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Splendido

the_beezelet May 31, 2012 12:10 PM

Went to Splendido Saturday evening. Have been a few times over the years but this was our first time since David Lee stepped down. The last meal we had with David Lee still at the helm was outstanding in every way… we spent a small fortune but the evening was magic with perfect food, wine and service.

So we knew when we went there on Saturday that we wouldn’t likely be able to top (or even match) that experience, but we still wanted to try it in its latest incarnation. It was a letdown.

We choose the tasting menu with wine and it started off bumpy. An amuse of foie gras foam with a strawberry ribbon that tasted of nothing at all, followed by an interesting and tasty smoked oyster served with a yummy gin drink. Following the amuses was a lovely English Pea Soup with a lobster claw, but the flavour of the soup masked the lobster so it ended up just being a texture.

Then we waited. And waited. And waited.

Eventually the next course came out – white asparagus with morels… one of my favourite springtime dishes. However the asparagus wasn’t peeled and was stringy, and the morels weren’t properly cleaned and were gritty. Bleah. I complained, politely. I don’t recall the wine match but it wasn’t a traditional asparagus wine like Pinot Gris or Sauvignon Blanc, and it wasn’t a great match.

We then moved on to the ‘main’ course, which was a plate with 3-4 different stylings of pork. All okay but bland and boring. The Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris that was supposed be served with this was not poured as the bottles were corked. The substitution was an Oregon Pinot Gris, which was adequate but nowhere close to the Zind. (I think there may have been another course between the asparagus course and the pork course… I have forgotten it or maybe just pushed it out of my mind).

By this time, it was such a sad state of affairs that we just both wanted to leave, so we told our server to skip the next course called “Peanut Butter and Jelly” and went straight to a Chocolate Mint dessert. This was lovely, not too minty and not too sweet. It was served with Carpano Antico (an ancient style vermouth) which tastes about the same as Buckleys, but at least the sommelier swapped it out for port when I asked our server if we were drinking cough syrup.

A note about the portion sizes… everything was small. I didn’t mind that the first few courses were small, it is a tasting menu after all, but was expecting that the ‘main’, such as it was, would be a slightly larger portion. I didn’t expect to leave hungry… we are not really big eaters I could have happily eaten a slice or two of pizza on the way home. The wine servings were also small - looked to be about 2oz per glass, and although there were 6 glasses served throughout the meal, it never felt like there was enough wine to linger over , and instead there was only enough to have a couple of sips with each course, and in between courses you were left with no wine, obviously no food, and in some cases, a long wait.

I don’t think I’d be quite so pissed off if it wasn’t expensive, but the tasting menu with wine is $200pp, so once you add in tax and tip it is a very expensive night out (at least in my books). I am happy to pay a lot for a meal, but in return for my hard earned cash, I expect more than this.

  1. l
    LexiFirefly Apr 27, 2013 04:24 PM

    So no one has said anything about the CN-S review yet? I had a very similar experience, all in all. Thought more people would be talking about it.

    9 Replies
    1. re: LexiFirefly
      d
      dubchild Apr 27, 2013 05:06 PM

      I guess I just don't care enough to pay for the article.

      1. re: dubchild
        r
        radiopolitic Apr 27, 2013 07:16 PM

        Just use Google Chrome Incognito.

        1. re: radiopolitic
          non sequitur May 14, 2013 11:43 AM

          Or use this link?
          http://m.theglobeandmail.com/life/foo...

      2. re: LexiFirefly
        hal2010 Apr 29, 2013 06:22 PM

        I was surprised that they got 2-1/2 stars given the tone of the review.

        1. re: hal2010
          Charles Yu Apr 29, 2013 07:06 PM

          They used to be 3-1/2 stars! Looks like the demotion already taken place!!

          1. re: hal2010
            justxpete Apr 29, 2013 07:47 PM

            The first half was largely gushing. I actually thought he skimped them a 1/2 star, given the tone. He's saying some of the dishes are boring, but most of it is excellent, if you know what to order - so perhaps his expectations were too high. But at what restaurant is every single dish a knock out? Very, very few. Not even Per Se - and it's got 3 michee's!

            That said, I thought it was a fair review, for him - he's certainly entitled to his opinion. But I'll take a table-full of perfectly cooked and seasoned seafood any day!

          2. re: LexiFirefly
            a
            Apprentice Apr 30, 2013 04:58 AM

            CN-S is absolutely useless to me and he (or any other reviewer for that matter) should only be relevant to anyone if his tastes align with yours. I'll be at Splendido in a couple of weeks.

            1. re: Apprentice
              justxpete May 2, 2013 03:30 PM

              Oddly enough, Joanne Kates' views align with CH's general disposition and not CNS', in that Splendido is improving their game.

              Up to 7 from last year's 18.

              http://www.postcity.com/Post-City-Mag...

              ps, she sure loves her Scaramouche... lol. Untouchable!

              1. re: justxpete
                t
                Toucan67 May 3, 2013 01:07 PM

                Not sure what was bugging CNS. Had dinner for 6 last night to mark two special occasions and everybody was happy and we were treated very well.

                What I noted most was amongst the 6 of us we ate very widely from the menu so not sure where all the boring food that CNS disliked was hiding.

                All this not withstanding the top of the line customer service. Was pleased to see overnight that JK bumped them back up in her list.

          3. f
            Flexitarian Apr 13, 2013 09:02 PM

            Had a wonderful meal at Splendido tonight, but just a couple things:

            The Boston lettuce salad was nicely presented but there didn't seem to be hardly any champagne dressing on it. Is that the way it is supposed to be?

            We ordered 2 bottles of wine, both the same. The first bottle was presented to us and the person ordering was given the opportunity to taste it first. The second bottle was served to us immediately from a carafe with no opportunity to see the label first or to taste it. Isn't the whole idea behind seeing the bottle to make sure it is what you ordered and then to taste it to make sure it is not off before it is served?

            What gives? Am I missing something about some new protocol?

            4 Replies
            1. re: Flexitarian
              happycamper Apr 13, 2013 09:31 PM

              Did you order two bottles upfront? If you did, it makes sense to me that the second was already decanted.

              1. re: happycamper
                d
                dubchild Apr 13, 2013 09:41 PM

                The protocol is if the wine needs decanting, that gets done first and then you taste and the same gets repeated with the second bottle, regardless of if both bottles are the same. Maybe your server slipped up or is inexperience, either way it sounds like it didn't ruin your experience.

                1. re: happycamper
                  f
                  Flexitarian Apr 14, 2013 07:22 AM

                  No, we ordered them separately

                  1. re: Flexitarian
                    justxpete Apr 14, 2013 07:28 AM

                    That's a bit odd then, agreed. If you had of ordered them both at the same time, and they decanted them for you, then I wouldn't see that as odd - but to order them separately and not to have been offered is a little strange.

                    Glad the rest of your meal was enjoyable.

              2. s
                Sadistick Oct 2, 2012 12:55 PM

                I find the new Splendido inconsistent at best.

                We arranged a special dinner months back and requested sweet breads, all of which were poorly cleaned and executed.

                1. e
                  evansl Jun 2, 2012 12:33 PM

                  Actually, it sounds like the place has improved significantly since we were there a few years ago.

                  7 Replies
                  1. re: evansl
                    t
                    The Sausage King of Toronto Oct 1, 2012 02:21 PM

                    I went to Splendido for the first time on Friday. I have to (sadly) say, it fell really short of what I was expecting. Maybe I set the bar too high...who knows.

                    I opted for the tasting menu. Was going to go with the pork a la carte, but the tasting menu sounded too good.

                    The good:
                    multiple moments in the meal, I was asking myself "What is that flavour?" There were definitely some little touches in some of the dishes that made the meal more exciting and interesting.

                    Clean and fresh dishes. You could taste the quality.

                    The first bite of the fois gras parfait.

                    The bad:
                    Nothing really stood out. For the money you pay, I figure there should be one thing (just one) that blows your mind. That makes you say, I've had (X) before, but I've never had it like that.

                    slightly chewy lobster. (Tear)

                    The Ugly:
                    There's no ugly, it was a good meal. But that's about it. For $300+, it wasn't worth it.

                    It was like Home Alone 2. Good, but a week later you can't remember anything that happened.

                    1. re: The Sausage King of Toronto
                      justxpete Oct 1, 2012 02:28 PM

                      It may have been not quite as good as normal as Victor has been away for the last two weeks.

                      1. re: justxpete
                        estufarian Oct 2, 2012 12:26 PM

                        I'm not sure that's a valid excuse - the price is still the same!

                        However, I also visited recently when Victor was away and thought I detected a 'very slight' difference (somehow the food seemed 'less bright'). However, it was still an outstanding meal (for me) and confirmed Splendido as my top restaurant in Toronto (and hoping that somebody else can/will rise to the challenge!).

                      2. re: The Sausage King of Toronto
                        prima Oct 2, 2012 10:36 AM

                        I had a similar experience at Splendido.

                        I found the food tastier at the more somewhat more casual and more reasonably-priced Ici Bistro a few weeks ago.

                        After reading a lot of threads on the topic of Splendido over the past few years, it sounds like the tasting menus and special menus at Splendido wow much more frequently than the dishes off their carte.

                        Have any Chowhounds found any dishes on the current Splendido menu to be especially splendid? ;-)

                        1. re: prima
                          estufarian Oct 2, 2012 12:21 PM

                          I've only had tasting menus there recently so can't realistically comment - although I've had excellent versions of the Foie Parfait on several occasions.

                          1. re: estufarian
                            aser Oct 2, 2012 10:32 PM

                            the foie parfait is one of the best dishes in Toronto imo.

                            1. re: aser
                              justxpete Oct 3, 2012 08:05 AM

                              The agnolotti is always amazing, and is changed with the season according to available ingredients. Currently, the Heirloom tomato salad from Vickie's veggies is available (they are damn good tomatoes). The striploin and Ribeye are always outstanding as well, and they should have their parpadelle pasta w/ truffle in the next little while (my favourite dish in Toronto).

                    2. Dr. John Jun 1, 2012 03:17 PM

                      We were last at Splendido just before New Year's. The tasting menu we had had great flavours in the individual dishes, but lacked overall balance between the dishes. We seemed to get a string of very rich dishes in a row, which left us feeling a little bit sick by the end. When we next go back, we may opt for a la carte.

                      1. Notorious P.I.G. May 31, 2012 04:23 PM

                        Weird, I went last week and it was great. Had almost the same menu as you did as well.

                        Definitely a changing of the guard going on there right now though. I would maybe chock it up to that unfortunately because they're usually spot on.

                        3 Replies
                        1. re: Notorious P.I.G.
                          the_beezelet May 31, 2012 05:36 PM

                          Ok guys next time we go we are bringing one of you along!. Might be a bit boring for you but you all appear to have the inside track at Splendido... Getty Lee has that same inside track as he arrived about 45 mins after we did, and he certainly seemed to be getting top dollar service.
                          I made up for the bday debacle by making a gorgeous 2.5" grass fed rib eye last nigt (his actual bday) using the method below.

                          http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/844767

                          And next time you do one of those Riesling nights at Splendido...

                          1. re: the_beezelet
                            estufarian Jun 1, 2012 07:10 AM

                            Everything goes better with great wine!

                            1. re: estufarian
                              Charles Yu Jun 1, 2012 07:14 AM

                              And company!!!

                        2. Charles Yu May 31, 2012 03:47 PM

                          Sorry to hear about your experience!! Hope both Victor and Carlo will read your posting?!!!

                          1. justxpete May 31, 2012 01:33 PM

                            Splendido is easily one of the most consistent restaurants in Town. My SO and I have probably sent back 4 of 400 dishes in the years we've been going. Unfortunately for you, looks like they had a bad night! I've had all of the dishes you've mentioned, and found them to be delicious. I agree that the pork dish could be larger in portion size. I also agree about the Carpano - I had it with the Mint Chocolate dessert as well, and found it do be over-powering - turning my delicious dessert in to an italian debacle. I did not enjoy it at all. Lastly, as Estufarian alluded to, Victor, the current Chef, is the one who prepared your previous tasting menu, I'm sure. Although David Lee was the exec Chef, from all accounts, he was not there overly often (which I can personally attest to). Sorry to hear about your experience, however.

                            18 Replies
                            1. re: justxpete
                              j
                              JennaBean May 31, 2012 01:49 PM

                              I wonder if this is any reflection of Patrick's departure. I don't think it could all be as a result of that but it may have caused an off night.

                              1. re: JennaBean
                                jlunar May 31, 2012 01:51 PM

                                Ran through my mind too. There's definitely some changing of the guard in the kitchen over at Splendido right now.

                                1. re: JennaBean
                                  justxpete May 31, 2012 02:18 PM

                                  His last night was yesterday evening. That being said, there have been a few other staff changes so your sentiment may be correct.

                                  1. re: justxpete
                                    aser Jun 1, 2012 12:43 AM

                                    Change in staffing at restaurants is a constant, you as guests shouldn't notice it. As much as everybody likes to gossip about the latest comings & goings, it's been happening for years before blogs started reporting it.

                                    I would say hangovers are more likely for a misstep in food than staff changes, no matter how highly ranked the staff is. The foot soldiers cook the food, not the chef de cuisine.

                                    I still say Splendido is the most consistent "continental" restaurant in Toronto.

                                  2. re: JennaBean
                                    estufarian May 31, 2012 02:33 PM

                                    Patrick was DEFINITELY there on Saturday - a friend spoke to him.

                                    1. re: JennaBean
                                      justxpete May 31, 2012 02:47 PM

                                      Ps. Just made a reso. I'll find out tonight.

                                      I intend to frequent Acadia much more now as well, with Pat at the helm.

                                      1. re: justxpete
                                        justxpete Jun 1, 2012 09:30 AM

                                        I'm happy to report that Patrick's departure hasn't had any impact on the quality of the food at Splendido. I was there last night and the food was impeccable. I had the asparagus and the Foie Gras amuse as well. The asparagus was beyond reproach, the morels were not grainy whatsoever. I asked Carlo and Victory independently, and they said the morels are washed up to 20 times. Of course the asparagus was peeled, and it's definitely one of my favourite recurring, seasonal dishes at Splendido. My asparagus was not "stringy" whatsoever. As for the foie amuse, the texture of the foie is pretty delicate(as it was rasped), and the strawberry/rhubard gelee was meant to compliment the dish rather than over-power it. It was no fruit-rollup, but I don't think that's what they were after.

                                        I also wouldn't have skipped the peanut butter and jelly (near bottom)!

                                        http://www.foodjunkiechronicles.net/2...

                                        1. re: justxpete
                                          the_beezelet Jun 1, 2012 10:12 AM

                                          I guess the only logical conclusion is that we were there on a really off night.

                                          I can tell you, after eating white asparagus daily in Alsace a few years ago, that what I was served at Splendido on Saturday night was either not peeled, or if it was peeled, it wasn't peeled enough as it was still stringy. As to the morels... each of us had 2 morels on our plates - both of mine had grit and the b/f had grit in one of his.

                                          As mentioned below, I chalk this up to the curse of the b/f birthday debacles!

                                          1. re: justxpete
                                            d
                                            downtownfoodie Jun 2, 2012 08:52 AM

                                            amazing! cost?

                                            1. re: downtownfoodie
                                              justxpete Jun 2, 2012 09:27 AM

                                              That was someone else's pics that I linked to, that I happened to know of. I think the current tasting menu is $125 for 9 courses - I'm not sure what she paid for what looks like 16/17 courses.

                                              1. re: justxpete
                                                d
                                                downtownfoodie Jun 2, 2012 10:32 AM

                                                not bad. haven't been in almost a year...guess i know where i am heading soon :)

                                      2. re: justxpete
                                        the_beezelet May 31, 2012 02:03 PM

                                        I guess I wasn't clear... I knew that David Lee had moved on and was just referencing him as he was still exec Chef last time we were there prior to our visit this past weekend (it was in the final month before they closed down... a while ago obviously!). On that evening we spent at least 50% more than we did last weekend, but I didn't regret a penny. Only wish I could say the same about our recent visit!

                                        1. re: the_beezelet
                                          justxpete May 31, 2012 02:17 PM

                                          And perhaps we weren't clear - despite David Lee having still been there when you last visited, Victor (also the current chef and proprietor) was the one preparing your meal.

                                          1. re: the_beezelet
                                            jlunar May 31, 2012 02:19 PM

                                            I think it's just a style change - Victor was pretty much helming things in the last 6 months before Chef Lee left.

                                            My visits to Splendido are generally awesome (I go maybe once a season), so it's sad to hear you had a bad night with them. I will have to check 'em out again.. not that I ever really need an excuse to do that...!

                                            1. re: jlunar
                                              the_beezelet May 31, 2012 02:40 PM

                                              Oh this is depressing but it confirms that I can blame my b/f - lol.

                                              In our 19 years of bliss, we have only had two TRULY outstanding meals to celebrate his birthday. One was the aforementioned meal 3 years ago at Splendido, and the other was about 10 years ago in Amsterdam at Utrechtsedwarstafel. The remaining 17 birthday meals, regardless of $ spent or location (Thailand, Italy, France, NYC.. the list goes on) have been bombs.

                                              1. re: the_beezelet
                                                estufarian May 31, 2012 02:48 PM

                                                If you have bliss after 19 years it doesn't matter what meals you have.
                                                The meal will only be 'the icing on the cake' (so to speak).
                                                Hope your next meal makes your top three.

                                              2. re: jlunar
                                                justxpete Jun 1, 2012 09:31 AM

                                                I think the amount of time that Victor was running the show was much greater than 6 months.

                                                1. re: justxpete
                                                  jlunar Jun 1, 2012 09:42 AM

                                                  Probably so, but I wasn't sure how far back that went. I figured at least six months was pretty certain.

                                          2. estufarian May 31, 2012 01:20 PM

                                            Wow, that's too bad.

                                            My last 2 visits to Splendido (both this year) have been superb in every way - the most recent was written up by Charles Yu, on this Board.

                                            http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/839428

                                            David Lee left in 2008 (OK, he was 'technically' there in early 2009, but more as Exec Chef than actually cooking) - and the entire format changed shortly after - if you can check back you'll find prices before that were substantially higher - the recession slammed higher end places in Toronto.

                                            They've only recently re-introduced tasting menus but the ones I've had were extremely sophisticated - textures, aromatics and flavours all in balance and precise. I have to assume this was an off-night for the restaurant (or your recollections were a little on the rosy side).

                                            Have to agree with you on the Carpano Antico - it's super-trendy - but I don't get it either!

                                            Last time I was there (and 2 out of the last 3) I 'complained' that portion sizes were too large! But maybe they gave too much weight to my comments!

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