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chloehk May 29, 2012 07:29 PM

Best of Paris for <65 E/person -- staying in 14th

Hi there,

My partner and I will be in Paris from July 21-Aug 4, staying close to the Mouton-Duvernet Metro.

Our tastes are thus...

I don't like molecular cuisine. Potato foam for dessert, deconstructed xiao long bao, etc., are not for me. I do, however, like creative food that is intended as nourishment for human bodies. I love bistro food, trattoria food, and almost every kind of Asian food (except for Thai food). I love Indian/Pakistani, Ethiopian, Moroccan, Lebanese, Portuguese, and Filipino food. I love comfort food, as well as raw and fresh, healthy food. My weakness is bakeries, especially good bread.

My partner likes to sit on a comfortable chair and be treated respectfully by restaurant employees. He is very sensitive to the issue of value and doesn't like to spend $$$$ on the environment (one of his least favorite meals was Petrus in HK, most favorite was The Tippling Club in Singapore). He loves pork, veal, lamb, chicken, duck (!!), and only some kinds of fish -- seared/raw tuna, octopus, cuttlefish, squid...but he won't eat any other fish and does not like very soft textures.

My general strategy in Paris is to aim for a combo of French-Japanese fusion, new bistronomique joints, and traditional bistros, staying away from places that specialize in fish. I'd like to aim for dinners at generally 65 E/person, but we may stray from that once or twice.

Here's my short list of restaurants -- Which of these has the best food in your opinion? Are there others better? Is any particularly unsuitable?

Chez Paul
Dominique Bouchet
Kei
L’Ami Jean
Le Bal Café
Le Baratin
Le Gaigne
Le Pantruche
Le Restaurant
Les Botanistes
Les Cocottes de Constant
Les Papilles
Pramil
Sola

Also, some crepes places that look divine:

La Creperie de Josselin
Breizh Cafe
Crepperie Breton

And some amazing bakeries:

Ble Sucre
Du Pain et Des Idees
Gontran Cherrier
Hugo & Victor
La Patisserie du Reves

Any general feedback would be much appreciated. Also, for those restaurants that I cannot reserve online -- what time of day/day of the week is best to call?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

  1. k
    karina_h May 30, 2012 10:34 PM

    I'd like to suggest Pierre Hermé to be added to the Iist of pâtisseries. I know, I know - how pedestrian! But seriously, his Tarte Infiniment Vanille and Tarte Fine Porcelana were some of the best sweets I had all trip long, along with the Cylan from La Pâtisserie des Rêves (and their Gran Cru wasn't bad either).

    1. PBSF May 30, 2012 06:54 AM

      In the 14e near where you are staying:
      Pastries: Dominique Saibron on Ave. du Gen LeClerc near Alesia Metro Stop
      Breads: Moisan on the beginning of Gen LeClerc near Denfert Rochereau

      1 Reply
      1. re: PBSF
        p
        plafield May 30, 2012 11:53 AM

        For amazing pastries, Cafe Pouchkine, located on the first floor inside Printemps. Go when they open at 9:30 AM to avoid crowds. Amazing viennoiserie as well as the most gorgeous and scrumptious fancy pastry.

        Un Dimanche a Paris also has great pastry and lovely salon to sit and enjoy with coffee, tea or hot chocolate.

      2. e
        ebell10 May 30, 2012 12:58 AM

        Another bakery would be Poilane. I know its been around forever, but their miche poilane is still wonderful. And there are free cookies! Bistro wise, I'd add in Septime, especially for lunch (26E) which I think is a real bargain. Le Cambodge in the 10th has good bobun, although I've never really had anything else there.

        Do you like wine bars? I find the staff there to generally be nicer than anywhere else. Le Baron Rouge, Le Verre Volé, Au Passage, etc. The 14th is a tough area for food and you'll likely be spending a lot of time outside of it.

        Reservations are hard to come by sometimes. Call around 6. That seems to be when I have the most luck. They don't take reservations through voicemail and sometimes it takes a few times. I think I called Au Passage 5 times to get a reservation for a Wednesday. Good luck and enjoy Paris!

        3 Replies
        1. re: ebell10
          Delucacheesemonger May 30, 2012 02:17 AM

          Actually over the last 2-3 years, their miche has changed a lot. Now quite soft, with little chew to the crust, seems like a lot more white flour in the mix. Had one a few days ago and almost tasted American, and not in a good way.

          1. re: Delucacheesemonger
            e
            ebell10 May 30, 2012 02:35 AM

            I've been getting it all year from the shop in the 3rd and haven't had any problems. Sometimes its better than others, but you can't beat it toasted with salted butter. If Du Pain and Des Idées bread came at the same price though, I don't think I'd ever leave their shop.

          2. re: ebell10
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            chloehk May 30, 2012 06:43 AM

            I do like wine bars -- Au Passage was on my longer list, so I'll bump it up and check out the others as well.

            Sounds like it may be some work getting us booked all the places we want to go.

          3. Delucacheesemonger May 29, 2012 11:48 PM

            For bakeries add:

            Rodolphe Landemaine on Rue Roquette
            Mayer on Rue Theatre
            Bosson on Ave Blanqui
            Grenier du Pain on Rue Abbesses

            1 Reply
            1. re: Delucacheesemonger
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              chloehk May 30, 2012 06:42 AM

              Oh yum, thank you.

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