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May 29, 2012 10:06 AM

trastavere with kids?

Hi everyone,

We will be spending a week in Rome in June with our two kids, ages 8 and 11. We'll be in Trastavere, on via della Luce and doing the usual tourist sites. I know we are down the street from a great bakery (Biscottificio Artigiano Innocenti) so I'm pretty psyched about that.

I'm completely overwhelmed at this point with the many options for dining-so if anyone has suggestions for reasonably priced kid friendly (faster service is key here, if that is possible) in Trastavere, I'd be very grateful.

So far, I'm thinking:

Osteria Fernanda (might be too fancy with kids?)
Nonna Betta (I know, in the Ghetto, not Trastavere)
Antic Trattoria da Carlone
Da Poeta

Also, if anyone has good suggestions for food shopping-that would be great too.

many thanks in advance.

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  1. Julia,
    Are you staying in a hotel or an apartment? (The latter is my recommendation with kids.) At the risk of repeating myself, what I have found worked best for us when our kids were that age was the following formula: (1) rent an apartment, so you have more space and don't always need to eat out; (2) have your main meal at lunchtime; and (3) cook dinner at "home," or take advantage of great takeout opportunities.

    As a general rule, "fast" is not really an option except with pizza by the slice or similar foods you eat on the run. Depending on the weather, don't overlook picnic opportunities.

    With a bit more info, you'll get some good recommendations.

    1. We are staying in an apartment, which is what we always try to do. We typically eat something light for lunch, often a picnic, and then have dinner out. I personally hate cooking on vacation, so try to avoid if at all possible.

      Looks like there is a good pizza place near us Pizzeria Ai Marmi, but I'd love recommendations for close to home type dinners. We are on the Via Della Luce, cross street is Via Dei Genova.


      1. 8 and 11 isnot that young, so i guess you will be alright in any place you fancy.
        Innocenti bakes only cookies and the like, you know, right? No breads etc. It is a very good bakery!
        Ai marmi is a fun place to go, esp with kids. Good pizza.
        Ost fernanda is a bit fancy, but if the kids behave minimally, you will be fine.
        Nonna betta is not too far away and is good for jewish roman specials.
        I detest dar poeta's pizza, but it has many lovers. Always a line, no reservations. Same for ai marmi, too, btw.
        There is a market on piazza san cosimato in the mornings where you can do food shopping. There are also delis etc around that square and its side streets. Don't miss the cheeses in the little shop on via san francesco di ripa. On same street, another nice pizzeria, ivo.
        If you and the kids like fish, la gensola is close to your apartment.
        There is a little, modern place on your street that i can't remember the name of, has a nice outside seating area, too, maybe that is a good option on a nice night...

        1. Great location! Although dangerously close to the Biscottificio!

          For pizza in Trastevere there is Ai Marmi, but I also love Ivo's, which is where a lot of locals go and a bit off the radar.

          In the Ghetto I prefer Gigetto to Nonna Betta. Besides the food being better at Gigetto, Nonna Betta is Kosher, and so there is an entire range of Roman dishes that you won't get to try. And as far as being with kids, sitting outside at Gigetto they can get up and walk around if they get antsy.

          Since you have an apt take out is always a great option. Stop by the Roscioli Bakery and go to the 'back' room where they have a fantastic spread of prepared foods at both lunch and dinner time. It's also a good place to get food for a picnic or a quick lunch at their counter. And the kids can have a slice of pizza if they feel like it.

          Another great source of take out is the bakery Campo de' Fiori. Not only in the bakery proper, but in their store across the street, they prepare and sell delicious rustic tarts.

          I'm not sure when it gets going, but I think by the end of June the festival along the banks of the Tiber Island should get going. And that's always a fun place to eat, especially with kids. The restaurants themselves change each year, but there is usually at least one pizzeria.

          6 Replies
          1. re: minchilli

            Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. I definitely feel a bit more prepared now, and even more excited than before.

            1. re: juliacr

              A couple of places that we've always found to be kid-friendly are Armando al Pantheon (location obvious) and Hostaria da Nerone (near the Coliseum). Besides, your kids are older, so that gives you more choices that might not be suitable for infants and toddlers.

              1. re: lisaonthecape

                They and you might also like Sora Margherita (lunch only) in the ghetto. Fun and well priced.
                Antica Caciara Trasteverina is a salumeria and cheese store (I think mentioned above) on Via San Francesco a Ripa 140 which also has excellent country bread, olive oils and a very nice welcome along with a fine pecorino romano. There is also a big supermarket (the name of which escapes me) in a supermarket basement close to there which will be a good resource for you

                1. re: jen kalb

                  I'm not sure I agree about Sora Margherita. While I love it, it is a bit claustrophobic, and it is very difficult to get out once you are seated. I think the best bet with kids is always going to be a place where you can sit outside if possible, and where the kids can wander (not far) safely.

                  1. re: minchilli

                    well, my kids loved it, they were a bit older but still, 8 and 11 should be able to sit through a not-long meal

                  2. re: jen kalb

                    Yes, There is a billa supermarket at the basement of the coin department store.

            2. Thanks so much everyone. I'm always appreciative of the generous expertise on chowhound. Now with recommendations for pizza and good bread, we have filled two of our top food groups. Any gelato recommendations nearby? Thanks!

              1 Reply
              1. re: juliacr

                Filer de Luna (sp) is a great option right in trastevere and I'm a big fan.