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May 28, 2012 03:43 PM

Looking for authentic dinner experience in Lyon

My husband and I will be visiting Lyon for the first time in a few weeks. We are looking for dinner recommendations that are typical of local cuisine. It does not need to be fancy; it is just some place a local would enjoy.

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  1. A Bouchon Lyonnais is the local tradition. We ate at Chez Hugon .. a very basic and traditional venue. Compact, simple and very friendly. We started with lentils & sausage, and then ate the traditional chicken with vinegar, veal tongue & the quenelle. Desert was a tasty taste tatin .. a heavy meal but typically Lyonnais.

    1 Reply
    1. re: condor

      I've had several good meals at Chez Hugon over the years. It's worth experiencing just to see Madame in full flight: working the room, talking to every table, and doing the cooking in her open-view closet sized kitchen

    2. < a heavy meal but typically Lyonnais.> Actually, most Lyonnais don't eat heavy meals any more. There are many modern restaurants and the Lyonnais I know prefer them, or lighter versions of their traditional cuisine.

      That said, I would recommend a "traditional" meal while you are in Lyon, but don't miss what the younger chefs are doing, either.

      1 Reply
      1. re: ChefJune

        I agree with ChefJune. You don't say how long you will be staying, but if you like the heavier and more unusual French cuisine, you should try a bouchon, but also there are many new chefs serving their take on modern classics, in a convivial surrounding.

        A new restaurant that is garnering a lot of local press and interest is Palégrié, on the Presqu'île, but you absolutely need to book. It serves typical local dishes with a new spin.
        Additionally another very new restaurant is Flair; fusion cuisine, which Christian Tetedoie has an interest in.
        This is situated close to Perrache station.

        If you search this forum you'll see lots of suggestions and recommendations.

      2. We went to Bouchon Remerciere for our old-school Bouchon experience and really enjoyed it. Very charming in it's age (definitely check out the bathroom upstairs) and the food was reasonably priced and delicious. I would recommend doing a Bouchon for lunch so you have time to walk off all that food. After lunch we walked up to the cathedral up on the hill and still had plenty of energy to spare!

        7 Replies
        1. re: Klunco

          Klunco: You WALKED up to Fourviere? Wow! I bow to your endurance. I've never met anyone who walked up there. By the time you did that, you could have tackled another bouchon meal! ;)

          I am looking forward to trying Chef Matthieu Viannay's updated classics at her new version of La Mere Brazier in the fall.

          1. re: ChefJune

            We live in a city and walk everywhere and are what I would call serious walkers (often we'll walk 12 or 15 miles on a Saturday all around the city). That said, I think we did that walk more out of tourist ignorance and I do remember my thighs feeling the burn towards the end. I wouldn't necessarily recommend the experience, haha.

            The view was worth it though! I look forward to returning to Lyon now that we have Chow to provide good recs.

            1. re: Klunco

              next time, take the funicular! ;)

              The first time I visited Lyon 20 years ago, there weren't too many good places to eat in Vieux Lyon. that seems to be changing, along with their shedding of so much heavy food.

          2. re: Klunco

            Do you mean Bouchon Mercière in rue Mercière? If so, that is one of the only restaurants on that street that are not overly touristy, serving good food. (I'm not sure I know of Remerciere).

            That hill is a beast to climb; well done! It's not bad in the fall but it can be brutal in high summer!

            1. re: EatDrinkLyon

              It was Bouchon Merciere, I'm not sure where I got the RE, maybe because I was thinking it was on Rue Merciere. We enjoyed it and with Beaujolais being some of my favorite wine regions, the wine list was a treat like most of the places we went in Lyon.

              Rue Merciere is definitely touristy, and despite normally being turned off by obvious "tourist-trap" type restaurants, I really wanted to eat at one of Bouchons on the street and Merciere was recommended by the gentleman at the office du tourisme. With the TGV ride being so easy from Aix (where we stay annually), I know we'll definitely be back to Lyon armed ahead (this time) with great suggestions.

              1. re: Klunco

                Thanks for you responses. We will be in Lyon later this week. I will let you know how it goes.

                1. re: freesnack

                  Try :Le Bouchon des Filles...traditional bouchon with a modern twist. Friendly, great food, not too touristy, not too pricey. A great find in Lyon...