUYS BLVD
CEMITAS POBLANAS DON ADRIAN
14902 VICTORY BLVD (at Kester)
I'd go for the tamale and atole and champurrado ladies in the jon's parking lot at 8th and irolo in koreatwon. 10pm or so is fine. one dollar per tamale. one dollar for an atole or a champurrado. Across the street on the south side of 8th street (east of irolo) there's a guy grilling meat, if flame is too safe.
I'd look at the people selling the great fruit cups - average price 5 bucks. You'll see some in macarthur park. If you're in the north valley for some reason, you'll see a cart e.g. in the 76 gas station on rinaldi - near the denny's ... seriously that will be far for you and they're everywhere. Try the ones usually on shatto or westmoreland near Virgil and wilshire - just north of wilshire.
el taurino has a nice taco selection on hoover and 9th st. I'd go in the daytime or early evening. the area can be a little much for peopel who kdon't know it at night.
Korean i've enjoyed lately - the Corner Place - THE CORNER PLACE-KOREAN BBQ
2819 W JAMES M. WOOD BLVD
yes you have korean bbq but this one has great cold noodles to drink and slurp and they're good without the charcoal that stinks up your clothes and after all you're travelling light. -
for seafood there's the grilled seafood no meat at Flaming Clam Grill... just checked - it's closed. Maybe someone else can suggest a place for the grilled korean seafood.
Forkorean take on raw fish - try A-Won - just get the al bap, fish roe on rice with sauce, or the hwe dup bap. two can split it.
Also, Hwa Sun Ji on wilshire has a very nice selection of fruit infusions, root infusions, and other sweet tea-like drinks (as well as tea, but go for the other stuff)
HWA SUN JI
3960 WILSHIRE BLVD #100
(pakring in rear)
A WON 'JAPANESE" RESTAURANT
913 S VERMONT AVE
As well, go to Mercado la Paloma on Grand near USC. Chichen Itza has wonderful yucatecan food. There's also a peruvian place in the complex people love, but i"d go for the yucatan style dishes.
3655 S GRAND AVE C-6
For something a little more elegant - leave yourself in the hands of your hosts at Babita in San Gabriel. lovely mexican food, made at home.
1823 S SAN GABRIEL BLVD
while you're in the neighborhood, consider Shaanxi gourmet. Ask forthe liangpi noodles and the rou jia mou. usually lamb, here the "burgers" are pork. And more suggestions. If more adventurous, ask for the yangrou paomo - and ask them to show you if they can how to break the "pita" (flat bread) in teh bowl yourself, to mimic the spaetzle they make when they do it in the kitchen.
8518 E VALLEY BLVD #102
For an interesting chinese dessert - go to Beijing duck house and get the "ba-si ping guo) dessert, fried apples like you've never had them, battered then dipped into ice water, which makes the sugar syrup turn into hard rock candy and the inside of the fritter is soft and melting. the beijing duck is good as well, and can be ordered by phone 1/2 hour in advance if you dont' want to wait.
BEIJING DUCK HOUSE
aka PAN LAI GE
6420 N ROSEMEAD BLVD
Also, in westwood, go late night to Canary Chicken, order the dizi (lamb) if they have it. If not, eat waht the rest eat... have to wait a bit, thisis for saturday night, or friday night, after 1am.
oops- yelp says their cloed. They might be mediterranean grill or not. skip it.
instead, go to
NERSSES VANAK RESTAURANT
6524 SAN FERNANDO RD
ask for the dizi or the ab goosht - lamb stew - ask if you can grind it at the table.
Finally - go to Beeps in the valley at Woodley and Sherman way. Have some milkshakes and a chili size (seriously) and see what old food was in southern california. Similarly, if near the beach, go to Chez jay, get the sand dabs (nothing else on the menu is as good) and maybe the salad with green goddess dressing. And a bloody mary. and enjoy.
Oh - for tempura omakase - go to Komatsu in Torrance
1644 W CARSON ST #B
for three different grades of soba (accompanied by a side of deep fried eel) try Otafuku
OTAFUKU HOME DELI
16525 S WESTERN AVE
and for okonomiyaki i'd suggest
2140 W ARTESIA BLVD #N
feel free to google, call or ask for other suggestions. I think this is a nice start
(Also, live sea urchins, terminated to order at Quality Seafood in redondo beach, and various clams and oysters and fish - nice touch sitting outside...
QUALITY SEA FOOD RESTAURANT
130 S INTERNATIONAL BDWK
parking lot is at western terminus of torrance blvd - enjoy).
btw tacos de sesos is a little off the beaten path or of tripas de leche if you're at a good taqueria. again - have a great visit.
OOPS - forgot these
1657 OCEAN AVE
BEEPS NO. 1
16063 SHERMAN WY
FYI, sadly, Komatsu has closed. There is a ramen shop there now. I have no news whether Komatsu has relocated.
Also the Peruvian place at Mercado La Paloma, Mo- Chica, has also closed in favor of its new Downtown LA location. I believe the same group is putting up something new there.